SHRED=SHiny+RED

Has anyone tried applying them throughout the interior of your car? I understand that the reason for using products like Dynamat and B-quiet's Brownbread is to help provide good temperature insulation, reduce vibration and exterior sounds, and to help absorb low-vibrating bass tones so that you get a clearer mid-level and lower bass response coming from your subwoofer and mid-range speakers. I figured that these products are the same thing being both expensive and sparse in quantity. I went out to a Pep Boys and found a s#!tload of sound and heat deadening material for about $39.99. I also looked at a Home Depot and found the exact same material and quantity for $19.99 where waterheater insulation is sold. This product is thicker than the other two products and was cheaper and plentiful. My question is, "Has anyone tried this product or anything kind of sound deadening material inside their car and how well does this really work"?

Also, I'm thinking of putting Dynamat xtreme 10"x10" speaker squares on the perimeter of my speakers. I am also applying a thin weather stripping tape that will go in-between the speakers and the speaker well in order to reduce vibration even more. I've placed some small squares of thick weatherstripping tape underneath my "loose" subwoofer and I get a much smoother sound by doing this. Meanwhile, I also deadened the vibration of my license plate by applying weatherstripping behind it. What do you think of this?

demoninvictus

bro, you're definately headed in the right direction with the **** that you've done so far.. weather stripping is your friend . these materials you talk of for insulating water heaters, tyvec type insulations (foil backed with fiberglass) are not intended for insulation of sound, however, may just work the same for ya.. though i wouldn't recommend it. the best that i could recommend for you is this.. to finish off your car:
1) get about 50 to 60 square feet of SYNTHETIC carpet padding.. **** runs about 30 bucks at any local carpet store (sometimes goes by the name hartex)
2) get about 60 to 80 square feet of dynamat .. a cheap alternative is E-Dead at http://www.edesignaudio.com
3) take off your door panels and tear out the plastic insulation.. put a layer of dynamat on all flat surfaces INSIDE the door (ie the exterior skin of the door), throw in some carpet padding to boot, afterwards, put a solid sheet over the door itself (the metal that you see exposed under the door panel) covering up all holes with dynamat. this takes care of your doors
4) pull out your front seats (4 14mm bolts per seat) and your rear seat (two clips in the front of the rear seat cushion) then pull up your carpet as methodically as possible and install 2 layers of the carpet padding in under there and up towards the firewall as much as you can. this is the cheapest solution to deaden the floor.
At this point, your car is for the most part road noise proofed... the best it's going to sound .. your drive quality will increase DRAMATICALLY. the only reason why i leave out sound deadening the floor is dynamat really only does you any good on pieces of metal that are going to vibrate.. your floor isn't one of them.
THEN:
5) use the remainder of your dynamat and do the entire trunklid, side panels in the trunk itself. you can even do behind the rear tail lights if they leak any.
6) pull out your trunk vents in the rear (very well hidden but noticeable if you tear out the plastic paneling)... the vents are located by the rear side markers. plug the holes up with dynamat
7) remove your rear dash board and install a layer of carpet padding under the dash board and then a little weather stripping under the 3rd brake light
THIS my friend, is a pretty spot on method to sound deaden your ENTIRE car, and is a bit extreme. all of these methods will kill metal vibration, increase your sound floor, and for the most part make your sound system ONLY heard from inside the car, not out. i did this work on my protege in a few weeks worth of time, and not every vibration on the trunk lid was solved, however, yielded VERY awesome results.
kevin

SHRED=SHiny+RED

Thanks D for showing me what do in a step by step order. I will use everything that you informed me about when I get working on this proceedure. I just want to know if you ever covered your roof and sill areas of your cabin with Dynamat or eDead? I notice a lot of wind sounds when I drive. If you did this step, how did you get into the roof and sill areas? One thing that I think is causing the excessive wind noises is my roof rack. I will probably remove this but my ex-girlfriend (lol - dude, she'll kill me if she reads this one) accidentally threw away the roof rack caps while cleaning out the garage. Yeah, that sucked bad! Anyway, I'm thinking about getting a pro to remove my sunroof so that I can put some dampening material on the sliding sunroof cover. Also, have you ever tried putting extra rubberized undercoating in the tire well area? I heard that this helps quiet the car even more.

demoninvictus

rubberized undercoating, given the correct set time does actually help a little, but nothing special.. in other words something like 45 mil edead would do a better job at it. do you have a p5? you could probably just buy the caps you speak of at the dealership. also, come to think of it, ALOT of those steps for the rear would be different for a p5. i would ask that you ask advice from somebody who owns a p5 and is heavily into audio to answer some of your questions, however, a headliner (the backing that insulates your roof) could be different on a p5.. my experience is solely with the first gen protege. to answer your question specifically, usually a layer of dynamat on ANY body panel surface that can be insulated with dynamat will benefit from it's installation. as far as brands, RAAMAT, FatMat, Dynamat, E-Dead, Brown Bead.. they'll all handle equally, though i've heard plenty of good about RAAMAT and Brown Bead. i'm sorry if i've left some questions unanswered, but this is the length of my experience
peace