Best Bang for your buck Subwoofer
May-26th-2003, 11:33 AM
#17
get orvillized! WTF?
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: I am here --> x
Posts: 948
Elementals are probably what I will end up getting, but the kicker compvrs are nice too! They are supposed to be their best round sub ever built (most durable). I am sure that they sound good too! The only local store that sells them is this store that is notorious for ripping people off. If I did get them, I would get them via Crutchfield or SoundDomain.
BlueLeds, is that you pounding the **** outta someone?!
Mister T
BlueLeds, is that you pounding the **** outta someone?!
Mister T
June-4th-2003, 06:21 PM
#20
get orvillized! WTF?
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: I am here --> x
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I just got to wait on that S.O.B. of a landlord I had to give me my deposit back. He was out of the country when I moved. Once it comes to me, I will order the EDesigns. I took almost all of the polyfill out of the box and trashed it. I probably have about 10% each side worth of the stuff. Do you reckon I need to get more? No biggie if so, stuff is cheap. I saw Office Space. I remember that part now.
As far as which "K" series, I may just go with a pair of single 4 ohm speakers. My amp can handle as low as 1/4 of an ohm, but don't want to jinx it. Besides, my headlights were slightly dimming just before the surround separated on my dual 4 ohm SPL12's. Maybe I can get more mileage out of the amp too! Damn thing retailed for over $600. I got that on dealer accomodation too so you are talking $240 is what I paid for that amp. Some times I miss working in car audio. Nah! Take that back. Once you got every thing you wanted, it sucked to have to be there and deal with some of the public.
My favorite questions was this: "Yo! Yo! How do you think this would sound? Four 12s, one fufteen, and 2 eights? Do you think that would be loud?" I can't tell you how many stupid questions like that I would get!!
Mister T
As far as which "K" series, I may just go with a pair of single 4 ohm speakers. My amp can handle as low as 1/4 of an ohm, but don't want to jinx it. Besides, my headlights were slightly dimming just before the surround separated on my dual 4 ohm SPL12's. Maybe I can get more mileage out of the amp too! Damn thing retailed for over $600. I got that on dealer accomodation too so you are talking $240 is what I paid for that amp. Some times I miss working in car audio. Nah! Take that back. Once you got every thing you wanted, it sucked to have to be there and deal with some of the public.
My favorite questions was this: "Yo! Yo! How do you think this would sound? Four 12s, one fufteen, and 2 eights? Do you think that would be loud?" I can't tell you how many stupid questions like that I would get!!
Mister T
June-5th-2003, 04:24 PM
#22
get orvillized! WTF?
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
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Too bad I can't get an 18 and really turn some heads! If I did that, the entire trunk would be a box!!! Imagine a kicker compVR 18 could do! Might rattle something in your head loose!
<---Boy R D in tha house! 
MisterT
If I did that, the entire trunk would be a box!!! Imagine a kicker compVR 18 could do! Might rattle something in your head loose! <---Boy R D in tha house! MisterT
June-5th-2003, 07:08 PM
#23
get orvillized! WTF?
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
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I downloaded an owners manual from SoundStream and if I run two single 4 ohm EDesigns bridged, I would get 400 watts RMS out of the amp in high power. If I get the DVC EDesigns, it would drop it to 1 ohm and would get 600 watts RMS in High Current mode. The only problem would be the lights slightly dimming (even with the stiffening cap). 200 watts per woofer isn't too shabby though for the "K" series. I have to decide by next week. I got the money to order them finally!
Lastly, my 1.25 cubic inch per side prefab box has about 10% polyfill. Should I add more or leave it since the EDesigns require 1.2 cubic inches? Dumb question I know, but although they have a 3 year warranty, I want them to last and sound great.
Mister T
Lastly, my 1.25 cubic inch per side prefab box has about 10% polyfill. Should I add more or leave it since the EDesigns require 1.2 cubic inches? Dumb question I know, but although they have a 3 year warranty, I want them to last and sound great.
Mister T
June-6th-2003, 04:09 PM
#25
get orvillized! WTF?
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An 18 in a VW bug??? Holy cow dude, that would be EXTREME!! I bet a sound system is ideal in that car do to the dome shape. You would really be the talk of the town. How many cars do you have?! EDesigns still don't have subs in production yet. I was on their website the other day. I guess I could go with the DVC on both and drop the load to 1/2 ohm and buy a bigger battery to help with the dimming of headlights. Any idea as to what sized battery the Protege comes with? At least with the DVC subs, I have different wiring options to run different loads too.
Mister T
Mister T
June-6th-2003, 04:28 PM
#26
get orvillized! WTF?
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Originally posted by blue LEDz
i only have one, but my dad has 6 or 7 old bugs, 2 buses, 1 porsche 914, and 3 old 1950's trucks. some are project vehicles, some for parts
and those are the vehicles that we don't drive everyday if you run 2 dual 4 ohm VC subs, all in parallel, you'd have a 1 ohm mono load. i don't know the stock battery size, but i use a red top excide battery and love it. the only downside is that it doesn't exactly fit in the battery location. the stock battery is a bit taller than the spiral cell batteries, so you need to put a piece of wood under the new batt
i only have one, but my dad has 6 or 7 old bugs, 2 buses, 1 porsche 914, and 3 old 1950's trucks. some are project vehicles, some for parts
and those are the vehicles that we don't drive everyday if you run 2 dual 4 ohm VC subs, all in parallel, you'd have a 1 ohm mono load. i don't know the stock battery size, but i use a red top excide battery and love it. the only downside is that it doesn't exactly fit in the battery location. the stock battery is a bit taller than the spiral cell batteries, so you need to put a piece of wood under the new batt
"Nice set of hooters you got there!" Dumb and Dumber That part was hilarious if you know what I am talking about. Mister T
June-6th-2003, 06:49 PM
#27
get orvillized! WTF?
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
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there is a dealership where this guy will test your battery and see how much of a load your amps are taking from your battery. Cool dude! He is this old black man who tells you to crank it up to the volume you normally listen to and watches the meter to tell you if it's too much on the battery and need an alternator or not, honest guy too! I have bought all of my batteries from him as well as my family and my ex's family. It's a family owned business, but they do you right unlike Pep Boys or AutoZone who says, "Yeah that'll work, " and think whatever guy, I just got your money! I hear Sears has some pretty good ones that are fairly cheap too! Nothing like Optima dry cell ones though. Those are pretty killer. I saw one shot 4 times with a .457 and still start an 18 wheeler! Very pricey though. I would have one and take it from one car to the next if I was to spend that kind of money!
Mister T
Mister T
June-7th-2003, 07:07 AM
#28
get orvillized! WTF?
Thread Starter
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I am hoping it's not the alternator that will need replacing. I am already spending more than I intended. The subwoofer surround thing really set me back. My highs and mids sound really good though That is the best way to see if you are happy with your set up, is to go without subs and live with just highs and mids and see how you like it. When I pop in a Limp Bizkit CD or some other CD, I am anticipating the bass and it's not there <DOH!>
I am getting the check deposited first thing Monday and will order oh say, Tuesday from EDesigns. I will go with the DVCs and get a bigger battery if I have to. They can handle 325 watts RMS a piece and with the DVCs I can get 600 watts RMS from my amp (which is an under rated power any how). It can handle 1/2 ohm in mono and 1/4 ohm stereo.
Mister T
That is the best way to see if you are happy with your set up, is to go without subs and live with just highs and mids and see how you like it. When I pop in a Limp Bizkit CD or some other CD, I am anticipating the bass and it's not there <DOH!> I am getting the check deposited first thing Monday and will order oh say, Tuesday from EDesigns. I will go with the DVCs and get a bigger battery if I have to. They can handle 325 watts RMS a piece and with the DVCs I can get 600 watts RMS from my amp (which is an under rated power any how). It can handle 1/2 ohm in mono and 1/4 ohm stereo.
Mister T
June-7th-2003, 08:08 AM
#29
Protege Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: South Florida
Posts: 14
Single or Double 4 ohm?
I just looked at the elemental designs 10 inch speakers. I just want to add one speaker to my system (stock 6-cd) and replace the factory speakers with upgrades. I am thinking about the elemental 10's but I dont know what the diff is between single or double ohm.
I am comletely newbie to this stuff so any advice is greatly appreciated.
doc_simple
I am comletely newbie to this stuff so any advice is greatly appreciated.
doc_simple
June-7th-2003, 10:44 AM
#30
Show Layne some respect
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Long Island,NY
Posts: 2,458
Single or dual voice coil is for wiring flexibility - performance-wise, they are the same.
What you need to do is match up the impedance (ohms) of the sub to what your amp can safely handle.
For example, nearly all 2 channel amplifiers can only handle a 4 ohm load (no less) when bridged to run mono (same as 2 ohms per channel). So you'd need to make sure that the sub you buy has no less than a 4 ohm impedance. Many subwoofer amplifiers (mono- single channel) can run loads far less than 4 ohms, some down under 1 ohm. Similarly, you'd want to match the impedance of the sub to the handling of the amplifier.
Dual voice coil subs allow you wire them as though they were two separate speakers. When linking several coils to one amplifier, the impedance changes based upon how you make your connections (series or parallel wiring).
To keep things simple, I would just choose a sub to buy. How many voice coils is not all that important. Then, choose your amplifier accordingly. So go ahead and pick your sub, and then I'm sure we can find a proper amp to power it with for you.
~HH
What you need to do is match up the impedance (ohms) of the sub to what your amp can safely handle.
For example, nearly all 2 channel amplifiers can only handle a 4 ohm load (no less) when bridged to run mono (same as 2 ohms per channel). So you'd need to make sure that the sub you buy has no less than a 4 ohm impedance. Many subwoofer amplifiers (mono- single channel) can run loads far less than 4 ohms, some down under 1 ohm. Similarly, you'd want to match the impedance of the sub to the handling of the amplifier.
Dual voice coil subs allow you wire them as though they were two separate speakers. When linking several coils to one amplifier, the impedance changes based upon how you make your connections (series or parallel wiring).
To keep things simple, I would just choose a sub to buy. How many voice coils is not all that important. Then, choose your amplifier accordingly. So go ahead and pick your sub, and then I'm sure we can find a proper amp to power it with for you.
~HH