macdaddyslomo

Figured I'd start a thread rather than PM, so everyone can comment

How did you set it up to drive it ??? I want to set it up like 'stangs do with the extra pulley that mounts on top of the stock crank pulley and directly drive it off the crank, with an adjustable idler that bolts to the plate to tighten the belt....

I probably will concede the A/C once I get another car for the baby to ride in. It seems like there really isnt a better spot to mount it than where the compressor is...

I'm thinking of starting my parts bin off with one of those EBAY mustang Powerdyne kits...this will provide me with a BD11A, the mustang mounting plate which I am hoping I can either redrill or at least use as a template, some various charge piping,bolts,etc for like $1500..this should be a good start

Roddimus Prime

My original design didn't have a suitable tensioner. At high rpms it slipped some. The new plates I designed actually have a moveable idler pulley directly southwest of the blower puller. This allows the idler to screw down to provide tension and the further down it goes the more wrap it puts on the blower pulley. Accessories like the ps pump and alternator dont really need a lot of belt wrap or tension to work properly.

I highly doubt you'll be able to use any of the mustang mounting kit other than the template for the blower mount. nothing on those engines is even remotely like ours.

Also a bd-11a is a LARGE blower. I've got one here for sale if you want it. You can have it at my cost right now.

macdaddyslomo

but you did drive it off the crank with a pulley that bolts on TOP of the crank pulley, right ????....

the great think about eliminating the compressor on mine is some 1.6's came with NO a/c stock, so I can easily get a new belt too....

what is your cost on the blower ???(pm me with that please), bearing in mind this is something I'm talking about buying in a couple months,not days...but if the price is good you can still lock it in as bought,barring someone else having the money first..I would never ask anyone to hold something for me

I'm thinking of starting off non-intercooled, from what I understand, centrifigul blowers put out charge temps lower than turbos AFTER the intercooler anyway

I will definitely be getting the slimline to provide more room in the engine bay for charge pipe

another thought I was putting around was using a toyota TRD s/c, with that long *** shaft the pulley is attached to...this may in fact provide me with a way to keep the A/C,as it would mount on the opposite side of the engine, AND shorten charge piping dramtically


let me know your thoughts, thanks

Roddimus Prime

A trd SC is nothing more than an Eaton blower with acustom intake manifold made specifically for toyota engines. The only thing you'd be able to use is the SC body.

In my opinion...i dont know about the 1.6L's but on the FS-DE manifold the bottom half could stay in place if you could create an adapter from the blower output to mate up to the lower manifold you'd have an almost complete system.

now here's the downside.... You'd have to drive the blower off the alternator...not the crank. This is not ideal, doable but not ideal. Also there will be no intercooling unless you make a heat exchanger that mounts inbetween the manifold and blower...then you use a liquid pump to cycle water through it....extra weight and complication.



back to your original idea....

if you have no ac or remove the AC then the slimfan can be mounted in FRONT of the rad as a pusher which gives a LOT of room under the hood. this is what I've done.

Yes, a centrifugal blower (without engine oil) has lower charge temps than other blowers...but there's a few specifics...I wouldn't worry about charge temps much. Making a functional system is much harder...adding an aftercooler or water-injection is easy after the fact.

macdaddyslomo

Not all of them...TRD makes a centrifigal one now, it mounts on driver side, with a long "driveshaft" that has the pulley on the end extending to the passenger side where the drive belts are....

like the one for the TC shown here, or the second one, from some company called rip racing

Roddimus Prime

yeah, the RIPP stuff is supposedly real nice....

shaft drive blowers are just like regular blowers with more machining, work, and parts cost. The only thing that matters is that you can mount the pulley (blower) with access to the crank IN THE RIGHT ROTATION. That's a big thing. If you bolt a blower up and it spins backwards you'll actually suck air out of the motor!

macdaddyslomo

after doing some research on the RIPP stuff, it may be the way to go....they have a bolt on "tuner's kit" for $2600 (for a stratus)which includes practically everything I would need I would need a cusom bracket and crank pulley....I can have my father make the bracket...any ideas on the pulley ???

they also offer a VERY nice spring loaded belt tensioner to keep the belt tight

Roddimus Prime

I think RIPP uses Vortech blowers. You'll need to know the trim of the blower, your crank pulley diameter and the blowers internal step-up ratio. This will allow you to choose a blower pulley based on your desired psi. but keep in mind,....6psi from a Vortech S-trim i more like 12psi from a MSP turbo....your best bet is to buy a few different sized pulleys and start with the biggest first and see how it does.

how are you handling fueling?

macdaddyslomo

I planned on starting low boost and using BEGI Voltage Clamp and BEGI FMU....then I'm going to also tt gold pro about upgrading the stock injectors, as they max out QUICK...stockers on 1.6L are like 155's

Once the system is up and running if I want to increase boost, I'll end up using an F10X

Roddimus Prime

yeah, thats a good idea. I don't know much about the 1.6L engines as far as where everything is mounted but if you can find a place to mount the pulley in the right rotation and still be clear of other stuff you should be fine mounting it on a jackshaft.

macdaddyslomo

I have contacted RIPP to get more info...We'll see

Roddimus Prime

see if they'll sell you a kit with just the headunit,....well, now that I think of itthats about all you'll be able to use unless you decide to use the jackshaft set-up..

first thing I'd do is measure your engine bay where you plan on placing the blower....then measure the distance from there to the pulleys to see if their jackshaft is long enough to reach....you'll have to make your bracket EXACTLY the right distance in order for the belt not to walk off.

macdaddyslomo

exactly what I thought...only way to do it afaik is to have the headunit first....

I aksed them for pricing on their blower with the SDS and a bypass valve...everything else will have to be custom regardless....

once again any idea on where to get the drive pulley made ???

also would it be better to have an entire replacement crank pulley, or one that mounts to the stock crank pulley ???

Roddimus Prime

what is SDS?


if you need a bypass valve I can get you one at cost...I dunno how much they'd charge ya. they retail for about $100 I can get them in the $65-75 range for quality namebrand BOSCH bypasses.

just buy the different blower pulleys they make. Oh yeah. on the fs-de we have a 5rib belt system but most blowers use 6rib or greater pulleys so you'll need to look into that. DaveB made my first one and the new machinist is making all the others. Find out how many ribs your stock belts are and then make sure it'll be the same on RIPP's pulleys.

no need for a different crank pulley. Jyust get the diameter off it...go from there.

macdaddyslomo

SDS is the supercharger drive system...I think you called it the jackshaft....

what I wanted to do for the crank pulley is bolt a 6 rib pulley to the stocker so it sits side by side the stock pulley ?? can't this be done ?