FDS needs help changing his brake pads!
March-8th-2003, 11:27 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: PA
Posts: 2,339
FDS needs help changing his brake pads!
I got some pads today, mine are shot. I've never done it before so I was following the manual very carefully. The problem that I'm having is that I can only replace the inner pads on each side (I'm replacing the front pads).
The outer pads are SO worn, they are almost stuck up again the rotor. I don't see how I'm supposed to get them out of the in the first place, and even if I do, how am I supposed to get the much thicker new pads in? The only thing I could think of would be removing the caliper, but I'm not up to that task. WTF is going on here????
The outer pads are SO worn, they are almost stuck up again the rotor. I don't see how I'm supposed to get them out of the in the first place, and even if I do, how am I supposed to get the much thicker new pads in? The only thing I could think of would be removing the caliper, but I'm not up to that task. WTF is going on here????
March-8th-2003, 12:27 PM
#2
Protege Addict
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Southwest Florida
Posts: 435
Maybe I don't understand - are you trying to replace the pads without pulling the caliper off the rotor? You really need to pull the caliper, then you can use a c-clamp to push back the piston. Just keep an eye on the master cylinder resevoir to make sure you don't overflow it - sometimes you have to take some fluid out. You don't have to remove the brake line from the caliper. Just use bungee cord and hang it from the spring while you're working on it. Sorry if I've explained something you already know - I wasn't sure from your post 
.
.
March-8th-2003, 01:45 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: PA
Posts: 2,339
Originally posted by beachnut
Maybe I don't understand - are you trying to replace the pads without pulling the caliper off the rotor? You really need to pull the caliper, then you can use a c-clamp to push back the piston. Just keep an eye on the master cylinder resevoir to make sure you don't overflow it - sometimes you have to take some fluid out. You don't have to remove the brake line from the caliper. Just use bungee cord and hang it from the spring while you're working on it. Sorry if I've explained something you already know - I wasn't sure from your post .
Maybe I don't understand - are you trying to replace the pads without pulling the caliper off the rotor? You really need to pull the caliper, then you can use a c-clamp to push back the piston. Just keep an eye on the master cylinder resevoir to make sure you don't overflow it - sometimes you have to take some fluid out. You don't have to remove the brake line from the caliper. Just use bungee cord and hang it from the spring while you're working on it. Sorry if I've explained something you already know - I wasn't sure from your post
.
1. Remove brake fluid resiviour cap
2. With old pads in place, press against the pad on the piston side of the caliper, displaing the caliper piston inward fully.
3. Remove the clips, and the pad pins
4. Remove pads, anti-squeak shim, outer shim, and the inner shim.
5. Apply coating of brake grease to back of new pads, re-install shims and pads
6. Put pins and clips back in place
7. Check brake fluid level
All I'm able to remove is the inner pad and shim, not the outer.
March-9th-2003, 01:33 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: PA
Posts: 2,339
Originally posted by Gro Harlem
remove the caliper, it isn't hard. ***** what the haynes says, it is MUCH EASIER if you remove that biatch.
Its like 2 14mm bolts.
Then you whack the cali off with a rubber mallet if it isn't coming off, and then the pads will just fall out after you remove the pins. I suggest getting some sandpaper and sanding down the pins a bit before reinstalling them b/c they can be caked up with brakedust and slightly larger in diameter as a result, making it hard to get them to slide in.
Also, sometimes the brakepads need to be filed down or the holes need to be enlarged when you install new ones, especially for cheap *** autozone pads. Even rabestos are sometimes like this.
remove the caliper, it isn't hard. ***** what the haynes says, it is MUCH EASIER if you remove that biatch.
Its like 2 14mm bolts.
Then you whack the cali off with a rubber mallet if it isn't coming off, and then the pads will just fall out after you remove the pins. I suggest getting some sandpaper and sanding down the pins a bit before reinstalling them b/c they can be caked up with brakedust and slightly larger in diameter as a result, making it hard to get them to slide in.
Also, sometimes the brakepads need to be filed down or the holes need to be enlarged when you install new ones, especially for cheap *** autozone pads. Even rabestos are sometimes like this.
However, I think they gave me the wrong pads. They are way thicker than what I have on there currently, and while putting the new pads on the outside of the caliper, and trying to remount the caliper, there is a good 1/2" overhang of where it mounts to the rotor or whatever. I have a picture up on my yahoo site, you can see what I mean, it should be the last picture in the album.
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/funkdaddy...r+Rims&.view=t
March-10th-2003, 04:30 AM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Huntington Beach, CA Uhhh Surfs up Dude
Posts: 2,367
having just done mine, it's fresh in memory.
the front calipers adjust in and out from the top mounting bolt. Lossen the top bolt but remove the bottom bolt and you'll see how it can move. you may need to give it a little tap to help it. There are metal sleeves that are used for self adjustment and the rubber boots are for protection, but they can hide the fact the sleeves are there and thier operation.
The pad thickness is about .5" to .75" thick.
How's the piston action? were you able to easily move it back in?
the front calipers adjust in and out from the top mounting bolt. Lossen the top bolt but remove the bottom bolt and you'll see how it can move. you may need to give it a little tap to help it. There are metal sleeves that are used for self adjustment and the rubber boots are for protection, but they can hide the fact the sleeves are there and thier operation.
The pad thickness is about .5" to .75" thick.
How's the piston action? were you able to easily move it back in?
March-10th-2003, 07:33 AM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: PA
Posts: 2,339
Originally posted by mazdaspeedwest
having just done mine, it's fresh in memory.
the front calipers adjust in and out from the top mounting bolt. Lossen the top bolt but remove the bottom bolt and you'll see how it can move. you may need to give it a little tap to help it. There are metal sleeves that are used for self adjustment and the rubber boots are for protection, but they can hide the fact the sleeves are there and thier operation.
The pad thickness is about .5" to .75" thick.
How's the piston action? were you able to easily move it back in?
having just done mine, it's fresh in memory.
the front calipers adjust in and out from the top mounting bolt. Lossen the top bolt but remove the bottom bolt and you'll see how it can move. you may need to give it a little tap to help it. There are metal sleeves that are used for self adjustment and the rubber boots are for protection, but they can hide the fact the sleeves are there and thier operation.
The pad thickness is about .5" to .75" thick.
How's the piston action? were you able to easily move it back in?
Well, it has to be the pad thickness then... I took this picture yesterday with the caliper off. I put the outter pad in place, it's right up against the rotor. I know it's hard to see from the pic, but the bottom caliper mounting point (where the rubber grommet looking thing is at) won't fit back over the mounting plate to mount back down (right to the left of it). The only way that can change, from what I see, is the width of the pad. The pads that I got from pep boys were easily 1" or more, stupid fools
I'm going to go over there today I think and get some other pads, probably just the OEM replacements because I don't think they have any other kind (unless they can find the right set for me).
March-10th-2003, 02:14 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Huntington Beach, CA Uhhh Surfs up Dude
Posts: 2,367
hehehe, thats the metal sleeve that moves in and out. Give it a tap with a mallet of hammer 
not too much or the rubber boot will pop off, but it will move to allow the caliper back on.
not too much or the rubber boot will pop off, but it will move to allow the caliper back on.
March-10th-2003, 05:52 PM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: PA
Posts: 2,339
Originally posted by Gro Harlem
Yah man that metal bastard that is in your way moves. It is the auto-adjuster thingy that moves the cali closer/farther from the rotor as the pad wears down.
It might be stubborn at first, but just whack the **** out of it with a hammer. After it breaks loose you can usually move it with your finger if you push it firmly.
I too had the same problem. I couldn't figure out how the **** the new pads fit, until i realized that metal thing moves in and out.
Yah man that metal bastard that is in your way moves. It is the auto-adjuster thingy that moves the cali closer/farther from the rotor as the pad wears down.
It might be stubborn at first, but just whack the **** out of it with a hammer. After it breaks loose you can usually move it with your finger if you push it firmly.
I too had the same problem. I couldn't figure out how the **** the new pads fit, until i realized that metal thing moves in and out.
Next week I'm getting some other repairs done, I'll just have the guy break that beeyatch loose for me and put the other pads on. Freaking stupid bastard cars!!!!!!
Thanks for the clarification though guys
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BadBrakes
1st gen/323/GLC Suspension and Brakes
2
March-7th-2003 09:36 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)