Questions for Matty on mounting S/C
#17
Originally Posted by Roddimus Prime
maybe but not on the fs-de (the only protege I'm familiar with)....the crank pulley is way too close to the frame rail for anything else to fit.
Otherwise I would need to get a 5 rib s/c pulley and that belt would run the p/s pump,a/c compressor and the s/c ????
hmmm...second gen MR2's and Subaru Xt6's had electric p/s pumps...perhaps i go a step further and have the crank ONLY run the s/c'er and a/c....that way less drag and less chance of slipping when the compressor kicks on....
i think i'll definitely get that spring loaded belt tensioner they offer
#18
it depends on how your belt system is set up. on the fs-de you have 2 seperate belt systems. We have one belt that runs AC / PS and one that runs Waterpump/ALT. My system doesn't have any effect on the alt/waterpump. Yours should be the same way.
those springloaded tensioners are nice and can be had at local auto parts stores for a few dollars. They're pretty generic.
those springloaded tensioners are nice and can be had at local auto parts stores for a few dollars. They're pretty generic.
#19
Originally Posted by Roddimus Prime
it depends on how your belt system is set up. on the fs-de you have 2 seperate belt systems. We have one belt that runs AC / PS and one that runs Waterpump/ALT. My system doesn't have any effect on the alt/waterpump. Yours should be the same way.
those springloaded tensioners are nice and can be had at local auto parts stores for a few dollars. They're pretty generic.
those springloaded tensioners are nice and can be had at local auto parts stores for a few dollars. They're pretty generic.
#20
yeah, then you'd probably be able to get away with something very similar to what I've done.
If you decided not to relocate the ps pump to the bottom of the engine like I did then you can mount the blower on a jackshaft on the drivers side....upside down. Just make sure everything is rotating the right way and you can provide enough belt wrap on the blower pulley to keep it from slippng.
If you decided not to relocate the ps pump to the bottom of the engine like I did then you can mount the blower on a jackshaft on the drivers side....upside down. Just make sure everything is rotating the right way and you can provide enough belt wrap on the blower pulley to keep it from slippng.
#21
Yah, I still have yet to hear back from them on the rotational direction of the blower....
here's a pic of that tensioner though, check it out....it would be one less thing to fabricate on how to mount
here's a pic of that tensioner though, check it out....it would be one less thing to fabricate on how to mount
#23
Well, upon closer inspection, I guess I'm going to sh**can this idea ...apparently I never bothered looking, but 1.6's actually only have *4* rib belts, tiny in comparison to an average s/c 6 rib or 2.0L 5 rib pulleys for that matter....I dont see any way of making this reliable, short of custom pulleys for the crank,p/s,and A/C compressor....
Looks like I need to tt Hiboost
I can simply bolt up Juans turbo manifold and downpipe to a T25 for easy install, i just need to figure out charge piping and intercooler mounting
Looks like I need to tt Hiboost
I can simply bolt up Juans turbo manifold and downpipe to a T25 for easy install, i just need to figure out charge piping and intercooler mounting
#25
With a custom pulley you can run a centrifugal on the backside (smooth side) of the belt. It does not slip as much as you would think. I can get 15# of boost on my car using the smooth side with a smooth pulley.
#27
after pricing out what a turbo would cost me(approx $1300), versus a s/c kit...($1200 for the head unit alone), plus all the problems with driving it,mounting it,losing a/c,etc.....I've all but ruled a s/c out
#29
I initially looked at S/C as a way to be different, and keep my rare 1.6L header, still go FI, and to help avoid other install problems like trannies breaking(s/c doesnt slam the tranny with torque like a turbo does), charge piping would be shorter and easier to route(no intercooler needed)....
considering my know-how though with turbo vs s/c and cost difference...this ended up being a no brainer after getting all the facts
Hiboost Manifold $375,Hiboost Downpipe $150,T25 $300,Charge piping+connectors+clamps $100,Intercooler $50,Vortech 12:1 FMU $150,Oil lines+Fittings $60, Coolant Lines $20,BOV $100, Various vacuum tubing $20...Labor $0(dad's a welder and everything else I can bolt on myself)....Total cost $1325
considering my know-how though with turbo vs s/c and cost difference...this ended up being a no brainer after getting all the facts
Hiboost Manifold $375,Hiboost Downpipe $150,T25 $300,Charge piping+connectors+clamps $100,Intercooler $50,Vortech 12:1 FMU $150,Oil lines+Fittings $60, Coolant Lines $20,BOV $100, Various vacuum tubing $20...Labor $0(dad's a welder and everything else I can bolt on myself)....Total cost $1325
#30
yeah, you shouldn't have any problems with that set-up...just FYI though the roots system I'm looking at making will be about that in cost. here's my breakdown.
M45 ($400-600) new not refurbed
mounting plate ($150)
belt tensioner system ($150)
throttlebody 65mm ($400)
all in all it'll be neat to see different options. Options = good for everyone.
M45 ($400-600) new not refurbed
mounting plate ($150)
belt tensioner system ($150)
throttlebody 65mm ($400)
all in all it'll be neat to see different options. Options = good for everyone.