Adding subs to P5 factory modular HU
April-22nd-2003, 06:18 AM
#16
Master of All Things :{D
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: southeast texas, near houston
Posts: 4,118
Re: Re: Adding subs to P5 factory modular HU
Originally posted by 4 rubBeR
FWIW, I plan on using a line out converter (LOC) to convert the speaker out to an RCA out. I have heard through a number of Protege Owner Club members have had great success using their existing deck.
~4 rubBeR
FWIW, I plan on using a line out converter (LOC) to convert the speaker out to an RCA out. I have heard through a number of Protege Owner Club members have had great success using their existing deck.
~4 rubBeR
April-25th-2003, 01:56 AM
#17
get orvillized! WTF?
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: I am here --> x
Posts: 948
Originally posted by 4 rubBeR
Well, if its anything like the front door speakers, then you have to remove the entire interior pannel. Its not too difficult. I used this info to remove the front door pannel.Front speaker install You may find it useful...
~4 rubBeR
Well, if its anything like the front door speakers, then you have to remove the entire interior pannel. Its not too difficult. I used this info to remove the front door pannel.Front speaker install You may find it useful...
~4 rubBeR
April-25th-2003, 10:04 AM
#18
Protege Owner
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Oklahoma City OK- where it is flat
Posts: 487
ah old subjects are new again.
A couple of the top rated audio competition cars I have ever seen have used the stock head units, not aftermarket.
A headunit is a signal source- it provide a signal to be amplified. Way back in the time of dinos there were differences you could hear in cassette decks, mostly to do with pinch rollers and dolby, but not now.
With CD's the source signal you get are simply better than our ability as humans to hear as having any difference. The signal to noise, frequency response and distortion are so good respectively that it is impossible to discern the difference between a good stock headunit and an aftermarket unit if both are set to true flat signals. Folks I trust have tested this out and I have done some play in my little shop with it and I agree.
The Mazda headunit is a fine signal source, it's amplification is what is wanting. I think is have been mentioned in the thread, but just look at components and think about it for a moment- how can four little IC amp chips in the headunit chassis compare to the circut topology of a decent amp the size of a book (at least). Outboard amps are generally better bacause there is more room for more descrete ciruit layout and design.
On LOCs- I love em personally. You can find them as cheap as you want, or as expensive as you can stomach. I keep Navone LOCs around in my shop for use, and swear by them. A LOC is not an active component, it requires no power of it's own. Mostly a LOC is a few resistors to step down a signal to lower wattage.
I prefer the use of LOCs but line level out amps work just fine also. Low voltage outs actually have less inherent noise and hiss, but are more suspectable to getting sound injection from the atmosphere they are installed in.
From what I have read so far about the add on sub for the Protege, it will probably be better than nothing, but still not up to a clean basic no frills aftermarket install. While the audio package that came in the mazdaspeed is better than stock, it is still woefully short of impressive.
I will have to play with one of the new subs when it comes out....
A couple of the top rated audio competition cars I have ever seen have used the stock head units, not aftermarket.
A headunit is a signal source- it provide a signal to be amplified. Way back in the time of dinos there were differences you could hear in cassette decks, mostly to do with pinch rollers and dolby, but not now.
With CD's the source signal you get are simply better than our ability as humans to hear as having any difference. The signal to noise, frequency response and distortion are so good respectively that it is impossible to discern the difference between a good stock headunit and an aftermarket unit if both are set to true flat signals. Folks I trust have tested this out and I have done some play in my little shop with it and I agree.
The Mazda headunit is a fine signal source, it's amplification is what is wanting. I think is have been mentioned in the thread, but just look at components and think about it for a moment- how can four little IC amp chips in the headunit chassis compare to the circut topology of a decent amp the size of a book (at least). Outboard amps are generally better bacause there is more room for more descrete ciruit layout and design.
On LOCs- I love em personally. You can find them as cheap as you want, or as expensive as you can stomach. I keep Navone LOCs around in my shop for use, and swear by them. A LOC is not an active component, it requires no power of it's own. Mostly a LOC is a few resistors to step down a signal to lower wattage.
I prefer the use of LOCs but line level out amps work just fine also. Low voltage outs actually have less inherent noise and hiss, but are more suspectable to getting sound injection from the atmosphere they are installed in.
From what I have read so far about the add on sub for the Protege, it will probably be better than nothing, but still not up to a clean basic no frills aftermarket install. While the audio package that came in the mazdaspeed is better than stock, it is still woefully short of impressive.
I will have to play with one of the new subs when it comes out....
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