rworrell

Yes, I was really excited to win at $183. Seems like you have a lot of amps in your setup...

Questions:

1) Why 6.5" in the fronts instead of 5x7/6x8? And components--did you mount the tweeters in the sail panels? I've read concerns that that mounting point is too high for a proper tweeter installation. How hard was it to install 6.5s in that location?

2) You have both mid-bass speakers and two 10" subs? Isn't that a lot of bass?

3) Lanzar Vibe 428 4 channel amp--does that have speaker-level inputs? Also, is it like SirNuke's V-power amp: 4 channels plus a sub channel?

I was leaning towards the Infinity Kappa 5x7s (572.5CF, $85 at ike's) for the front, and a 4-channel amp to drive the fronts and rears and leave the factory sub running off of the HU.

I read DaleK's posts, but my wife quickly put the kibosh on mounting a sub under "her" seat. So, unless someone has figured out how to mount a sub under the trunk floor, it looks like the factory unit is my best bet. You know, a lot of the Miata guys remove their mini-spares altogether and rely on a can of Fix-A-Flat. With our standard roadside assistance, maybe that entire well could be used for a sub enclosure... Nah, I'm not the kind to run without a spare. The spare is (as DaleK speculated) mounted upside down from earlier P5's (at least, as I read his post). The convex portion of the wheel is facing downward and the concave portion is the cup into which the factory sub is placed.

I think I will be happy overall with my less-involved setup. Those Kappas are the fullest sounding speakers I've ever heard. They were clearly, head-and-shoulders better than any others in the store. I had my back to the salesman at the switching board, and I could tell every time when he had switched to the Kappas. I was comparing them to the 5x7 References and 5x7 Bostons.

I don't want to waste money, but I also don't want to lock myself out of any future upgrades, either. That's why I'm leaning toward a 4-channel (or 4+1) amp, so I could add a sub in the future or better rear speakers and not have handicapped myself with my amp choice.

hihoslva

I chose 6.5's because I wanted a component system. I do know that there are now several component sets that use a 5x7/6x8 woofer and separate tweeter (Infinity References being one of them!! http://www.crutchfield.com/S-DIpXJcU...sp?i=1086800CS ). Some people feel that round speakers are more "accurate" than ovals - I'm not necessarily one of them, as I'm not sure about it. Basically, this is my second set of Reference components. I liked them before, tried other things in the meantime (I damaged the woofers on my old set - not from power but from poor install), but now I'm back to them.

I mounted my tweeters "next to" the woofers.

In a previous install, I had add-on type tweeters that I did mount in the sail panels, and I agree - it's not the best location. Just my opinion, but they are too far from the woofer, and too close to my ears.

Installing 6.5s is simple. You can use a commercially available plastic adapter plate, or make your own - I chose to make my own out of MDF - it's supposed ot have better sonic qualities. I would think that using the plastic would be just fine though, especailly with a little sound deadening around the adapter. Just to reduce the resonance of the metal door panel.

And FYI - there is a lot of room in our doors, and I was able to mount the crossovers right inside the door:

This made wiring easier, as I did not have to run any new wires through the door jamb.

Quote:

2) You have both mid-bass speakers and two 10" subs? Isn't that a lot of bass?

Depends on who you ask . The Infinity references are a bit lacking in the bottom end. Just the nature of that line of speakers. The subs handle frequencies from 80 Hz and down. Since the Infinitys don't have a great low-end, I wanted something to fill in the gap between the sub and the front stage. I don't have it set up the way I'd like it just yet, but the Peerless should be able to take up the slack. Also - the rear doors in the P5 are such a poor location. They are blcoked by the seats, and just don't sound that great. Plus, rear speakers have a tendency to "pull" the sound rearward, whcih is not what I wanted. So I figured the best way to utilize the location would be for lower end frequencies, which are less directional than midrange and high stuff. I think it's going to work very nicely once I get things adjusted properly. As far as a "lot" of bass - the Peerless will act more as fill. My goal would really be that a listener would not even know they were there. You'll know I have subs, and obviously front speakers - but hopefully the Peerless will blend into the mix and provide good fill from about 80 to about 400 Hz. So nah - they are not "real" bass speakers, so the bass is not too much.

Quote:

3) Lanzar Vibe 428 4 channel amp--does that have speaker-level inputs? Also, is it like SirNuke's V-power amp: 4 channels plus a sub channel?

The Lanzar Vibe (Viberant line that I have) does not have speaker level inputs. To use an amp like this, you would need a line-level converter (line-out convereter, or LOC), to convert the speaker signals to RCA low voltage signals. They are not very expensive, and there are plenty of high-quality models out there. I believe Sir Nuke's amp(s) does have speaker level connections. Some amps do, some amps don't. But you can use either type, you'd just need the LOC for amps that don't have speaker-level inputs.

Quote:

I was leaning towards the Infinity Kappa 5x7s (572.5CF, $85 at ike's) for the front, and a 4-channel amp to drive the fronts and rears and leave the factory sub running off of the HU.....

....I don't want to waste money, but I also don't want to lock myself out of any future upgrades, either. That's why I'm leaning toward a 4-channel (or 4+1) amp, so I could add a sub in the future or better rear speakers and not have handicapped myself with my amp choice.

You could add a sub even with just a 4-channel amp. If you decide to upgrade in the future, you can simply bridge the rear channels of the amp to a sub, and leave the rear speakers off or running from deck power. I would suggest buying as much power as you can afford. This will give you headroom for future upgrades without buying yet another amp.

~HH

rworrell

HiHo--thanks for spending so much time on this with me. I think I'm close to done, but one more question:

The Kappas have a directional center tweeter--wouldn't that provide pretty much the same "aimability" as mounting components with the tweeters "next to" the woofers, as you said?

OK, I lied: two questions:

I'm off to look for a 4-channel amp with speaker level inputs (I know I could use LOCs, but I still believe that an amp with quality inputs (like Alpine) will give me less noise off of the HU) to run the Kappas in the front and the stock speakers in the rear, but reserving the option to change in the future to running the Kappas and a sub--how much power do I need?

Thanks.

DaleK

If you go with a 4 channel amp, getting one with a line out would allow you to add a sub amp and keep amplification for all 4 door speaker sets.

For power, it depends a lot on what your listening preferences are, and what the speaker requirements are. he speaker sensitivity can be a good indication of how a speaker will run off deck power, but component sets sometimes need more.

If it was me, running an Infinity Kappa front stage (I have looked at these as being a likely upgrade path from the wonderful stock speakers btw, I haven't mainly because future crap is the only Infinity retailer here, and they don't carry the exact model I want, and I will typically NOT buy a speaker without listening to it), I would go with 50-75 watts RMS per channel. Bridging this can be a good amount for a lot of subs (usually bridging a good amp will more than double your power as the impedance is halfed typically). I have a 35 W per channel Alpine V12 amp that is enough for any listening that I do with the door speakers (plus I used to run an MB Quart coax component set off it previously. They like a lot of power, and sounded really good off this amp).

So there you go, more options than answers I am sure

Don't forget the idea of a custom fiberglass sub enclosure if the factory setup turns out to be too little for you HiHo would be proud.

Dale.

hihoslva

Not a problem.

Quote:

The Kappas have a directional center tweeter--wouldn't that provide pretty much the same "aimability" as mounting components with the tweeters "next to" the woofers, as you said?

Absolutely. Probably the next best thing to a component set (and the flexibility in positioning and mounting that this provides) is a coax with an aimable tweeter. It's a good choice, especially since these are the speakers YOU like! That's what counts!

Quote:

I'm off to look for a 4-channel amp with speaker level inputs (I know I could use LOCs, but I still believe that an amp with quality inputs (like Alpine) will give me less noise off of the HU) to run the Kappas in the front and the stock speakers in the rear, but reserving the option to change in the future to running the Kappas and a sub--how much power do I need?

Since the Kappas handle up to 100 watts RMS each, I would shoot for that. If it's not in the budget, lower wattages are fine. The object is not to overdrive the amp. So - for example - a 200 watt per channel amp (twice the power you need), with the gains nice and low, would be better than a 75 watt amp with the gains maxxed out. It's like driving - if your goal is to go from 0 to 60 in 8 seconds, it's much less taxing to the car to do that in a Corvette versus a Protege. Similarly with amps - the less you push the limits with them, the better your sound will be, and the longer your speakers will last. The best way to get 100 clean watts per channel is to buy 125 - know what I mean? Buying less than 100 watts per channel is not a problem, but you can't crank any amp to the max gain level. Use your head, and even something like 50-75 watts per channel will sound excellent. I think the Alpines are probably a great choice, if not a little expensive. But that's okay - the end result should be that YOU are happy!

Also keep in mind the possibility of the add-on sub later. You might never get one, but having the power to run something solid is not a bad thing. Rule of thumb is to buy as much power as you can afford.

Just be judicious in your power applied to the rear speakers - they will not take 100 watts (or even 50, I would assume) each for very long! Keep those gains turned way down, or the sound faded more to the fronts with the deck to avoid frying them in short order.

Again - no problem with all the questions. When someone takes the time to research and really tries to understand the info and feedback they receive (such as yourself), it makes helping out a pleasure. It's the morons who get on your nerves after a while....

~HH

rworrell

Well, I think I'm ready with my final shopping list. Opinions?

1) Infinity KAPPA 572.5CF 5x7s for the fronts - $85 @ ikesound

2) Alpine MRP-F240 4-channel amp (40 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms, 50 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms, 100 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms) $152 @ ikesound

3) Factory HU with 6-disc & cassette - $183 @ ebay

4) 300-watt Amp Installation Kit

Anything else I haven't thought of, or suggested replacements? What about the amp kit? That's the cheapest they have but it says 300-watt. Should I go for Rockford Fosgate RP1620-C instead? It's only $13 more, but I don't know if it makes a difference or if you're just paying for the RF name.

Almost done here!

Dave Cameron

The guys on the board have done a great job helping out here! You have been very well served, and your shopping list looks great! For wiring the standard kit will do just fine, the extra money is purely for the name in this instance. You should end up with a great system! I look forward to reading how it turns out.
Bravo to one and all in this thread, this is the way it should be on boards!!