curious to know what engine oil you guys use
#31
Originally posted by midnightblue97
Was the cause of the keyway failure because the crank pulley came loose??
My brother had to put 3 engines in his Miata (1.6) because of that in the last year.
Was the cause of the keyway failure because the crank pulley came loose??
My brother had to put 3 engines in his Miata (1.6) because of that in the last year.
I wish I had had a digicam when I still had the engine, to take some pictures to post, as it was pretty dramatic.
#33
Originally posted by beachnut
Anyone else have any comments about switching to synthetics at 155K miles? Like the previous poster, I've been told I shouldn't do it either. On my first oil change since I bought the car at 153K, I used 10w30 Durablend (semi-syn). I really noticed how much quieter the engine was. I used to have a bit of lifter tap when I first started it for like 10 seconds, that's gone too. I'd like to go full syn on my next change, Mobil 1, maybe even Redline.
Anyone else have any comments about switching to synthetics at 155K miles? Like the previous poster, I've been told I shouldn't do it either. On my first oil change since I bought the car at 153K, I used 10w30 Durablend (semi-syn). I really noticed how much quieter the engine was. I used to have a bit of lifter tap when I first started it for like 10 seconds, that's gone too. I'd like to go full syn on my next change, Mobil 1, maybe even Redline.
My opinion then is just to use regular oil with a badly maintained vehicle - IF its been well cared for, then you *may* be able to use synthetics with no problems....
#34
Thanks Jason! Actually my Pro was well looked after in the oil change department. The guy I bought it from gave me receipts for every single oil change at 3K intervals from the day he drove it brand new off the dealer lot! You don't see that very often, eh?! I'm thinking though that I'll just stick with the Durablend for now. It's *mostly* dino oil with a splash of synthetic. That little bit of syn must've been just enough to quiet my lifters down, but hopefully not too much to give me any of the problems you've experienced.
#35
Better check your viscosity...
I saw in some posts that a few are using really wide viscosity oils such as 10W- or 20W-50. For most Mazda applications, Gro Harlem is correct that 10W-30 is the spec'ed oil. Most manufacturers caution against using wide viscosity oils like 10W-50, as they do not stand up well, and the high level of additives break down quickly. Always check the owner's manual or shop manual as a starting point.
#36
Wide viscositys ( 5w-50, 20w-50) when in a synthetic oil do not break down under driving conditions. in dino oils they will, but you'll be safe with synth.
A synthetic oil will be much better to run in all viscosities as long as the engine was well maintained. I hear of people switching to mobil 1 and then there car leaks oil, so if you have never used synth and have not taken good care of the engine, this may happen.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I bvelieve the first number in the dual rate oils such as th 10 in 10w-30 is for cold temp, so the oil pours like a straight wait 10 oil when cold, but has the viscosity effect of a 30 weight oil.
Also running a good filter is VERY important. I use a Purolator PURE ONE . they have an anti-drainback valve which is a nice feature plus they have awesome filtration all for a bout $6. the regular white purolators are great too if you don't want to spend quite as much. stay away from Fram if you can, they're quite crappy. open one up and look at the element. then open a puoralor . Plus I think purolator supplys the OEM oil filter.
oh yeah, I run mobil 1 15w-50 year round in both the pro and the RX-7
A synthetic oil will be much better to run in all viscosities as long as the engine was well maintained. I hear of people switching to mobil 1 and then there car leaks oil, so if you have never used synth and have not taken good care of the engine, this may happen.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I bvelieve the first number in the dual rate oils such as th 10 in 10w-30 is for cold temp, so the oil pours like a straight wait 10 oil when cold, but has the viscosity effect of a 30 weight oil.
Also running a good filter is VERY important. I use a Purolator PURE ONE . they have an anti-drainback valve which is a nice feature plus they have awesome filtration all for a bout $6. the regular white purolators are great too if you don't want to spend quite as much. stay away from Fram if you can, they're quite crappy. open one up and look at the element. then open a puoralor . Plus I think purolator supplys the OEM oil filter.
oh yeah, I run mobil 1 15w-50 year round in both the pro and the RX-7
Last edited by Enthu; January-7th-2003 at 09:01 PM.
#38
Originally posted by Enthu
Also running a good filter is VERY important. I use a Purolator PURE ONE . they have an anti-drainback valve which is a nice feature plus they have awesome filtration all for a bout $6. the regular white purolators are great too if you don't want to spend quite as much. stay away from Fram if you can, they're quite crappy. open one up and look at the element. then open a puoralor . Plus I think purolator supplys the OEM oil filter.
oh yeah, I run mobil 1 15w-50 year round in both the pro and the RX-7
Also running a good filter is VERY important. I use a Purolator PURE ONE . they have an anti-drainback valve which is a nice feature plus they have awesome filtration all for a bout $6. the regular white purolators are great too if you don't want to spend quite as much. stay away from Fram if you can, they're quite crappy. open one up and look at the element. then open a puoralor . Plus I think purolator supplys the OEM oil filter.
oh yeah, I run mobil 1 15w-50 year round in both the pro and the RX-7
I run Valvoline Semi-syn 20W-50. Our climate is 31C or 88F all year round so I use thicker oil.
#39
Originally posted by B8 Turbo
If I were you, I'd use the OEM Mazda oil filter for a peace of mind. Then again, it's just my 2 cents.
If I were you, I'd use the OEM Mazda oil filter for a peace of mind. Then again, it's just my 2 cents.
Purolator Pure One filters(blue) and regular premium (white) plus do have them. I believe Bosch filters may have them , but @ $8 the OEM and pure ones are a better value anyway! and again I believe the OEM filters are produced by purolator
Last edited by Enthu; January-10th-2003 at 12:30 AM.
#40
Originally posted by Enthu
difference between Mazda OEM filters and most aftermarkets is the anti-drainback valve. OEM has it, almost all aftermarkets don't.
Purolator Pure One filters do have them. I believe Bosch filters may have them , but @ $8 the OEM and pure ones are a better value anyway! and again I believe the OEM filters are produced by purolator
difference between Mazda OEM filters and most aftermarkets is the anti-drainback valve. OEM has it, almost all aftermarkets don't.
Purolator Pure One filters do have them. I believe Bosch filters may have them , but @ $8 the OEM and pure ones are a better value anyway! and again I believe the OEM filters are produced by purolator
#41
Originally posted by Enthu
but @ $8 the OEM and pure ones are a better value anyway!
but @ $8 the OEM and pure ones are a better value anyway!
I meant the Bosch was $8, not the mazda and purolator. the mazda is about the same price , just under $5, the purolator (white) is $4 and same as OEM, Purolator Pure One (blue) is $6.
sorry, i need to make my self clearer on future posts.
#42
What kind of products does jiffy lube use?
I've only driven the car enough for one oil change, and I was lazy and used jiffy lube. I bet the oil filter is crappy.
SOHC
I'm gonna put in Valvoline 5w30 (read the manual for the suggested viscosities guys), I'll look for higher dino style oil, maybe with some synthetic, but not full syn. The puro or OEM filter for the next change. I'll do it myself this time.
edit: ps guys be careful of what oil additives you use...a lot are detrimental (slick 50, etc).
I've only driven the car enough for one oil change, and I was lazy and used jiffy lube. I bet the oil filter is crappy.
SOHC
I'm gonna put in Valvoline 5w30 (read the manual for the suggested viscosities guys), I'll look for higher dino style oil, maybe with some synthetic, but not full syn. The puro or OEM filter for the next change. I'll do it myself this time.
edit: ps guys be careful of what oil additives you use...a lot are detrimental (slick 50, etc).
Last edited by UCSBgeek; January-9th-2003 at 11:27 PM.
#43
Originally posted by Chastan
What kind of products does jiffy lube use?
I've only driven the car enough for one oil change, and I was lazy and used jiffy lube. I bet the oil filter is crappy.
What kind of products does jiffy lube use?
I've only driven the car enough for one oil change, and I was lazy and used jiffy lube. I bet the oil filter is crappy.
[i]
edit: ps guys be careful of what oil additives you use...a lot are detrimental (slick 50, etc). [/B]
edit: ps guys be careful of what oil additives you use...a lot are detrimental (slick 50, etc). [/B]
And did you guys know Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec are not full synthetic? they do actually have some mineral oil in them. back in like the late 90's company X( i forget whether is was castrol or mobil) changed there formula to include some dino oil. Company Y then filed a lawsuit against X. Y lost the case, then changed there formula to include some dino oil.
Amsoil, Royal Purple, and Redline are true full Synthetics.
Last edited by Enthu; January-9th-2003 at 11:56 PM.
#44
I found this link, take a look at it, it's helpful, or try searching google for oil additives
http://skepdic.com/slick50.html
http://skepdic.com/slick50.html
#45
I read that link and there was useful info. I have been using the MMO to clean my car up. the previous owner didn't take the greatest care. I plan to use 2 quarts through it, then stop use but once every several months. I don't see MMO as being hazardous as much as others mentioned, but still over use of it i don't doubt would cause problems.
there was no mention of Linkite though, if anyone has info on that please do post it up.
there was no mention of Linkite though, if anyone has info on that please do post it up.