bob teatow

this is a pet peeve, which I think I've already posted -
why just the single idiot light? Why isn't there an indication that just says
"it seems your gas cap is loose" or at least a little code I could look up on a crib sheet?
Just like the dealer does?

BTW - is there a cheap cable and software package I can use with a PC to get the same info? Mazda and every other freaking car company ought to sell the cable for $10 and let you download the latest software. I wouldn't even mind them holding back some of the capabilities - just give me an understandable readout and a way to reset the idiot lights.

DanielleMunich

Fullmetalnip- Nearly every one with the Mazda 3 of either model and the Mazda 6's have had break squeeling. My friend with the Mazda 6 has had her brakes re-placed inside and out like 5 times since the squeeling started and it hasn't fixed a thing. My dealer told me (i have a 3 5 door) that it was because there is so much aluminum/metal whatever in the breaks and also that it was because of the cold garage I park it in.
But the corporate mazda people told me that was BS.

Any way I don't think it would matter if they replaced your brakes. Nothing has been recalled yet on them, so all you are doing is replacing your old squeeking brakes with new squeeking brakes.

If you read threads, you'll see that most people with these cars have also had problems with the CEL and gas caps. I'm guessing that will be recalled soon also.
Mazda 6 which came out in '03 has had nearly 10 recalls so far.
Hope this helps.

fullmetalnip

thanks for your guys input. it seems that the squeeking brakes problem cant be helped. i dont have my check engine light on. but i will tighten my gas cap more than usual. maybe i will reset my cel anyways. i will update you in about a week on the improvement of my gas.

bob teatow

As I wrote above,

"Depending on many factors, even a perfectly functioning brake system can make some noise. It's just the nature of rubbing two parts together, like chalk on a blackboard. "

I'm talking a squeal as you start to appy the brakes. Other noises could be a sign of trouble, or just some rust build-up.

I don't like rust on rotors, but apparantly this too is normal. Seems any reasonably priced rotor with good braking qualities will be made of iron that rusts on humid/wet days.

I did find that there are some manufacturers that galvanize the entire rotor (or some similar coating process). That protects every exposed surface - except for where the pads rub -- where they run, the coating wears off of course... But that's the part that gets nice and shiny anyway after you're running for a little bit...

swamp

Dealer says gas cap was not tightened at some point. I'm absolutely sure I have tightened the thing until it clicked every time I got gas, but I'll let it go. I'll just reset the computer from now on when it happens or have one of the techs show me exactly how to tighten the fuel cap at shop. Seems silly.

85 dollar diag fee?? I've never been charged a diag fee during warrantee period!! I guess you are talking about service fees to the manufacturer??

Anyway, I don't understand why it would be "funny" when someone keeps bringing their car in. If you are a trained technician, you are trained to know things about how cars operate. I don't laugh at people who don't know how to do my job.

rabbitph

mine also has this "break squeals", but i only hear it in the morning..when i first move the car out of the parking lot..and after a few short drives..its gone..

i can see the "rust accumulation" on the "break rotor" due to damp weather lately..bob's right..
i did not have this noise when i got my car last march, wherein the weather's dry..

for me its just fine..as long as the "squeal" dont happen every time i step on the breaks
after atleast a short drive.. there is something wrong when this happens..

"break dust" annoys me more..
guess i'll just have to wait for the "break pad" scheduled replacement..and insted of using the factory type..i'll find a better pad..hoping it will correct the break dust build-up.. and the "squeal"..

mikeg

OK...I now have my 3rd CEL and will be bringing my Mazda3 Hatchback into the dealer for the 4th time in about 2 months...the non-CEL visit was for horrible gas mileage, which still exists. I am sick and tired of this and, unfortunately, am not happy with my Mazda3. Do I have any options available to me? I know I can apply for arbitration under the Lemon Law, but is there anything else I can do? Contact Mazda North America? Speak to the General Manager of the dealership? Will any of this get me anywhere...or get me a new car or my money back?

mikeg

By the way, the last time I had it in, they replaced the gas cap and the leak detection pump. I felt they were only doing it in hopes that it would solve the CEL problem...and I seem to be right.

bob teatow

MikeG - go to another authorized Mazda repair shop! You may be dealing with an incompetent and/or lazy mechanic. It happens. Did you do a carefully measured mileage check at highway speeds?

Swamp and Fullmetal:

Did you get replacement gas caps? It's just possible you have a bad gasket or poorly formed cap that will not properly seal, no matter how much you tighten it.

bob teatow

Brake dust and brake squeal:

Again this is the nature of the beast. Brake pads wear. They get thinner. That lost material is brake dust!

Squealing: Some occasional squealing is not unusual. Like chalk on a blackboard. Mechanic can try cleaning with some spray stuff they use - that might help, for a while...

DanielleMunich

If you look at the overall picture Mike and leave out all the driving back and forth to the dealer, you've really only had a small problem with your car. I haven't had the CEL light come on in my car but I know it's a big problem with all Mazda 3's and 6's. Maybe you're just unlucky like I am and picked the wrong one off the lot. It depends on what dealer you bring it too also, what kind of service you will get.
Since I had my fuel pump replaced I haven't had any problems with my car, just the dealer. Had been trying for 1-2 months to get my new carpet put in, finally they had a loaner for me yesterday and I think my car will be fine for a while. Cross my fingers that they put every thing back in place correctly.

I say just keep getting the CEL sorted out as many times as you need to until it comes up as a recall and the problem can be fixed for good. Because dealing with the lemon law is going to be a whole lot more hassle in the end than this, plus you'll still have to pay on your car. You have a choice of either exchanging your car for the exact same one or if you give it up you'll have to pay whatever's left of what you owe on it, since it dropped five-ten grand when you drove it off the lot. I know because I at one point wanted to use the lemon law.

Monzsta

Monzsta,
appreciate hearing it from your point of view. Would you please comment on:

1) Some of us want to know what that engine light might mean BEFORE we take the car in. For example, to get some idea of what and how serious the problem might be.

Without a scanner that supports CAN bus diagnostics, there's no telling. If it's flashing, it's serious, otherwise it's ok to drive to the dealer..

a) Why the heck can't the auto makers give us a standard USB or serial port on the car - so we can jack in and give us some "free" downloadable software or a CD that comes with the car so we can get some better diagnostics OURSELVES?

The software is closely guarded with encryption to prevent tampering. Most scanners will read OBDII codes, and code descriptions are gotten from a book with the scanner.

b) Many cars have LCD or LED displays capable of display a few characters or numbers - why the heck just the idiot light? Why not an error code on a built-in display - or better yet - a timesquare style scrolling error message in plain English (or language of your choice)?

Manufacturer's discretion. If you roll the key 3 times on a late model Dodge product, (on-off-on-off-on) The odometer display will begin displaying OBDII P codes.

2) Which if any of the many possible EVAP problems can lead to rough idling, hard starting or other noticeable driving problems?

Any of them can, in theory. Most likely would be a stuck purge solenoid.

ping3

most of us have the same problem
just wanna share what ive encountered
brake squeeeeling within two weeks, dealers replaced pads and rotors ,so far its been quiet
aircon need to add some of that coolin gas
1st CEL service guy said they replaced a device on the gas tank, dont know the specific name , its like a breather which let some air in into the gas tank so tank wont collapsed
2nd CEL need to replace gas cover, service said the original production was defective, mazda made new ones, there should be recall on this
both front window motors replaced, coz windows make those snapping sound when rolled up or down
thats a lot for a new car
bad trip men always goin back to the dealer

mikeg

Update...they replaced the Purge Valve today...said it should be ok now...but that's what they've said every time. Got to talk to the mechanic for a while, seemed to know a lot...more than the service manager i was dealing with. The mechanic said Mazda has been having a lot of issues with the 3's emmissions system. Also said my poor gas mileage should be improved with the new Purge Valve...We shall see

Monzsta

Good deal, Mike. Ping, I have to take my wife's 3 5 door in for the window noise. They've had to purge air from the steering (steeringwheel creaks when car is warmed up) and replaced the upper strut bearing in the front for a rattle. I'm gonna ask for the pcm update for throttle lag and see if I can get ahold of some tsb's.