3rd Gen Protege/MazdaSpeed/P5/MP3 General/Maintenance Discussion for 1999-2003.5 Models Only (BJ Chassis)

AEM Short Stack Intake?

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Old February-26th-2002, 06:57 AM
  #61  
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If an intake is the only mod you are doing to the engine, you probably will not see 10 HP. If you add an exhaust to the car, you will be more likely to get better numbers with all the parts working together. AND THAT is just it, all the mods you do to an engine will work better TOGETHER rather than by themselves.
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Old February-26th-2002, 11:04 AM
  #62  
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Exactly I hope they are not expecting stellar performance on just a intake upgrade. As for me I would rather be safe then sorry that is why I put an AEM bypass on my Injen CAI. just click on my website button to see. I would rather not take a chance as to how much water I am going to come up against.
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Old February-26th-2002, 01:30 PM
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Originally posted by jcilforever
Exactly I hope they are not expecting stellar performance on just a intake upgrade. As for me I would rather be safe then sorry that is why I put an AEM bypass on my Injen CAI. just click on my website button to see. I would rather not take a chance as to how much water I am going to come up against.
In regards to getting water in the engine, would I still have that possiblity with the Short Ram Ractive? I've always been a little worried about that? If there is the possiblity, would a heat shield help, from not allowing that much water get in?

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Old February-26th-2002, 02:05 PM
  #64  
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And your $0.02 is absolutely correct. Somewhere some marketing person at AEM is sitting in a nice big office collecting a fat check because of the raise they got from their excellent marketing job on the AEM bypass valve. If you guys won't take anyone's word for the extremely unlikely event of either intake sucking up enough
water to cause hydro lock in a cylinder, think about this. How many people do you know, or have direct knowledge of, that have damaged an engine because of water intake? How did we ever get along before AEM's invention of the bypass valve? How do those lucky few early buyers of the bypass valve feel about their defective bypass valves dropping springs and other parts into their cylinders?
Think about what needs to happen to suck up enough water to damage your engine. First, you need a considerable amount of vacuum, after all, water doesn't usually have a habit of defying gravity and jumping off the ground and into your engine, now does it? Vacuum increases with engine RPM, so you need higher engine RPM to generate enough vacuum to do the water defying gravity trick right? Second, it would take a larger volume of water than the volume of one combustion chamber at TDC to do damage. Your intake is connected to all four of your cylinders, so it's not likely that any water ingested is going to pick a single cylinder to pick on right? Third, your engine gets hot when it's running, heat is a nasty byproduct of controlled gasoline explosions after all. The closer you get to the cylinders, the hotter it is. So the water needs to escape evaporation and stay in liquid form to damage right? Liquid can't be compressed after all, but gasses can. Fourth, the intake has several barriers to water making it into the intake tube. The filter, gravity, various other parts being in the way, etc. So to sum up, how many of you have a habit of redlining your engines in puddles as deep as your bumpers? Raise your hands.
While I'm at it, neither intake is going to make more than 2 to 3 peak wheel HP by itself. Show me a dyno to prove otherwise. Check out Racing Beats site for more info.




Originally posted by Sir Nuke
Okay think about it guys....LOOK at those pictures of the short ram.....look where the air filter cone is....its at the BOTTOM of the engine compartment.....if you think you are going to have a problem with sucking up water with an INJEN CAI....you will certainly have the same problem with the AEM. if you were to look where the cone filter ends up with the Injen, its in a pocket in the front fender well protected from the elements, AND away from the heat of the radiator, the transmission, the exhaust, and any other heat source from the engine compmartment, Personally I believe that the use of the bypass valve is a waste of time and money....unless you find yourself driving your car through a lot of water...deep water too. Not to mention the only way you are going to get water in there is to either be driving though some seriously deep water....or trying to wash your car with a 2 1/2 inch fire hose while the engine is running.

sorry...but I had to put in my .02
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Old February-26th-2002, 02:29 PM
  #65  
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AMEN!!!
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Old February-26th-2002, 02:42 PM
  #66  
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Thanks, sorry that post was so long, but it's time for people to think about some of the parts they're buying.
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Old February-26th-2002, 08:47 PM
  #67  
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i installed just the AEM short ram intake, and so far no problems, ive driven my car through a rain storm, and taken my car through a car wash (the big test) and i haven't had any problems with it, the nice thing about the AEM short ram is that it sits right behind the radiator fans so cool are is being blown onto it
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Old February-26th-2002, 09:17 PM
  #68  
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After air passes through the radiator it isn't very cool anymore.
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Old February-26th-2002, 09:27 PM
  #69  
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Originally posted by Eric F
And your $0.02 is absolutely correct. Somewhere some marketing person at AEM is sitting in a nice big office collecting a fat check because of the raise they got from their excellent marketing job on the AEM bypass valve. If you guys won't take anyone's word for the extremely unlikely event of either intake sucking up enough
water to cause hydro lock in a cylinder, think about this. How many people do you know, or have direct knowledge of, that have damaged an engine because of water intake? How did we ever get along before AEM's invention of the bypass valve? How do those lucky few early buyers of the bypass valve feel about their defective bypass valves dropping springs and other parts into their cylinders?
Think about what needs to happen to suck up enough water to damage your engine. First, you need a considerable amount of vacuum, after all, water doesn't usually have a habit of defying gravity and jumping off the ground and into your engine, now does it? Vacuum increases with engine RPM, so you need higher engine RPM to generate enough vacuum to do the water defying gravity trick right? Second, it would take a larger volume of water than the volume of one combustion chamber at TDC to do damage. Your intake is connected to all four of your cylinders, so it's not likely that any water ingested is going to pick a single cylinder to pick on right? Third, your engine gets hot when it's running, heat is a nasty byproduct of controlled gasoline explosions after all. The closer you get to the cylinders, the hotter it is. So the water needs to escape evaporation and stay in liquid form to damage right? Liquid can't be compressed after all, but gasses can. Fourth, the intake has several barriers to water making it into the intake tube. The filter, gravity, various other parts being in the way, etc. So to sum up, how many of you have a habit of redlining your engines in puddles as deep as your bumpers? Raise your hands.
While I'm at it, neither intake is going to make more than 2 to 3 peak wheel HP by itself. Show me a dyno to prove otherwise. Check out Racing Beats site for more info.

Damn that was good. Funny too.
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Old February-26th-2002, 09:51 PM
  #70  
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Originally posted by Eric F
After air passes through the radiator it isn't very cool anymore.
i live in canada doesn't really matter anyways


here is a pic if your wondering what we are taking about


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Old February-26th-2002, 10:00 PM
  #71  
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Yeah, it looks familiar. I have one just like it but blue. I like it mostly because it cleans up the engine compartment. The stock intake takes up too much space, I'll probably move the battery to the trunk also.
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