1st gen/323/GLC Engine and Drivetrain Engine/Drivetrain Modification Discussions for 1990-1994 Models (BG chassis) and 1981-1989 GLC/323 Models (BD and BF chassis)

Mods For a 1.8l sohc

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Old March-19th-2002, 12:27 PM
  #16  
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Originally posted by Identity_X


where are you getting it from......???
Corksport ??
No I'm getting it from a japanese engine importer in So. Cal. Braden is going to help me out with the swap.
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Old March-19th-2002, 12:28 PM
  #17  
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Originally posted by PseudoRealityX


The cams are one of the major restrictions on the BP motor. The other 2 major ones being the ECU and lack of compression (8.8:1).

Now of course I dont have any dyno proof, since nobody in the protege community actually gets serious to get cams and get the thing dyno'd and tuned, and all the rest of it, but I really think that you can get a lot more power out of a BP.

I mean the stock 94-97 miata intake cam is only a 232 degree cam, and its an improvement on our intake cam. Now say you get the TODA 256 degree set. Thats a lot more duration, plus with a set of cam gears you would be able to dial in some overlap to get the scavenging effects to make it even more benefical. The reason why you have to use the lockers is because of the ramp-up and ramp-down time, meaning the valve is open for a longer period near its max lift, which by the way is also higher than the oem cams.

Randy S. just built up a nice street BP. Street meaning its still got a ton of mid-range torque, at a sacricfice to top end power. Its currently pulling about 155 hp at the wheels, or a little less than what something like a stock Integra Type R has, however, when you add in that the BP has FAR MORE TORQUE, you'll see that its probably a quicker car, depending on gearing.
I gotchya. Well, bear in mind, the gude head I have is decked. I imagine it will be just over 9.5:1. The website doesn't give a figure. The higher compression will help out with the cams. Though, I do see what you're saying.

Maybe I'll buy a set of TODA cams when I start building up my race engine on the side.
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Old March-19th-2002, 01:27 PM
  #18  
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Originally posted by PseudoRealityX


Yeah...please do me a favor and get that thing dyno'd and post it.
I will once I get it all on. ****, if I manage to get all the peices together before the end of the month, I can get a dyno figure for ya sooner rather than later.

There happens to be a group dyno goingn on the 30th. Either I'll have a baseline dyno figure for my dx which I can compare to when I get the gude head on, or I'll have a dyno of the gude head.
I'm not pushing for the gude head to go on any time soon. I just spent enough time under the car (half of saturday, all of sunday), and I'm sore in some places still to this day (my neck has finally recovered)! I had to put my lower tie bars on, and I decided to finally replace my oil pan gaskget, as I knew there was a leak towards the rear of the block. It's holding up nicely, and I must say that Ultra Grey from permatex r0x j0r s0x. I put oil back in the block and let the car run till it came to normal temp, turned it off, and then waited 15-20 minutes to see if any oil leaked. Turns out, I saw one drop of oil when I came back out to check for oil leaks. Seems that either the valve cover gasket needs replacing or the leak is coming from somewhere else around the head. There's a "wetness" (because I could never really tell if it was oil or not) between the block and head running to the exhaust manifold right on the corner of the first cylinder. It's odd. I'm going to replace the valve cover gasket when I get a chance and see if that eliminates the oil leak. Figure I better do all this **** now, if I want to run in any autox events (read that there needs to be no leaks during tech). While the car was on jackstands, looking from underneath, I saw a bit of oil on the exhaust manifold. Now I know wtf that smell of burning oil comes from when I stop and get out of the car. Geh.

Ooookay. Simple reply turned into a long story. Weeee.

Doka doka.

Last edited by zenilder; March-19th-2002 at 05:25 PM.
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Old March-19th-2002, 05:57 PM
  #19  
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Originally posted by jay93dx


No I'm getting it from a japanese engine importer in So. Cal. Braden is going to help me out with the swap.
if it's not a secret...how much are you getting it for ???
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Old March-19th-2002, 09:18 PM
  #20  
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Originally posted by 94dxpro
Anyone have any ideas on what i can buy next?? or is there any small mods i cando for a little extra power??

how much is the gude package and how hard is it to install??
Msg wil (groharlem) bout that, he had one!
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Old March-19th-2002, 11:06 PM
  #21  
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Originally posted by PseudoRealityX


I posted this to Braden...he might reply, if he's not lazy
thanks man.........you've been a lot of help lately
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Old March-20th-2002, 12:13 AM
  #22  
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If you would like a motor or any other performance product to make your LX faster I would be more than happy to supply you with those parts.

Contact me at for more info.
turboge@yahoo.com
bltperformance@yahoo.com
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Old March-20th-2002, 12:54 AM
  #23  
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Originally posted by zenilder


Where are ya at, and how much do you want for them?

I'm in 'north' san diego county... i've had some UR cam gears that haven't been installed yet. i'm trying to figure out who to have do the work...
anyways, my stock ones SHOULD be available by the end of the month... i don't know 'bout price...i'll PM ya

And guys, any guesses for best settings on the UR's for high HP OR midrange torque? its gonna be FUN xperimenting!!...just wish i had some good cams to install as well....hmmmmm

Last edited by protejay; March-20th-2002 at 01:56 AM.
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Old March-20th-2002, 08:23 AM
  #24  
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Originally posted by PseudoRealityX


The only thing i can say is Research Miata guys that are running high end NA cars....but usually, you NEED to get the car on a dyno. Butt dynos dont work for cam gears.
I researched some on the miataforum a while back; and found that a '8 degree retard' was 'best', but that was comin from someone with i believe a 94-97 stock cammed miata....

And bein that i've just started tryin to learn cam timing, i didn't quite understand if that '8 degree retard' would be on the intake OR exhaust cam????
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