Hey, it runs again! Got it all together finally. Got the valve cover yesterday late and put it all back together last night. Had to finish the exhaust also. Took it out for a drive right away and ran it for 20 minutes just to make sure it seats well. I'm not noticing the 'lope at idle' that others have talked about. It does idle about 100 rpm lower but is still very smooth. I'm sure it needs to run longer to re-calibrate, but it does pull better in the upper RPM. I'm also noticing that I don't get the low speed surge that used to be there whenever I let the throttle off and re-applied it. It's still there, but not to the same degree. Not sure if this is the cam or the exhaust mods I did. I'm going to dyno it soon so will keep everyone posted.

 

Traveler, once again, great information. Would it be safe to say the FS-ZE intake cam shouldn't require valve lash check/adjustment since it's a factory Mazda part and the tolerances should be very precise?

 

I'm pretty sure my exhaust loping note came from the exhaust camshaft. Like I said, it's very quiet, but still there.

I tested all my fittings and found a tear in the rubber seal that hooked my intake to the throttle body. Enough to make the RPMs die down sometimes at a stop, so the car idles fine now.

Once again, good mod for the price. Awesome job on keeping posted, I disappeared for months when doing mine

 

about how long does it take to swap out a cam? did you re-tighten all the bolts to proper torque specs?

 

Eric: I'm thinking exactly that. The valve lash is still spot on. The cams have exactly the same base circle, so mine just dropped right in. People might have to adjust it if they are doing this on higher mileage motor (35,000 miles +) just due clearances tending to open up with mileage.

Ambient: Yep. An air leak anywhere between the air meter and the throttle body will screw up the idle everytime. The computer thinks it's moving less air than it is.

Eeterp: Depends on if you do it all at one time! I pulled mine apart to powdercoat the valve cover, and didn't put it all the way back together until I got it back. Shouldn't take more than 4 hours though. I think I did it in about 2 1/2 if I add up the time I spent just on the cam. Be advised, getting to the belt tensioner is a bitch. You have to take off the motor mount on the passenger side, and take off the damper and both timing covers. Make sure to use a jack under the motor when you remove the mount. I used a soft block of wood on the jack and lifted against the transaxle. DON'T use a jack on the oil pan. Yes, I retightened to specs. The cam bearings only need 100-125 inch pounds. Make sure not to overtighten them.

 

Well this post has been one of the best damned reads I've had in awhile. I'm in a bind as to what I should do for a bit more power. I do think I want to go turbo someday, but if the NA route can somehow get me up to around 170 or 180 HP at the crank (MP3), I will be satisfied for plenty of time.

Here is what I would do initially if I went the NA route:
- Intake cam
- AEM intake
- Bosal Exhaust
- Header

I know this won't yield 180HP at the crank, probably not even 170HP. What do you guys think? Nobody really seems to know the gains from a header since there aren't any bolt-ons readily available yet.

The four parts up there would probably be under/around $1000 and have less chance of voiding any warranties. The only problem is installation. I am by no means mechanically inclined yet. I know I could install the AEM and Exhaust no problem. How hard is it to install a header? How much do shops (not dealer) typically charge for a cam install? I have mechanically inclined friends. Heck, my girlfriend's dad is a mechanic, but lives a few hours away. I want to learn, but at the same time, I don't want to break anything .

Thanks for the awesome reading guys!

Chris

 

Hey Doomer_MP3, I'd do both cams if you're even thinking about doing one. The intake is an easy job, the exhaust is not really a big deal just make sure you have some silicon spray to use on the rubber hangers. Makes it MUCH easier to remove and replace them. The header should be easy also. All the bolts on the head are fairly easy to get to and then you undo the 2 bolts underneath where it connects to the eshaust system. There is also a single bolt that holds the short manifold piece connected to the primary cat onto the transaxle. If you are going to put in a header and a cat back, you would probably make a big difference taking out the small section in between and putting in a short 2.25" pipe and a high flow cat. The pipe going from the back of the motor to the #2 cat is only 1.75" ID. It's only about 2 1/2 feet long and is easily bent and replaced.

The cams are for people that know what they are doing. A decent shop should be able to do both in 3 hours or so. Rates are going to vary from shop to shop I'm sure.

I did the intake cam and modified the exhaust system between the #1 and #2 cats and opened up the outlet on the #1 cat a bit. I was putting down 102 HP with the cam and exhaust work, then 106.3 when we opened up the intake, and then 108.3 when we disconnected the muffler. These are peak numbers but the intake being opened up netted from 3-6 HP through the entire range. Problem is, the car is way rich as soon as it gets to 3500 RPM. Going to test it again with the exhaust cam in and see if it leans out a bit.

 

I just finished installing both cams this weekend, and am wondering what other people thing of the install.

I found the install not too bad (took 4 hours). Make sure you have an impact gun, sure makes taking the main pulley off easier. If you dont try to skip steps and take all the pulleys/belts/covers off, its pretty easy. MAKE SURE YOU ALIGN at TDC before you start, and make sure you replace the cams at TDC, with the alignment marks.
Anyways, I noticed a nice gain above 2000rpm, but did not notice any loss at low rpm. What I did notice was a quieter exhaust tone. I have the bosal cat-back and it still had a nice growl with a silencer, but now it seems quieter (I am even thinking of trying it out without the silencer).
I also noticed a bit more loping on the idle. I was expecting more from other messages, but it was less than I expected.

Overall I can say it was a nice mod. I'm happy with the gains.

 

For those of you interested I have removed the cams from my car and I'm selling them. Check out the "For Sale" section of this board.

I actually have two sets. Both the Jspec Intake camshaft and the Mazdaspeed exhaust camshaft

One set of 2 is used from my engine, the other set is brand new out of the box never installed. Read that sale post if interested.

 

i got my intake cam done on thursday. not as incredible as id hoped. install was 225. took about an hour and a half (this guy was GOOD!)

butt dyno: loses torque low end. gets some back above 3500 or so. throttle definately feels stronger at higher speeds (40-60) so hopefully that will help at the track around 3rd, 4th gear when the n20 starts to lose pressure and lean out. my idle is like at 200-1200, so i reset the ecu last night, i am hoping today the ecu will learn it and compensate so it won't cut off.

s'all i got!
ben

 

Considering that all you gain is 8-10 degrees of duration, the power is not going to be huge. The lift is the same as the stock cam. The exhaust cam has the same duration as the J-spec intake but adds .020 lift so the lift matches the intake cam. My car is up to 112 WHP with both cams and the intake and exhaust opened up. Still needs to be leaned out. I'm working on that.

 

I have the Exhaust & Intake camshafts currently on my Protege5. My other mods are Injen CAI, and Magnaflow Exhaust. The cams supposedly give 12 Horsepower from what i understand, I feel it more at high end power. I also have a 5 year warranty on my vehicle, but the dealership will never know since a service guy i know says he'll fix any problem that happens with them on. I ordered the Denso Iridium plugs and Magnecor wires, so thats the next thing ill be doing soon. If theres any questions any of you have , ill try to answer them the best i can.

 

Hi Ambient,
I heard you have the intake cam in your car. Have you done state inspection yet? I was wondering if the car will pass an emissions test with the J-spec intake cam. Thanks in advance if you would answer this question.

 

If your N2O loses pressure its not going to lean out its going to become more rich due to the fact its not spraying as much N2O.

 

So how are people dealing with the idle problem resulting from the cam switch?

Did resetting the ECU remedy it?