Speedvillain

i bought a intake adapter and cone filter and put it on today. i have 94 323 with auto if that makes any diff. anyways all good so far i did the batttery reset thing with the neg terminal. the prob is after driving around a while and slowing down and about to park when car is idling it shutters a little and wants to stall but doesn't then goes back to normal again then tries to stall and shut off again. i can see the lights dim like it's about to shut off. other than that i like the sound and the extra power, but i'm hoping the car is just adjusting to the intake. pls give input this is the first mod i did so i don't want to mess nothin up. thanx for all your help board.

knightrider

my only thoughts are the oil breather line. Did you plug that up if you bought a seperate filter for the crankcase. make sure there are no leaks. and check to make sure that your air flow mass sensor is in the correct place.

protejay

it SOUNDS like your car is doin the same thing my 5spd did after i reset the computer... whenever i came to a stop and pushed the clutch in the rpm SEEMED to fluctuate more than it did before the reset.
normally the car's idle is about 500rpm? - after the reset it would dip to about 200 rpm before going back up OVER 500 rpm AND then settling at 500 rpm - almost would stall but doesn't.
after 350 miles, doesn't seem to be doin it as much now...
just give it some time - i THINK its normal...

GTX140

I had a terrible scare with my old Jetta, which had the same AFM as our cars. Make sure there is no leak between the AFM and throttle body. You could have accidentially pulled the AFM out slightly from the intake hose. ANY leak in air will send the ECU into a tizzy. The AFM is telling the ECU that there isn't as much air going into the engine as there really is. This causes all kinds of fuel problems, i.e: rough engine, like you described.
One time on my Jetta, I forgot to clamp the intake hose to the AFM, and it slipped off. The only way to describe the experience was like a tranny explosion. It drove around like i was missing teeth on the tranny, or the fuel was cutting. The car was very violent (whipping) on take off, but fine at cruise. this was due to the mismatched signals going to the ecu. I know it's not the same as your problem, but just an example of things that could happen. I Hope this helps.

Speedvillain

thanx guys. i tightened up all my little hoses. i think my car was still just gettin used to it. it doesn't really do that any more seems to be runnin smooth guess i just paniced. seeems to be running better now though after these couple days. thanx

M323speed

I had the same problem for like a day and i figured out that my breather wasnt hooked up right after i did it it was a little loose

AiR_SiK

I tried the same drop-in and trust me, a K&N drop-in won't give you any noticeable power gains. Neither will a cone air filter. If I was you I'd put down $200-$300 on a decent muffler and tip and have a good exhaust shop custom bend you up a cat-back system. I spent $225 in all on a Thermal R&D muffler and tip and had a local shop do the piping and picked up 3 tenths in the quarter.

Maz94Protege

i had put the intake filter and adapter on my car, the only problem was it was big and wouldnt fit right next to teh battery and behind the headlight. i had to twist the hose clockwise a little bit and then shove the intake filter under the side. (right infront of battery, there is a gap where the OEM intake box/filter was).
mine squeeks, cause my filter is aluminum and it rubs side of car, but only when i excelerate or start teh car it squeeks. (that could be ur "squeeking" problem)
The only other thing is, check the Air flow meters cable, if its not pushed in and isnt locked with the clip, it could effect ur performance and give u such a low idle.

the stock idle is 750rpm. not 500.

mazdaspeedwest

you may have knocked and lossened a spark plug wire. May want to double check those and the coil wire are tight.

GNO

Yes! This is a good idea for most every mod. Disconnect the negative terminal for a bit to reset. By doing so, the "relearning" period drops from a few days, as Speedvillan experienced, to just a few minutes.

kshearon

There is no air filter detector. The car may remap the fuel program because its getting more air, but you'd have to drive it so it could tell its getting more are.

Since the mass flow sensor senses a higher volume of air and adjusts fuel ratios accordingly there is no need to reset the computer when you change the air filter.

The difference in flow changing between a dirty and clean OEM filter vs. changing fom a clean OEM to a High Flow filter is much the same.

The computer just reads the airflow and dispenses the fuel. Just as when you go to a higher altitude, you don't have to stop and disconnect the battery it adjusts based on volume of air.

protegeDX

what louder sound are you all actually talking about when you say it sounds louder after putting in the cone filter? cuz mine only makes a sound that goes like SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS and doesnt make like a deep VROOOM sound if u know what i mean. i was a bit dissapointed

mazdaspeedwest

i like the SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS, it's unique. When ppl ask what the noise is, i just tell them, "the engine is from the Dark Side, beware..." ya, i know, he's only inhaling, but it still sounds the same

protegeDX

i like the SSSSS to and maybe mine isnt as loud cuz i dont have a muffler. im jus a bit mad cuz my friend with a 2000 lx protege sounds like a monster with an intake. what i actually did was give him my K&N cone filter and it sounded better (more louder and consistent) than his maxtrix one. and after all this time i didnt think the filter mattered. so i felt pretty gay after this experiment =P