capn_krotch

I was installing my new set of Infinity reference components in the front doors today and ran into a little problem. the right speaker was sounding terrible so i broke out the voltmeter. figured out the positive wire wasn't continuous through the door. Now i need to run a wire into the door. Wish i could pull out the defective positive speaker wire but thats wound w/ the rest of the wires going into the door so thats out of the question. Any suggestions on how to get this wire in there? Thanks

-alex

MisterT

It's a pain in the *** let me tell you. I used factory wires for my 6 1/2 midbass in the doors. If you are sure it is defective, then the dealership should have it fixed for you. Then you won't have to worry about trying to run it through. It really makes no difference in sound (the high gauge factory wire versus a lower gauge aftermarket wire). I tried running wire through the rubber sleeve where wires run through for speaker and controls to doors and locks, etc., but it was more work than it was worth, so I used factory. I wish I had better information than that.

MisterT

Aydu

I noticed you have an after market head unit. Might be good to verify that the connection problem isn't in your wiring harness between your stereo and the car wiring harness.

I'm guessing that you've verified that the speaker itself is ok.

If your old speakers sounded ok, you might have damaged the door wiring when you installed the new speakers. If so, I'd guess the dealer would blame the problem on your work, rather than a defect in the workmanship or parts of the car.

If you plan to use the dealer for warranty repair, it would be best if you replaced the factory speakers.

If you drilled into the door to mount the tweeter of the new components, that might not be an option.

Too bad the wiring in the doors is so difficult to swap out, and that the factory wiring is about the size of dental floss.

capn_krotch

well i got it all working today. I must have damaged the wire when i was fiddling with it behind the headunit - pulled a little too hard. Thats why the dealer wasn't really an option.

I tried both speakers in that door so i knew the speaker was fine. I also checked for continuity the whole way through the various harnesses behind the HU. The problem was somewhere in the dash or going through the door.

i pulled off that rubber tube running into the door covering the wires. the wire was fine from there to the inside of the door. then i noticed the panel that's right under the A-pillar parallel to the door came off. with that off, i had some kinda of access to the wires before they entered the rubber tube. stuck a pin into the red one and it was still continuous into the door. now i thought i was screwed cuz the problem was somewhere inside the dash - where i couldn't get to it. then it hit me that i could just cut the wire right where it came into the car behind that panel where i could get to it and run it to the back of the HU. Worked like a charm

the speakers sing very nicely but now i got 2 new problems. (1) I cant get that rubber tube back onto the clip that it sits on going into the body of the car and (2) the power lock in that door doesn't work anymore. I can use tape on the tube for a nice watertight fit so the wires dont get wet but the second problem isn't so easily fixed. I must have messed up the power lock wires when i was fiddling with the ones just inside the door. and this time, i have no idea where the power lock mechanism is if i needed to run new wires. perhaps i will take it to the dealership for this.

i think the problem with running wires into the door is that they go into a clip before they go into the rubber tube. so putting an extra wire or two into the tube is much easier said than done. i actually have no idea how somebody would go about doing that.

thanks for the suggestions guys. i ended up not needing them but i appreciate the help - thanks

-alex

MisterT

When you take your door panels off, you have to unplug some wires (2 on mine for doorlocks and windows). You must have left one unplugged to the doorlocks. You ought to remove it again and check and see. Are you talking about the plastic splashguards? If you can do without tunes for a day, you could seal them on the back of your speakers via liquid nails silicone (Walmart) or something that can withstand the environmental elements. Tape will lose it's adhesiveness if it gets wet or goes from hot to dry climates throughout the year. Liquid nails comes in a squeeze container, so you don't need a silicone gun for it and make a mess I doubt crazy glue would work as it doesn't seem to want to stick to any thing (other than clamping your fingers together!

MisterT

capn_krotch

yeah, the passenger door panel only has one plug - the one for the power windows. thats definetly in place cuz the window goes up and down. the driver side door has 3. one for the power windows, another for the mirrors and a third small one for the power locks. i know all 3 are in place because all of those features work. i'm gonna check out the shop manual for my car and see what i can do, maybe play with the voltmeter again.

ur right about the tape losing its stickyness. i think i have some liquid nails laying around, i'll give that a shot.

thanks
-alex

Aydu

I ran into a problem with my power mirrors after my door speakers were installed. Turned out that the connector wasn't fully snapped into place when the door panel was replaced. Took it apart and reconnected it and worked like a champ.

Assuming you didn't really pull on the wires during the removal of the door panels, you might just have a loose connector inside the door for the locks. I'd pull the panel off and reset the connector to the switch.

Also, check fuses, to make sure it isn't something really simple like a blown fuse that occurred during the installation. I just hate it when I spend a ton of time trouble shooting things, only to find out that had I started with the basics, I would have had the problem fixed right upfront.

Glad you got your speaker wiring fixed.

capn_krotch

i'll check the connector next time i get a chance. but i know its not a fuse because the power locks work on every door except that one. thanks again

-alex

capn_krotch

haven't worked on the locks yet but noticed one more problem u guys might be able to help me with.

at low volumes, i hear a low buzzing coming from the right tweeter - the door i had problems with. its very low freequency so its almost like a really rapid clicking buzzing type noise. when i put the volume more than halfway up, i cant hear it anymore.

before i pull off the door panel for the millionth time to play with the connections, is there anything u guys think could cause this?

thanks again
-alex

MisterT

You are using Infinity 5x7 components or coaxials (two way with tweeter built in)? I ask because I know Infinity makes both. If it is a coaxial, are you using factory tweeter? I ask because someone previously tried running their coaxials along with the factory tweeters and was experiencing similar problems until he disconnected the tweeters.

MisterT

capn_krotch

they are components.

MisterT

They are rated at 90 watts RMS. What kind of power do you have running to them? Also, you mentioned the clicking noise stops when volume is turned up? Are you sure it is stopped or is it drowned out by the music. I had the same problem with my front speakers and come to find out, it was a faulty component (line driver was causing that and alternator whine). After removing it, it went away. Are you using power from your head unit or a separate amplifier?

capn_krotch

Its running on 25 watts RMS from the head unit. I'm really not sure if its drowned out or it goes away but i'd bet its drowned out. thx for the tips man, i'm gonna take the panel off today and play w/ the connections to see if it goes away.

-alex

workaholic2001

There is a white connector plug on the side that goes to the body, underneeth the black boot covering the wires. you have to take two small screwdrivers and work that clip from the top, the side, and the bottom. The other side, that you cant see should free up and allow you to remove the harness from the body. This body splits in half, connector stle and in there you will find dirty connections, clean out, snap back together with di electric grease on the connections and put the boot on before you snap the connector back into the body

madduck99

i found this at another protege website, i hope it helps, http://www.msprotege.com/vbb225/show...8&goto=newpost