Running speaker wires into the doors
August-22nd-2002, 09:05 AM
#1
Protege Owner
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 720
Running speaker wires into the doors
Just as help to other. It is possible to run new speaker wires into our doors trough the molex so no drilling of metal is neccassary.
I ran 14 guage monster cable wire into mine. Basicly I ran wires directrly from the amp. At the molex, plastic white clips in the door jam, remove the rubber boot and use a pick to depress the rounded areas of the molex ot relaease it, Basiclty the 1,5,7,11 o'clock positions and the molex will come out. Their are 2 side of each molex so pull up a the top release tab and thay will come apart. In the left door their is a nice open area of 4 pins that are unused, drill them out I tok out 2 at a time with a 1/4 drill bit. untill the speaker wires fit throught. then in the same posistion on the cars side molex drill out the same area. Slap the clipps back together and make sure the wire fits through. When it fits runthe wire inside of the car up thought the hole of the molex in the sheet metal then trought the molex then the rubber boot into the door. Replace the boot on the molex and slap the molex back in the door. DONE!
On the passanger side do the same except their is a wire from the cars side in the clip that goes no where on the doors side, I ut it back and taped it off to be safe. then just do the same as the drivers side door.
This was done on my MP3 and on a Protege 5 I worked on, Some cars may be different so if their is a wire on both side of the clip, DONT DRILL IT OUT! Also don't drill throught the center the retaining clips has to go through there to hold the two sides together.
I ran 14 guage monster cable wire into mine. Basicly I ran wires directrly from the amp. At the molex, plastic white clips in the door jam, remove the rubber boot and use a pick to depress the rounded areas of the molex ot relaease it, Basiclty the 1,5,7,11 o'clock positions and the molex will come out. Their are 2 side of each molex so pull up a the top release tab and thay will come apart. In the left door their is a nice open area of 4 pins that are unused, drill them out I tok out 2 at a time with a 1/4 drill bit. untill the speaker wires fit throught. then in the same posistion on the cars side molex drill out the same area. Slap the clipps back together and make sure the wire fits through. When it fits runthe wire inside of the car up thought the hole of the molex in the sheet metal then trought the molex then the rubber boot into the door. Replace the boot on the molex and slap the molex back in the door. DONE!
On the passanger side do the same except their is a wire from the cars side in the clip that goes no where on the doors side, I ut it back and taped it off to be safe. then just do the same as the drivers side door.
This was done on my MP3 and on a Protege 5 I worked on, Some cars may be different so if their is a wire on both side of the clip, DONT DRILL IT OUT! Also don't drill throught the center the retaining clips has to go through there to hold the two sides together.
August-22nd-2002, 10:29 AM
#2
Protege Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 45
Do we absolutely have to drill ??? There's no left space in that rubber tube ???
I plan to install Van Den Hul - Sky Line Hybrid wire (the blue one) if you want to view it look at http://www.vandenhul.com/cable/skyln-h.htm
I want to know if I will have to drill or not.
I guest that if you choose to drill that's because you've looked at other simplier solution, so I will have to drill, that's bad, I hate drilling in my car.
If you want to see my sub wire here it is http://www.vandenhul.com/cable/cs-122-h.htm
I plan to install Van Den Hul - Sky Line Hybrid wire (the blue one) if you want to view it look at http://www.vandenhul.com/cable/skyln-h.htm
I want to know if I will have to drill or not.
I guest that if you choose to drill that's because you've looked at other simplier solution, so I will have to drill, that's bad, I hate drilling in my car.
If you want to see my sub wire here it is http://www.vandenhul.com/cable/cs-122-h.htm
August-22nd-2002, 10:43 AM
#3
Protege Owner
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 720
the white molex consumes the opening in the sheet metal of the car and the rubber boot wrapps tightly around it so their is no area to pass by either thus you must go through them. Its realy no that diffuclut to do, you just drill out som plastic.
August-22nd-2002, 11:02 AM
#4
Protege Owner
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Oklahoma City OK- where it is flat
Posts: 487
Re: Running speaker wires into the doors
Originally posted by 1st MP3 in NH
Just as help to other. It is possible to run new speaker wires into our doors trough the molex so no drilling of metal is neccassary.
I ran 14 guage monster cable wire into mine. Basicly I ran wires directrly from the amp. At the molex, plastic white clips in the door jam, remove the rubber boot and use a pick to depress the rounded areas of the molex ot relaease it, Basiclty the 1,5,7,11 o'clock positions and the molex will come out. Their are 2 side of each molex so pull up a the top release tab and thay will come apart. In the left door their is a nice open area of 4 pins that are unused, drill them out I tok out 2 at a time with a 1/4 drill bit. untill the speaker wires fit throught. then in the same posistion on the cars side molex drill out the same area. Slap the clipps back together and make sure the wire fits through. When it fits runthe wire inside of the car up thought the hole of the molex in the sheet metal then trought the molex then the rubber boot into the door. Replace the boot on the molex and slap the molex back in the door. DONE!
On the passanger side do the same except their is a wire from the cars side in the clip that goes no where on the doors side, I ut it back and taped it off to be safe. then just do the same as the drivers side door.
This was done on my MP3 and on a Protege 5 I worked on, Some cars may be different so if their is a wire on both side of the clip, DONT DRILL IT OUT! Also don't drill throught the center the retaining clips has to go through there to hold the two sides together.
Just as help to other. It is possible to run new speaker wires into our doors trough the molex so no drilling of metal is neccassary.
I ran 14 guage monster cable wire into mine. Basicly I ran wires directrly from the amp. At the molex, plastic white clips in the door jam, remove the rubber boot and use a pick to depress the rounded areas of the molex ot relaease it, Basiclty the 1,5,7,11 o'clock positions and the molex will come out. Their are 2 side of each molex so pull up a the top release tab and thay will come apart. In the left door their is a nice open area of 4 pins that are unused, drill them out I tok out 2 at a time with a 1/4 drill bit. untill the speaker wires fit throught. then in the same posistion on the cars side molex drill out the same area. Slap the clipps back together and make sure the wire fits through. When it fits runthe wire inside of the car up thought the hole of the molex in the sheet metal then trought the molex then the rubber boot into the door. Replace the boot on the molex and slap the molex back in the door. DONE!
On the passanger side do the same except their is a wire from the cars side in the clip that goes no where on the doors side, I ut it back and taped it off to be safe. then just do the same as the drivers side door.
This was done on my MP3 and on a Protege 5 I worked on, Some cars may be different so if their is a wire on both side of the clip, DONT DRILL IT OUT! Also don't drill throught the center the retaining clips has to go through there to hold the two sides together.
This is what I had to do with my fronts to run Phoenix speaker wire....
It is teadious, but, if one takes their time, then it is easily doable...
August-22nd-2002, 11:04 AM
#5
Protege Owner
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Oklahoma City OK- where it is flat
Posts: 487
Originally posted by MageMinds
Do we absolutely have to drill ??? There's no left space in that rubber tube ???
I plan to install Van Den Hul - Sky Line Hybrid wire (the blue one) if you want to view it look at http://www.vandenhul.com/cable/skyln-h.htm
I want to know if I will have to drill or not.
I guest that if you choose to drill that's because you've looked at other simplier solution, so I will have to drill, that's bad, I hate drilling in my car.
If you want to see my sub wire here it is http://www.vandenhul.com/cable/cs-122-h.htm
Do we absolutely have to drill ??? There's no left space in that rubber tube ???
I plan to install Van Den Hul - Sky Line Hybrid wire (the blue one) if you want to view it look at http://www.vandenhul.com/cable/skyln-h.htm
I want to know if I will have to drill or not.
I guest that if you choose to drill that's because you've looked at other simplier solution, so I will have to drill, that's bad, I hate drilling in my car.
If you want to see my sub wire here it is http://www.vandenhul.com/cable/cs-122-h.htm
August-22nd-2002, 01:44 PM
#8
Protege Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 45
My setup isn't really impressive, but play very well for my ears...
I don't remember all parts number...
I will list items in order they are routed
Note that this setup isn't actually in my car, I'm waiting for the alarm/starter to be installed (back order).
HEAD UNIT : Kenwood KDC-7007 (No MP3, but 24 bit convertissor)
SOUND PROCESS : Phoenix Gold 15 Band EQ with active cross over
All RCA Cable are great quality, but the front amp RCA cable are directional one, they cost more, but they are "sound transparent".
FRONT SETUP
- AMP : Pioneer 4x65 Mosfet bridged to drive front speakers
- WIRE : Van Den Hul SKY LINE HYBRID from the trunk to front, even the tweeters have been rewired.
- Passive crossover Nakamichi
- MB Quart 7" Woofer
- Nakamichi Tweeter
SUB SETUP
- AMP : Orion Cobalt CO-465 4x65 Bridged 2 channel to drive sub
- WIRE : Van Den Hul CS-122
- SUB : JL Audio 10W3-D4 (Double 4Ohm voice coil)
- ENCLOSURE : MDF 3/4, Ported (don't remember the capacity, but correspond to JL Audio spec.)
POWER PLANT ;-)
- 4 guage high quality wire from battery with inline 65 amp fuse holder to fuse block distributor in trunk
- 8 guage from fuse block to amps (one per amp)
- Phoenix Gold 1.2 farad capacitor (4 guage)
- Ground from engine to body and battery to body have been upgraded to 4 guage high quality wire.
No; I don't have read speakers, they are removed to let the bass come in, I always sit front/driver anyway but if back filling is needed I will plant to buy speakers for rear door instead of back glass, this will slightly move the staging toward the center, but not as dramatically as if I put them rear, near the back glass that reflect every thing creating a little echo.
Anybody know if the speaker wiring for back door is factory done, if yes are they the same wire that those going in the trunk ?
MageMinds
I don't remember all parts number...
I will list items in order they are routed
Note that this setup isn't actually in my car, I'm waiting for the alarm/starter to be installed (back order).
HEAD UNIT : Kenwood KDC-7007 (No MP3, but 24 bit convertissor)
SOUND PROCESS : Phoenix Gold 15 Band EQ with active cross over
All RCA Cable are great quality, but the front amp RCA cable are directional one, they cost more, but they are "sound transparent".
FRONT SETUP
- AMP : Pioneer 4x65 Mosfet bridged to drive front speakers
- WIRE : Van Den Hul SKY LINE HYBRID from the trunk to front, even the tweeters have been rewired.
- Passive crossover Nakamichi
- MB Quart 7" Woofer
- Nakamichi Tweeter
SUB SETUP
- AMP : Orion Cobalt CO-465 4x65 Bridged 2 channel to drive sub
- WIRE : Van Den Hul CS-122
- SUB : JL Audio 10W3-D4 (Double 4Ohm voice coil)
- ENCLOSURE : MDF 3/4, Ported (don't remember the capacity, but correspond to JL Audio spec.)
POWER PLANT ;-)
- 4 guage high quality wire from battery with inline 65 amp fuse holder to fuse block distributor in trunk
- 8 guage from fuse block to amps (one per amp)
- Phoenix Gold 1.2 farad capacitor (4 guage)
- Ground from engine to body and battery to body have been upgraded to 4 guage high quality wire.
No; I don't have read speakers, they are removed to let the bass come in, I always sit front/driver anyway but if back filling is needed I will plant to buy speakers for rear door instead of back glass, this will slightly move the staging toward the center, but not as dramatically as if I put them rear, near the back glass that reflect every thing creating a little echo.
Anybody know if the speaker wiring for back door is factory done, if yes are they the same wire that those going in the trunk ?
MageMinds
August-26th-2002, 02:48 PM
#9
Protege Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 45
Re: Running speaker wires into the doors
Originally posted by 1st MP3 in NH
Just as help to other. It is possible to run new speaker wires into our doors trough the molex so no drilling of metal is neccassary.
I ran 14 guage monster cable wire into mine. Basicly I ran wires directrly from the amp. At the molex, plastic white clips in the door jam, remove the rubber boot and use a pick to depress the rounded areas of the molex ot relaease it, Basiclty the 1,5,7,11 o'clock positions and the molex will come out. Their are 2 side of each molex so pull up a the top release tab and thay will come apart. In the left door their is a nice open area of 4 pins that are unused, drill them out I tok out 2 at a time with a 1/4 drill bit. untill the speaker wires fit throught. then in the same posistion on the cars side molex drill out the same area. Slap the clipps back together and make sure the wire fits through. When it fits runthe wire inside of the car up thought the hole of the molex in the sheet metal then trought the molex then the rubber boot into the door. Replace the boot on the molex and slap the molex back in the door. DONE!
On the passanger side do the same except their is a wire from the cars side in the clip that goes no where on the doors side, I ut it back and taped it off to be safe. then just do the same as the drivers side door.
This was done on my MP3 and on a Protege 5 I worked on, Some cars may be different so if their is a wire on both side of the clip, DONT DRILL IT OUT! Also don't drill throught the center the retaining clips has to go through there to hold the two sides together.
Just as help to other. It is possible to run new speaker wires into our doors trough the molex so no drilling of metal is neccassary.
I ran 14 guage monster cable wire into mine. Basicly I ran wires directrly from the amp. At the molex, plastic white clips in the door jam, remove the rubber boot and use a pick to depress the rounded areas of the molex ot relaease it, Basiclty the 1,5,7,11 o'clock positions and the molex will come out. Their are 2 side of each molex so pull up a the top release tab and thay will come apart. In the left door their is a nice open area of 4 pins that are unused, drill them out I tok out 2 at a time with a 1/4 drill bit. untill the speaker wires fit throught. then in the same posistion on the cars side molex drill out the same area. Slap the clipps back together and make sure the wire fits through. When it fits runthe wire inside of the car up thought the hole of the molex in the sheet metal then trought the molex then the rubber boot into the door. Replace the boot on the molex and slap the molex back in the door. DONE!
On the passanger side do the same except their is a wire from the cars side in the clip that goes no where on the doors side, I ut it back and taped it off to be safe. then just do the same as the drivers side door.
This was done on my MP3 and on a Protege 5 I worked on, Some cars may be different so if their is a wire on both side of the clip, DONT DRILL IT OUT! Also don't drill throught the center the retaining clips has to go through there to hold the two sides together.
Thanks for the info by the way!
November-30th-2002, 09:05 PM
#11
Protege Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: San Diego
Posts: 31
Re: Running speaker wires into the doors
Originally posted by 1st MP3 in NH
Just as help to other. It is possible to run new speaker wires into our doors trough the molex so no drilling of metal is neccassary.
I ran 14 guage monster cable wire into mine. Basicly I ran wires directrly from the amp. At the molex, plastic white clips in the door jam, remove the rubber boot and use a pick to depress the rounded areas of the molex ot relaease it, Basiclty the 1,5,7,11 o'clock positions and the molex will come out. Their are 2 side of each molex so pull up a the top release tab and thay will come apart. In the left door their is a nice open area of 4 pins that are unused, drill them out I tok out 2 at a time with a 1/4 drill bit. untill the speaker wires fit throught. then in the same posistion on the cars side molex drill out the same area. Slap the clipps back together and make sure the wire fits through. When it fits runthe wire inside of the car up thought the hole of the molex in the sheet metal then trought the molex then the rubber boot into the door. Replace the boot on the molex and slap the molex back in the door. DONE!
On the passanger side do the same except their is a wire from the cars side in the clip that goes no where on the doors side, I ut it back and taped it off to be safe. then just do the same as the drivers side door.
This was done on my MP3 and on a Protege 5 I worked on, Some cars may be different so if their is a wire on both side of the clip, DONT DRILL IT OUT! Also don't drill throught the center the retaining clips has to go through there to hold the two sides together.
Just as help to other. It is possible to run new speaker wires into our doors trough the molex so no drilling of metal is neccassary.
I ran 14 guage monster cable wire into mine. Basicly I ran wires directrly from the amp. At the molex, plastic white clips in the door jam, remove the rubber boot and use a pick to depress the rounded areas of the molex ot relaease it, Basiclty the 1,5,7,11 o'clock positions and the molex will come out. Their are 2 side of each molex so pull up a the top release tab and thay will come apart. In the left door their is a nice open area of 4 pins that are unused, drill them out I tok out 2 at a time with a 1/4 drill bit. untill the speaker wires fit throught. then in the same posistion on the cars side molex drill out the same area. Slap the clipps back together and make sure the wire fits through. When it fits runthe wire inside of the car up thought the hole of the molex in the sheet metal then trought the molex then the rubber boot into the door. Replace the boot on the molex and slap the molex back in the door. DONE!
On the passanger side do the same except their is a wire from the cars side in the clip that goes no where on the doors side, I ut it back and taped it off to be safe. then just do the same as the drivers side door.
This was done on my MP3 and on a Protege 5 I worked on, Some cars may be different so if their is a wire on both side of the clip, DONT DRILL IT OUT! Also don't drill throught the center the retaining clips has to go through there to hold the two sides together.
I've really gotta say thanks for this info. It helped me out big time today while I was replacing the stock speakers, and wiring them from my amp. Once I got the door panel off, I looked at the harness taking up the whole area where the wires run through and thought I was going to have to use the stock wires.
I did a search and found this thread, though, and it saved my ***.
Thanks a bunch!!!
December-3rd-2002, 12:24 AM
#13
Protege Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: San Diego
Posts: 31
Originally posted by 1st MP3 in NH
Glad to hear it helped, what size wire did you get into the door?
Glad to hear it helped, what size wire did you get into the door?
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