Did you guys read that whole thread? Prozzak Stratus is completely full of ****. First, he claims he has the AWR header, that's interesting, cause Tony is currently working with Mazda on producing a streetable version of that header right now. I don't think he's selling the Speedvision World Challenge Touring version to people for street use. If he did, it would probably lose lots of low end power, as well as having no provision for the EGR tube. Second, he's mixing up the prices of the cams. Third, and the real whopper, he claims to have moved the primary catalytic converter back to the exhaust tubing behind the header. Have you seen the size and shape of the primary header? Let alone the size and type of flanges on each end. No one would do that for free, and the cat would stay on the car for long cause the ground clearance of the primary cat under the car would be close to zero. Last he says he has the dual cat exhaust, but later refers two the second cat as a resonator. They are nothing alike in shape or function. He is a lousy liar, and probably has none of the parts he claims to have.

 

AMEN Eric! When I read that he had the AWR header, I was like Maybe he bought the $2000 header off of mazdamotorsports but, that's about as likely as his CLAIMED 42hp gain!

BTW, I've heard of people using a drivetrain loss of 15% (stick) and 20% (auto) for quite sometime. Granted, every car is different but, it SEEMS to be a general rule that many people use (accurate or not).

 

AWR does list the mild steel header version on their website for $375.

 

:
cause there is no way he could get that much power

 

Originally posted by PseudoRealityX

<quote> Not only does he say he has the same header as the World Challange cars.....which the race header is on the site at like 1400 bucks, he said he got it for 399.

"yO, i did nOt print no stinkin' dyno sheets, cuz yO, my peoples B like hOOkin' me up and shiEt, yO"<endquote>

HAHAHAHAHHA!!!ROFL!!!!!!!holy crap thats too good man! you forgot the essential phrase of, "SuP, BiAtCh? Yo, If YoU DoNt LiKe WhAt Im SaYiN, Yo, I pUt A CaP In Yo *** BiAtCh!"

HAHAHAHA!!!! people like this loser who claims 40hp are wasting the oxygen for the rest of us! oh yeah, dont forget hes probably got like 400 stickers too that add at least 20hp+!!

good one PseudoRealityX....good one

 

Alright people, I haven't posted in months, mostly because certain persons at this board that feel they have something to prove by shunning others....hummmmm. I wasn't personally attacked, but many have.

But I got them installed, well actually about 2 months ago. J-spec intake camshaft and Mazda speed exhaust camshaft. If you don't count my first fumble with installation, I spent exactly $300 on both cams, and had a personal mechanic buddy to install them in trade for ride to Myrtle Beach.

Power gain is not 'throw you in the back of the seat' power, but it is increasingly noticeable in the RPM band greater than 4000 revolutions.

My car produces a barely noticeable loping exhaust note now, which though some people compliment me on, I personally hate. Induction sounds roar* See Below. My idle, well that's another story, something I gotta get used to. I have a few more things to adjust, either my timing or some seals with my intake, the car loves to drop down into the 200rpm range sometimes during a stop, very annoying.

Overall, for the price, go for it. The power is nice. This is if you don't want to spend almost $700 for Mazda to install(just the intake cam) to keep it under warranty.

Don't expect a dyno chart for a while, it's honestly not on the top of the list of things for me to do. I'll try to keep in touch. Inimical_01ES, I think I left you my aim screen name or my email address, get in touch with me through that, or through PM.



* See Above: Pulling in after a race after the install, he approached me, removed his hat, slightly cocked his head looking at my car. His eyes then hit mine, mouth opened. What followed could only be explain as a true 'tard, something that I only could turn myself and walk away from, "Yo dawg, your car sounded awesome when it hit VTEC"

 

Wayne, thanks for the info. There's no substitute for actual experience with a particular mod. Don't let anyone run you away from the forum.

 

How fast Mazda motorsports usually answer emails?

I sent them one three days ago, but still havent got any answer.
I want to get the cams, but i need them in 3 weeks ... but i need to get an answer about transportation and costs so i could make the bank money transfer.

 

My cams will be here in the next 2 weeks, and getting ready to do the install.
I have the service manual, and from what I see I need to order the seals on the cams.
Otherwise it seems straight forward. How hard is to to put the timing belt/tensioner. Any hints..

My main question is about the shims. Did everyone just change the cams and that was it? Did anyone check the valve clearence and change some shims? Did you need the SST, or what was your workaround??

 

since you mention checking the shims, i heard it mentioned on the miata.net board that if you adjust it so that the cold lash is at the minimum acceptable clearance, you can get a little better performance out of the cams.

 

But did they use the sst (special service tool) in order to change them, or did do it another way??

Anyone have any idea how mazda sells shims? Do they sell an assortment kit, or just in specific sizes??

 

i don't know about any special tools, and i have no idea how the shims are sold.

i was thinking about this while i was driving in to work today. if the protege uses hydraulic followers, this won't work because there is no adjustment on that style. i believe this only applied to the solid follower miata motors.

 

But they don't don't use the HLA's from the BP engine. I'm not sure if any shims are required.

 

Oh, is that what this is supposed to mean?

 

So has anyone actually re-shimmed when they installed the jspec intake cam? That could possibly be your idle drop problem. If the clearance is too tight, you get a slight amount of reversion into the intake that causes an inconsistent vacuum signal. I've seen this happen on cars that had easier to adjust screw type adjustments on the rockers. Also, it makes it much more likely that you will 'burn' an intake valve due to the valve not contacting the seat long enough and well enough to transfer heat.

I'm really curious about the shims. I'm planning on installing the jspec intake this next week while the valve cover is off getting powder coated. I'm trying to have it back together by Tuesday evening.