Short positive wire
July-26th-2003, 10:10 PM
#16
Da' Butcher
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 668
Damn, that's messed up...Anyway, it looks like you might have to do the "butt" connector to resolve this, unless you want to run a whole new wire. You would have to trace the wire to where it goes and run a new one. A little time consuming, but worth the effort for looks and piece of mind.
July-26th-2003, 10:11 PM
#17
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Location: Fremont, CA
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Originally posted by Rider69
Damn, that's messed up...Anyway, it looks like you might have to do the "butt" connector to resolve this, unless you want to run a whole new wire. You would have to trace the wire to where it goes and run a new one. A little time consuming, but worth the effort for looks and piece of mind.
Damn, that's messed up...Anyway, it looks like you might have to do the "butt" connector to resolve this, unless you want to run a whole new wire. You would have to trace the wire to where it goes and run a new one. A little time consuming, but worth the effort for looks and piece of mind.
July-27th-2003, 01:20 PM
#18
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Is it safe to crimp the car's cable to a patch of mine and connect it to the new terminal like that?
What if I put a ring terminal on the amp's cable and bolt it to the old battery terminal? Will that work? Is it safe?
Come on guys!
I want to hear my sub already!
What if I put a ring terminal on the amp's cable and bolt it to the old battery terminal? Will that work? Is it safe?
Come on guys!
I want to hear my sub already!
July-27th-2003, 01:41 PM
#19
Protege Owner
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Oklahoma City OK- where it is flat
Posts: 487
Originally posted by MisterT
I have a 3rd Gen. Pro so I can't help much on the wire. Maybe Blue could or some one else with a 2nd. I rerouted and removed some wires on my groundkit while it was drizzling. I haven't gotten to the alt. yet. I don't know if I will. There is guy on the other forumn who did his in 1/0 gauge and beefed up the alternator as well as put 1/0 or 4 gauge wire to the fuse box (overkill) and still got dimming lights. He was running a JL 1000 watt mono amp and a 300.4. It may be in the wiring of the headlights itself that causes the dim. I wonder if the new MSP with the crappy Kenwood subs make the headlights dim.
I guess there is no way to turn battery so pos lead is closer to the wire? One good thing about the 3nd Gen. is that the alternators are easier to get to (at least Blue's is). Mine you have to crawl under the car.
Off topic, but got paint for calipers and some blue flex loom and gutter shields for the grills. I figured if it clears up, I can at least start some of the stuff.
Once it's done, I can update my website.
MisterT
I have a 3rd Gen. Pro so I can't help much on the wire. Maybe Blue could or some one else with a 2nd. I rerouted and removed some wires on my groundkit while it was drizzling. I haven't gotten to the alt. yet. I don't know if I will. There is guy on the other forumn who did his in 1/0 gauge and beefed up the alternator as well as put 1/0 or 4 gauge wire to the fuse box (overkill) and still got dimming lights. He was running a JL 1000 watt mono amp and a 300.4. It may be in the wiring of the headlights itself that causes the dim. I wonder if the new MSP with the crappy Kenwood subs make the headlights dim.
I guess there is no way to turn battery so pos lead is closer to the wire? One good thing about the 3nd Gen. is that the alternators are easier to get to (at least Blue's is). Mine you have to crawl under the car. Off topic, but got paint for calipers and some blue flex loom and gutter shields for the grills. I figured if it clears up, I can at least start some of the stuff.
Once it's done, I can update my website. MisterT
My experences have been only with third generation cars, sorry.
Intruder- check around for solid billet- non fused- positive distribution blocks. With a two in and one our you could clip off the two wires, install them into the block, bolt the block down (follow directions or you get a witch of a short) and this install a single lenght from the block to the battery, and terminate with your new connector there. You would be doing the same thing as the butt connector, but a little more "show" version of the connection.
July-27th-2003, 02:05 PM
#20
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Originally posted by Dave Cameron
Intruder- check around for solid billet- non fused- positive distribution blocks. With a two in and one our you could clip off the two wires, install them into the block, bolt the block down (follow directions or you get a witch of a short) and this install a single lenght from the block to the battery, and terminate with your new connector there. You would be doing the same thing as the butt connector, but a little more "show" version of the connection.
Intruder- check around for solid billet- non fused- positive distribution blocks. With a two in and one our you could clip off the two wires, install them into the block, bolt the block down (follow directions or you get a witch of a short) and this install a single lenght from the block to the battery, and terminate with your new connector there. You would be doing the same thing as the butt connector, but a little more "show" version of the connection.
July-27th-2003, 02:47 PM
#21
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July-27th-2003, 03:01 PM
#22
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Total came to $11.90 (including shipping).
July-27th-2003, 08:06 PM
#27
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Re: Poor Guy
Originally posted by MisterT
Intruder this little thing is turning out to be a HUGE expense isn't it?!
MisterT
Intruder this little thing is turning out to be a HUGE expense isn't it?!
MisterT
I paid $17 for the wood for the amp rack...
$5 for various screws, nuts, bolts, etc...
$12 more for a distribution block because of unexpected shortness of wire...
I thought I was done when I paid for the amp and the sub (and the wires).
Damn, this **** has no end!
I haven't finished the box yet. God knows what else I'll need to buy.
July-27th-2003, 09:11 PM
#28
get orvillized! WTF?
Join Date: Mar 2003
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Re: Re: Poor Guy
Originally posted by Intruder
yes...
I paid $17 for the wood for the amp rack...
$5 for various screws, nuts, bolts, etc...
$12 more for a distribution block because of unexpected shortness of wire...
I thought I was done when I paid for the amp and the sub (and the wires).
Damn, this **** has no end!
I haven't finished the box yet. God knows what else I'll need to buy.
yes...
I paid $17 for the wood for the amp rack...
$5 for various screws, nuts, bolts, etc...
$12 more for a distribution block because of unexpected shortness of wire...
I thought I was done when I paid for the amp and the sub (and the wires).
Damn, this **** has no end!
I haven't finished the box yet. God knows what else I'll need to buy.
July-27th-2003, 11:10 PM
#29
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Fremont, CA
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Re: Re: Re: Poor Guy
Originally posted by MisterT
Welcome to CAR AUDIO WORLD!!!
Welcome to CAR AUDIO WORLD!!!
I fucken unplugged the wire from the wire holder and sort of re-routed it around the battery. Now, instead of going under the battery and up... it is going up the other side (no "under" at all). I have just enough lenght to be able to secure it to the new terminal. I didn't do it yet because it got dark and I got lazy... It took me half an hour to remove the "battery holder" and put it back in place, then put the battery back, etc... I will put the new terminal in tomorrow...Yippee!!!
I sent an email to sounddomain to cancel my order.
July-29th-2003, 01:17 AM
#30
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Rogers, AR
Posts: 151
Hey intruder... I was wanting to put a distributer on my batt also and saw this but i was reading your post about how u fixed but didnt quite undestand it.... do u have any pics or can ya explain it better? thanks