Does Sound Deadening Material suck???
April-16th-2002, 09:30 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: IA
Posts: 250
Does Sound Deadening Material suck???
Well....... by recomendation i got some B-Quiet sound deadening material for my trunk lid. It was said to be just as good as Dynamat but a little cheaper in price. I rolled it on and also used a hair dryer before the install. I have a Black Mica prot. and after a couple of 85-90 degree days the CRAP fell off my trunk lid. The stuff is still real sticky so i put it back up. It fell off once again the next day. It's the extreme stuff so it was said to have a better adhesive than the original....... so better for trunk lids......... NOT! I am ticked cuz I spent $40 for the roll. Anyone else have this problem???????
I thought the heat activated the adhesive. So why is the stuff falling off? I do have a couple layers on there but they recommend that for more deadening.
I thought the heat activated the adhesive. So why is the stuff falling off? I do have a couple layers on there but they recommend that for more deadening.
April-17th-2002, 06:51 AM
#2
**Punani Lover**
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Hawaii (duh!)
Posts: 1,861
dude, sorry about that. sometimes the cheaper stuff ends up costing you more in the long run. i haven't sound-deadend my car yet, but i won't put anything in my car but good quality, proven stuff. just for the simple reason that i don't want to have to keep re-applying or get pissed cause it keeps falling off or whatever. and i'll have mine professionally done so that if anything sux, they have to fix it. yeah, it'll be some bones, but my p5 is worth it! 
April-17th-2002, 09:09 AM
#3
Protege God
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Chicago
Posts: 2,183
I would personally worry about the trunk lid last.......put some on all doors..........everywhere around the trunk........on the main floor of the car, and then worry about the trunk lid..........
maybe it falls off because you heated it up ?
did it say to do so?
clean your trunk lid pretty well and glue the motherfu**er on if nothing else works
maybe it falls off because you heated it up ?
did it say to do so?
clean your trunk lid pretty well and glue the motherfu**er on if nothing else works
April-17th-2002, 05:22 PM
#4
Protege Owner
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Oklahoma City OK- where it is flat
Posts: 487
I have used both Dynamat and B-Quiet, and they are pretty much the same materials. The lighter weight materals that both offer are the best product for the trunk lid where they will out and out defyiing gravity.
Prep is the big thing with the stuff. Use rubbing alchol or acetone to clean the surfaces, I usually do an area twice. If it is a surface that won't be seen ever again, I have been know to rough the surface with light grit sandpaper to get below any possible clear coat finishes.
With trunk lids I have had the best sucess when I have removed the lid, and placed it on the gound to apply. If you can find it, 3M makes a pre applicatoin adhasive enhancer that can be applied, the stuff is included in most dash trim kits, but you can get a whole can of it. Try to do the install on a non humid day, temp over 75 but under 90.
Preheat the metal surface, and warm up the deadening materal both. A blow dryer may do, but I use a heatgun like one used for shrink fit tubing. How hot? Hot enough that you would burn your skin in naked to the heat for too long! I wear gloves. Apply small sections at a time, I cut up squares and apply it like a quilt. Then roll the living hell out of them with a solid wooden roller. Get all air out of the squares, knife them if you have to get the air out. Air is your enemy! It robs adhesion and surface area. It can also trap humidity, which is also you enemy in the installation of deadening.
I let it set for overnight, and lightly warm it and roll again.
For all that effort, how have my jobs held up? On floor and side walls close to 100%. Trunk lids are the hardest though, I have had about a 70% sucess rate on them. I have had one lid fall apart three times.
The heavy asphalt based deadening is not the stuff to use on the lid. Try the foil backed materal instead. The more layers, the more wieght, the more risk it will will fall off thanks to gravity.
Sorry to hear of your bad luck. Deadening helps a little with the sound floor, but only adds maybe 3db to interior sound. It can really add weight to the car, the SQ car I used to compete with had almost 300lbs of the stuff in it, over seven layers in areas when done.
Usually the whole car in pratice doen't really need the stuff. Right around the speakers, in trunk a bit if you have a sub, and anywhere you hear squeaks or noise when driving.
Really, the B-Quiet materals are fine, and match up to Dynamat just fine. Trunk lids are just a tough place to install.
Prep is the big thing with the stuff. Use rubbing alchol or acetone to clean the surfaces, I usually do an area twice. If it is a surface that won't be seen ever again, I have been know to rough the surface with light grit sandpaper to get below any possible clear coat finishes.
With trunk lids I have had the best sucess when I have removed the lid, and placed it on the gound to apply. If you can find it, 3M makes a pre applicatoin adhasive enhancer that can be applied, the stuff is included in most dash trim kits, but you can get a whole can of it. Try to do the install on a non humid day, temp over 75 but under 90.
Preheat the metal surface, and warm up the deadening materal both. A blow dryer may do, but I use a heatgun like one used for shrink fit tubing. How hot? Hot enough that you would burn your skin in naked to the heat for too long! I wear gloves. Apply small sections at a time, I cut up squares and apply it like a quilt. Then roll the living hell out of them with a solid wooden roller. Get all air out of the squares, knife them if you have to get the air out. Air is your enemy! It robs adhesion and surface area. It can also trap humidity, which is also you enemy in the installation of deadening.
I let it set for overnight, and lightly warm it and roll again.
For all that effort, how have my jobs held up? On floor and side walls close to 100%. Trunk lids are the hardest though, I have had about a 70% sucess rate on them. I have had one lid fall apart three times.
The heavy asphalt based deadening is not the stuff to use on the lid. Try the foil backed materal instead. The more layers, the more wieght, the more risk it will will fall off thanks to gravity.
Sorry to hear of your bad luck. Deadening helps a little with the sound floor, but only adds maybe 3db to interior sound. It can really add weight to the car, the SQ car I used to compete with had almost 300lbs of the stuff in it, over seven layers in areas when done.
Usually the whole car in pratice doen't really need the stuff. Right around the speakers, in trunk a bit if you have a sub, and anywhere you hear squeaks or noise when driving.
Really, the B-Quiet materals are fine, and match up to Dynamat just fine. Trunk lids are just a tough place to install.
April-17th-2002, 05:51 PM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Fenwick, Ontario
Posts: 270
Dave, those are excellent tips and I'm going to print off a copy of your post when my 50sf roll of b-quiet extreme arrives! (I got it for $100 canadian...group buys are good!)
Hopefully it will quelch the rattles from my 10W0's
Hopefully it will quelch the rattles from my 10W0's
April-17th-2002, 06:23 PM
#6
Ha-ho
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 166
Great post dave, thanks for the info! i too will use it when my time to sound deaden comes. Where did you put 7 layers on? How thick did it end up being?
Oh ya, and sorry if this has been asked before, but what are those words in your sig?
Thanks
Oh ya, and sorry if this has been asked before, but what are those words in your sig?
Thanks
April-19th-2002, 06:39 PM
#8
Protege God
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Evanston, IL
Posts: 1,525
That is accurate and excellent advice. Very similar method to mine. I would however, recommend the rubber roller instead of the wooden one. It's more flexible for rolling over uneven surfaces, which is important for getting all the air out. I ordered from B-Quiet also, but I went with Brown Bread instead of their brand. It's working great so far, even on the trunk lid. Using more than two layers of the adhesive backed asphalt or vinyl sound deadening sheet material, even aluminum covered sheet, isn't the best method for trouble areas. There are other thicker sound deadening materials for that purpose that aren't adhesive backed.
Originally posted by Dave Cameron
I have used both Dynamat and B-Quiet, and they are pretty much the same materials. The lighter weight materals that both offer are the best product for the trunk lid where they will out and out defyiing gravity.
Prep is the big thing with the stuff. Use rubbing alchol or acetone to clean the surfaces, I usually do an area twice. If it is a surface that won't be seen ever again, I have been know to rough the surface with light grit sandpaper to get below any possible clear coat finishes.
With trunk lids I have had the best sucess when I have removed the lid, and placed it on the gound to apply. If you can find it, 3M makes a pre applicatoin adhasive enhancer that can be applied, the stuff is included in most dash trim kits, but you can get a whole can of it. Try to do the install on a non humid day, temp over 75 but under 90.
Preheat the metal surface, and warm up the deadening materal both. A blow dryer may do, but I use a heatgun like one used for shrink fit tubing. How hot? Hot enough that you would burn your skin in naked to the heat for too long! I wear gloves. Apply small sections at a time, I cut up squares and apply it like a quilt. Then roll the living hell out of them with a solid wooden roller. Get all air out of the squares, knife them if you have to get the air out. Air is your enemy! It robs adhesion and surface area. It can also trap humidity, which is also you enemy in the installation of deadening.
I let it set for overnight, and lightly warm it and roll again.
For all that effort, how have my jobs held up? On floor and side walls close to 100%. Trunk lids are the hardest though, I have had about a 70% sucess rate on them. I have had one lid fall apart three times.
The heavy asphalt based deadening is not the stuff to use on the lid. Try the foil backed materal instead. The more layers, the more wieght, the more risk it will will fall off thanks to gravity.
Sorry to hear of your bad luck. Deadening helps a little with the sound floor, but only adds maybe 3db to interior sound. It can really add weight to the car, the SQ car I used to compete with had almost 300lbs of the stuff in it, over seven layers in areas when done.
Usually the whole car in pratice doen't really need the stuff. Right around the speakers, in trunk a bit if you have a sub, and anywhere you hear squeaks or noise when driving.
Really, the B-Quiet materals are fine, and match up to Dynamat just fine. Trunk lids are just a tough place to install.
I have used both Dynamat and B-Quiet, and they are pretty much the same materials. The lighter weight materals that both offer are the best product for the trunk lid where they will out and out defyiing gravity.
Prep is the big thing with the stuff. Use rubbing alchol or acetone to clean the surfaces, I usually do an area twice. If it is a surface that won't be seen ever again, I have been know to rough the surface with light grit sandpaper to get below any possible clear coat finishes.
With trunk lids I have had the best sucess when I have removed the lid, and placed it on the gound to apply. If you can find it, 3M makes a pre applicatoin adhasive enhancer that can be applied, the stuff is included in most dash trim kits, but you can get a whole can of it. Try to do the install on a non humid day, temp over 75 but under 90.
Preheat the metal surface, and warm up the deadening materal both. A blow dryer may do, but I use a heatgun like one used for shrink fit tubing. How hot? Hot enough that you would burn your skin in naked to the heat for too long! I wear gloves. Apply small sections at a time, I cut up squares and apply it like a quilt. Then roll the living hell out of them with a solid wooden roller. Get all air out of the squares, knife them if you have to get the air out. Air is your enemy! It robs adhesion and surface area. It can also trap humidity, which is also you enemy in the installation of deadening.
I let it set for overnight, and lightly warm it and roll again.
For all that effort, how have my jobs held up? On floor and side walls close to 100%. Trunk lids are the hardest though, I have had about a 70% sucess rate on them. I have had one lid fall apart three times.
The heavy asphalt based deadening is not the stuff to use on the lid. Try the foil backed materal instead. The more layers, the more wieght, the more risk it will will fall off thanks to gravity.
Sorry to hear of your bad luck. Deadening helps a little with the sound floor, but only adds maybe 3db to interior sound. It can really add weight to the car, the SQ car I used to compete with had almost 300lbs of the stuff in it, over seven layers in areas when done.
Usually the whole car in pratice doen't really need the stuff. Right around the speakers, in trunk a bit if you have a sub, and anywhere you hear squeaks or noise when driving.
Really, the B-Quiet materals are fine, and match up to Dynamat just fine. Trunk lids are just a tough place to install.
April-23rd-2002, 05:59 PM
#9
Protege Owner
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Oklahoma City OK- where it is flat
Posts: 487
One more trick- get construction aerosol injectable foam and use it in all metal panels, reenforcing beams, framing etc. that you can get a reach into. It will do as much if not more than the deadening to help dampen sound in a trunk lid. It also helps the lid to feel much more substantial when opening or closing. IF deadiening is done right, the boot will give a nice thud when closing, and just the click of the key when opening.
Eric- I have used both the rubber and the wood rollers, and it seems to be a matter of preferece to me. You are right on that is if a little more flexable in odd angles. I like the wood because I can really bare down on it hard. I generally go angle by angle on uneven surfaces, applying really hard pressure onvery small areas at a time, starting at the inside most region of the deadening material piece I am working with at the time and then work my way slowly to the outside of the piece.
Brown Bread is good stuff! I am using thier newest product these days, B-quiet lite. Really nice, and it would be ideal of trunk lids in my mind.
My project these days is my wifes Toyota to reduce road noise and a few squeaks. Quiet ride can add to sales value, and the Corolla will be up for sale sometime this summer after the new Sentra SpecV arrives. In the meantime, she likes less noise.
Eric- I have used both the rubber and the wood rollers, and it seems to be a matter of preferece to me. You are right on that is if a little more flexable in odd angles. I like the wood because I can really bare down on it hard. I generally go angle by angle on uneven surfaces, applying really hard pressure onvery small areas at a time, starting at the inside most region of the deadening material piece I am working with at the time and then work my way slowly to the outside of the piece.
Brown Bread is good stuff! I am using thier newest product these days, B-quiet lite. Really nice, and it would be ideal of trunk lids in my mind.
My project these days is my wifes Toyota to reduce road noise and a few squeaks. Quiet ride can add to sales value, and the Corolla will be up for sale sometime this summer after the new Sentra SpecV arrives. In the meantime, she likes less noise.
April-27th-2002, 11:17 AM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Huntington Beach, CA Uhhh Surfs up Dude
Posts: 2,367
Yes, great post Dave. Anytime any adhesive product is to be applied, rubbing alcohol should be used.
i actually used the cheapest crap i could get ahold of in an hour....it stuck better to the trunk lid than the doors but it's never peeled much and works fine. Cost me less than $100 for enough for 2 entire cars!!!
i actually used the cheapest crap i could get ahold of in an hour....it stuck better to the trunk lid than the doors
but it's never peeled much and works fine. Cost me less than $100 for enough for 2 entire cars!!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Scott Clarke
3rd Gen Protege/MazdaSpeed/P5/MP3
4
February-7th-2007 11:43 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)