Upgrading from factory
#1
Upgrading from factory
Hello everyone, new member here. I've got a 2002 Protege ES, Silver, 5-Speed.
My question is about upgrading the stock audio system. I would really like to add better speakers, some good quality ones. I was also considering adding a deck but after reading a few posts it seems as if i could add a amp and speakers to the stock unit (correct me if i'm wrong), as a new deck is smaller than the stock one.
Also which is the best choice for speakers and amps etc, MBQuart, Rockford or JL Audio?
Thanks a lot.
My question is about upgrading the stock audio system. I would really like to add better speakers, some good quality ones. I was also considering adding a deck but after reading a few posts it seems as if i could add a amp and speakers to the stock unit (correct me if i'm wrong), as a new deck is smaller than the stock one.
Also which is the best choice for speakers and amps etc, MBQuart, Rockford or JL Audio?
Thanks a lot.
#2
yes, it can be done. some have done a 5 channel amp with new speakers and a sub, some have done 4 channel amps and just new speakers.
as for which manufacturer. i don't have good info. basically, set your price range first, then poll for opinions for stuff in that range.
as for which manufacturer. i don't have good info. basically, set your price range first, then poll for opinions for stuff in that range.
#5
CanadianES, first off welcome to the club and our home away from home....
I personally just finished the install you described...I kept my stock head unit....added a 5 channel amp (cause i wanted to add a sub too), upgraded all the door speakers (I have a P-5 so my rear speakers are on my rear doors...yours are in the rear deck), and put a sub in the back.
the system is AWSOME...its not going to win any BUMP contests..but it really pumps and thumps...the way I look at it...when I am driving down the road...and I can have the CLEAR CRISP music pumping out...and the rear view AND side mirrors are vibrating enough that you can't see a clear image in them...it hits PLENTY hard. :{D
the complete install took me about 5 1/2 hours. I attribute that in part to the fact that I had NEVER done an install in a Protege before and did a little R&D along the way so that I could help others in the future.
The equipment I installed is an Alpine V-Power 5 channel amp, Rocford Fosgate speakers for the doors, and a JL Audio 10W0 sub in the back.
The install went off without a hitch.....total cost for all the equipment, the scosche amp install kit, and a few packs of bullet nose connectors....$700 US.
The best part...my system really rocks...and if you look through the window into the car....all you see is the oh so undesirable stock Head Unit!!! :{D
I personally just finished the install you described...I kept my stock head unit....added a 5 channel amp (cause i wanted to add a sub too), upgraded all the door speakers (I have a P-5 so my rear speakers are on my rear doors...yours are in the rear deck), and put a sub in the back.
the system is AWSOME...its not going to win any BUMP contests..but it really pumps and thumps...the way I look at it...when I am driving down the road...and I can have the CLEAR CRISP music pumping out...and the rear view AND side mirrors are vibrating enough that you can't see a clear image in them...it hits PLENTY hard. :{D
the complete install took me about 5 1/2 hours. I attribute that in part to the fact that I had NEVER done an install in a Protege before and did a little R&D along the way so that I could help others in the future.
The equipment I installed is an Alpine V-Power 5 channel amp, Rocford Fosgate speakers for the doors, and a JL Audio 10W0 sub in the back.
The install went off without a hitch.....total cost for all the equipment, the scosche amp install kit, and a few packs of bullet nose connectors....$700 US.
The best part...my system really rocks...and if you look through the window into the car....all you see is the oh so undesirable stock Head Unit!!! :{D
Last edited by Sir Nuke; October-18th-2002 at 11:25 PM.
#7
yea, if you plan on making a nice system i would put in a new HU. you can them around 200-300 and they will really good. I have a JVC KD-SX980 that plays MP3 cd, cd-r, and normal cds and has 200W to power the speakers. plus it has two pre outs so you can have 2 amps w/little problems.
#8
Originally posted by jcd1006
yea, if you plan on making a nice system i would put in a new HU. you can them around 200-300 and they will really good. I have a JVC KD-SX980 that plays MP3 cd, cd-r, and normal cds and has 200W to power the speakers. plus it has two pre outs so you can have 2 amps w/little problems.
yea, if you plan on making a nice system i would put in a new HU. you can them around 200-300 and they will really good. I have a JVC KD-SX980 that plays MP3 cd, cd-r, and normal cds and has 200W to power the speakers. plus it has two pre outs so you can have 2 amps w/little problems.
The realist power from that unit is about 20 watts rms per speaker. Meaning 80 watts total. Peak power ratings are useless.
Now nukes upgrade on the other hand has 280 watts rms total, 40 to each speaker and 120 for the sub. peak power would put it at 480, either way I'm sure you see the advantages. Not to mention the high damping and greater clarity only achieved from out board amps.
#9
Originally posted by 1st MP3 in NH
Bullshit, but I be gentle.
The realist power from that unit is about 20 watts rms per speaker. Meaning 80 watts total. Peak power ratings are useless.
Now nukes upgrade on the other hand has 280 watts rms total, 40 to each speaker and 120 for the sub. peak power would put it at 480, either way I'm sure you see the advantages. Not to mention the high damping and greater clarity only achieved from out board amps.
Bullshit, but I be gentle.
The realist power from that unit is about 20 watts rms per speaker. Meaning 80 watts total. Peak power ratings are useless.
Now nukes upgrade on the other hand has 280 watts rms total, 40 to each speaker and 120 for the sub. peak power would put it at 480, either way I'm sure you see the advantages. Not to mention the high damping and greater clarity only achieved from out board amps.
#10
Originally posted by jcd1006
Yes it does push about 20 watts rms per speaker, but the total peak power is 200W. which is about average for cd players. 200W = 50W x 4. Just thought i would throw that in there.
Yes it does push about 20 watts rms per speaker, but the total peak power is 200W. which is about average for cd players. 200W = 50W x 4. Just thought i would throw that in there.
#11
Originally posted by douggie
I think 1st MP3 key point was: Peak power ratings are useless. By the time you reach that kind of power output (by cranking up the vol), u'll be hearing 100% distortion, and not music.
I think 1st MP3 key point was: Peak power ratings are useless. By the time you reach that kind of power output (by cranking up the vol), u'll be hearing 100% distortion, and not music.
BINGO!!
And 1st...you hit the nail on the head with the estimate....the Alpine ADVERTISES 75 watts MAX/Channel and 180 MAX to the sub....thus 480 watts MAX....but keeping it down in the useable range...it ROCKS!!!
#12
Originally posted by Sir Nuke
BINGO!!
And 1st...you hit the nail on the head with the estimate....the Alpine ADVERTISES 75 watts MAX/Channel and 180 MAX to the sub....thus 480 watts MAX....but keeping it down in the useable range...it ROCKS!!!
BINGO!!
And 1st...you hit the nail on the head with the estimate....the Alpine ADVERTISES 75 watts MAX/Channel and 180 MAX to the sub....thus 480 watts MAX....but keeping it down in the useable range...it ROCKS!!!
#13
Originally posted by 1st MP3 in NH
I have to admit that i didn't remember it, I looked it up on Alpines website.
I have to admit that i didn't remember it, I looked it up on Alpines website.
#14
Originally posted by Sir Nuke
I actually NEVER saw those figures...only the RMS specs....which of course are the ones that count....didn't see the MAX numbers till I got the amp and that is what is on the cover of the box it BIG numbers....lol
I actually NEVER saw those figures...only the RMS specs....which of course are the ones that count....didn't see the MAX numbers till I got the amp and that is what is on the cover of the box it BIG numbers....lol
Last edited by douggie; October-22nd-2002 at 12:28 AM.
#15
Originally posted by douggie
hehe, it's ironic that the BIG numbers on the box or the amp are not numbers that you can trust (nor do they have any significant meaning)
hehe, it's ironic that the BIG numbers on the box or the amp are not numbers that you can trust (nor do they have any significant meaning)