Intruder

I LOVE the sound of this sub. I'd love to replicate its sound in my car... I've had this setup for two years and I'm still loving it... Too bad Klipsch doesn't make car-audio.




AMPLIFIER:
Digital/Linear A/B amplifier; discrete MOSFET output power section

FTC Rated Subwoofer: 50 watts @ ¡Ü 7% THD, 40 - 100 Hz Max Burst Power*: 200 watts @ ¡Ü 1% THD

Subwoofer: Side-firing 6.5" (16.51cm) long-throw driver

asylum24

Well im not sure by your term crunch but I listen to a lot of classic rock and even heavy and it sounds really good.... the bass drum you can feel it and just pops out at you instead of like punching you in the gut... and since the freq. is higher on the type R, it does help in mid bass.... also the SUB-W does control something I cant remember(never mess with it much) to an extent....and it just runs through the RCA cables... theres an accessorie you can buy for alpine amps that is like the RF Gain remote thing except its electrical and has an lcd and buttons that you can control multiple amps at the same time or each one at a time.... it controls gain, X-Over... and all that other cool stuff that is usually only found on the amp itself.... those controls are still on the amp too it just makes it so yo ucan adjust it more acuratly since your adjusting it to the sound of your ear from where you are going tobe sitting... and you dont have to get out of the car... htere is a cable on teh back of the HU for an input called the AL(or is AI... cant remember for sure) input.. yo uhvae to get a $20 cable but I use it to plug my laptop into it(ha no 4" inch LCD for me... beat 16"!) and watch movies and play my guitar in my car.....

Intruder

I see now...

There's no need to worry about the crunch not being played by the sub. I think the lowest freq. of the "crunch" I refer to is about 1KHz (guitar's low end), maybe even higher. So, we'll leave it at that...

Man, I'm confused.
EDesign K-series DVC sub it is, but 10" or 12"...
Also, should I go for the Alpine M500 or the Avionixx... I have no idea what I'm gaining if I keep it all Alpine (except the sub).

So, why would I want to have a sealed box? Just to save space? A box with a hole (like my Klipsch subwoofer) would sound better if everything else is the same (driver size, amp wattage, etc..), is it?

Intruder

I think that would be my choice, but why not just a circular hole? Why the need for those extra barriers in there?

EDIT: I think I get it.. "effective vent lenght..." Why is a longer vent better? I hope I'm not asking too many questions. Also, blue LEDz, what would YOU change to make that box better?

Intruder

Ooookay, now all I have to know is wether the alpine amp and HU really have a way of interaction. If not I'll go with the Avionixx amp...

I was planning on installing a DIY ground-wire kit anyway. It's just that I have so many other projects going on in the same time.

How much would it cost me to build that box? Where's the best place to get the materials? I know Home Depot isn't the cheapest... Any suggestions? What type of wood do you use? Where can I get carpet that could match my trunk's carpet?

Thank youuu!

MisterT

Use MDF <medium density fiber board> for your box if you plan on making it. You can buy carpet at a local stereo shop or order it on Crutchfield's website. I bought my prefab box for $95 so I wouldn't have to **** with making one. You can see it on SoundDomain's website or click "www" below to get right to it. It's gray though and the trunk is black, but it's not too bad looking. I am going to have Blue build me a ported box in the near future I hope. When I built my amp rack, I ordered the carpet from Crutchfield. I could have gone to a local shop, but was lazy. Besides, I had so much to do up to that point, I figured <and it did> it would sit around until the amps were wired and ready for mounting.

Mister T

MisterT

Hey Blue, how come people don't use Isobaric designs any more (the push/pull configuration). Also, I don't see any more aperiodic membranes neither (where the sub isn't in a box and fires in to the membrane). "Insane in tha membrane, insane in tha brain..." Okay I am retarded

Mister T

Intruder

cypress hill is tight yo

btw, your box looks BIG! what's the size? is it bigger than the vented box for a single 12"K?

MisterT

All the bass and half the space was Kicker's slogan, but that was when the solobarics came out (not to be confused with isobarics). In that case I see why they weren't a great set up. An installer who did the system in my old Eclipse was going to use the SoundStream 6.0 to drive 4 DVC subs via solobaric. That would have been really loud, but quite a load (planned on dropping it to a 1/2 ohm which the amp is capable of handling). Can you imagine the headlights dimming from the amount of current from 4 DVC subs?! I learned a lot from working there and reading Car Audio mags every month. It has been so long since I have been out of touch with car audio. Hell, the equipment I have in my car now is pretty old and has been collecting dust for 2 years before installing it. It was just ashamed to let it collect more dust so I decided on installing it myself. I have to admit that I am much better than before as far as spending hundreds, even thousands of dollars on car audio. I ate, slept, and thought nothing but car audio! Sound familiar guys?! I am a recovering Audiophile Addict <AA> and am relapsing.

Mister T

demoninvictus

no reply on box design, sorry, still sophmoric about that idea, but as far as alpines bass controls, your headunit has subwoofer preouts, you run the pre-outs to your subwoofer amp and it will give you a scale from 0 to 15 or so where you can adjust the loudness of the sub. this way, you can turn your gains all the way up and then change your sub levels at the head unit. plus, it should enable you to set a low pass crossover, where the headunit will trim out sounds above a certain frequency. there are alot more options that i'm not thinking of, like my 7894 also allows me to change the apparent direction the sub is firing as well... kind of like reversing the sub or something, i still have yet to read on it thoroughly. the single voice coil 12 from edesigns and a tsunami db-1100 amp will push out some serious bass for your music, the dual voice coil sub would hit even harder, just keep in mind, if metallica is mostly the style of music that you are listening to, i'd recommend either just getting the single voice coil, or if you just want to keep that extra thump in hand just incase you want to show off a little, get the dvc sub and turn your gains to a modest listening level. personally, i'm going to make the move to a tsunami db-1100 and 2 e10k subs from edesign... so we should all get a GREAT idea of what these subs sound like, they're no bullshit, no nonsense subs designed to perform and ****, the subs come with a 3 year warranty from manufacturers defects. thats 2 more years than MOST manufacturers on the market. plus blowing your sub, fret not, dish out half of what you paid for the sub and you can get a rebuild directly from them. these guys aren't trying to build a reputation to sell to the masses, not many people have heard of these guys, hence the want for me to get ahold of some of these puppies. be careful however, the tsunami amp from e-designs does NOT come with a warranty longer than 30 days from what i recollect. if you're terribly concerned about warranties, there is always the axt 800.2 by edesigns as well AND is a DIGITAL amp, so it's extremely efficient... if that seems to be any of your concern. hope this helps and doesn't confuse you more, but just keeping an eye out for you and feeding you what you should be aware of.
peace bro

Intruder

Allright, I'm off to the local Home Depot and this is my shopping list:

- a sheet of 3/4" MDF
- 2 tubes of "liquid nails"
- drywall screws - 1 1/2" - flat heads

I don't have a belt sander, but I have plenty of sand paper!

Intruder

oh no, I used the wrong term...

I was going to buy phillips screws anyway, but when I said "flat head" I meant... the ones that are not oval... I don't know how they're called.... countersink or whatever.

the ones that will be flush with the surface when in place - not sticking out...

MisterT

Hey blue, just don't Bondo yours or you will never be able to get to your sub again (unless with a sledge hammer).

mister T

Intruder

I got the glue and screws from Home Depot, and the MDF from Lowe's (Home Depot had 5/8" MDF). I CUT the boards required for one box! This means I can start building the enclosure. I did cut some material for a second box, but I need more MDF. So, from two sheets of MDF I can build 3 enclosures. One sheet is not enough for two enclosures.

Now I gotta figure out a way to cut the circle in one of the boards. Any advise on that one?

Can I bring it to Home Depot and have it cut there? I know they can cut straight lines, but what about curves and circles?

Intruder

I have a compass, and I have an electric jig saw... but I was hoping that someone could do it fast and easy for me.