Thanks for the compliment. If you added an amp rack with some neon, yours would be the ****! You could place a piece of board on the top to conceal the bulb so it won't be visible and later do some plexiglass and some fans to keep it cool.

MisterT

 

nah, no plexiglass for me... no neon either. the amp's logo is backlit - it's cool! we'll see.... I got plenty of other stuff to think about right now.

I will surely add a fan though.

 

mmmm plexi glass.... mmm neon... mmm I want to redo my whole sound system now!

 

I haven't posted pics in a long time, so...

 

I ran the power wire, the RCA cable, and the telephone cable.
The battery terminals will get here tomorrow and I'll complete the power wiring (+12V). I don't have a ring terminal for the GND yet.

I will buy some 10 gauge power wire for the HU, but someone please tell me how to do this. Just crimp the power wire from the HU to the 10 gauge and run it to the battery? Then do the same for the GND wire of the HU's harness and bolt it to the chasis somewhere?

I got the idea of how to make my amp rack. I will probably go to Home Depot tomorrow and get some wood.. I'll try to do it over the weekend.

That's it for today. Tomorrow is a big day - I'm finally going to test the sub (at moderate levels). I got a big green sheet of paper saying that I should not stress it for at least a week.

 

What kind of head unit do you have? Alpine with the optional 10 gauge hook up if you are using the deck's power? I would do just that then. Run it straight to the battery (does it have an inline fuse)? Ground on the chassis will be fine. I know there is a screw hole in the back so you can ground it to the rear of the head unit, but then you will need a small enough flat head screw to do so.

MisterT

 

It's an Alpine 9807. I plan on getting the 9815 later on )once I finish working on the sub/amp)...

PS, I don't have any other amps - I am using the HU's amp to its fullest potential - running 4 speakers from it.

 

OMG, what's up people? Where is everybody? I feel so lonely.

I got the battery terminals. They're quite heavy.

I'm going down to the car now... testing soon.

 

Battery terminals from Knuconceptz? I love mine. No problems with stripping of threads like Rider69 had. They look great, just need a bigger battery since they are bigger terminals. Earlier, I emailed you from work on my lunch hour.

MisterT

 

emailed me? I didn't get no email from you.

 

My terminals:





The terminal has a blue transparent cover, but I removed it for the pics....

Right now I'm soldering the speaker wire to the speaker-terminal cup. Then I'll go fix the battery terminal, and I should be ready to test the sub once I ground the amp. I still need a 4 gauge ring terminal.

 

I tried installing my new battery terminal, but I could not because the stock cable that goes to the positive terminal is too short to reach the new terminal.

What am I supposed to do? Is there a "standard" procedure for this?

PS, I started a new thread about this cuz I want a quick answer

 

Two things on crimping 4 gauge terminals. Either use a vice grip which mine broke in the process of my groundkit. Or hammer it down with a hammer and you can use the rubber sleeve to hide it. Either way, they work wonders and insure the wires from coming bare.

MisterT

 

the 10 gauge wire is actually a little tricky on the alpine wiring harness... they tell you to run 10 gauge wiring kit with an inline 25 or 30 amp fuse (my fleeting memory will be the death of me). while it makes sense to run a power wire to the harness, 10 gauge is overkill, considering that the wires on the wiring harness are 14 to 18 gauge wire (can't remember that either ). i haven't figured out how i'm going to wire my head unit with an 8 gauge and a 4 gauge kit when i get my amp and distribution blocks (thats when i actually have money to spend... been blowing it on other upgrades), but ideally, for the v-drive amp, a 10 gauge kit is recommended, and if you're using the alpine harness, it's the Yellow Positive Power wire. as for the ground, i was told the stock ground was sufficient enough considering the amount of grounds the harness eventually hits, essentially his point being that the wiring harness will eventually hit 6 to 8 wires to get a ground from when the v-drive amp is turned on. i'd just say use a vampire tap on the harness' ground wire, a 14 gauge wire running from the vampire tap and just ground it with a screw connected to the chasis under the dash somewhere. also, some alpine head units come with noise filters built in... this is a valuable asset and if i'm right, should go on the positive wire somehow... not too sure on this matter. hope this helps.
peace

 

demoninvictus, thanks man, that info will be helpful once I start doing the job.