jcanosa

I have a 2008 mazda3 hatch, and there is something wrong with my doors and locks. I cannot lock my car with my remote. I can unlock all doors with my remote EXCEPT for the front passenger side. The open door sign in my dash does not go away, and while my car is running I cannot lock any of my doors with the button in the door panel.

Can someone please help me fix this problem? I dont want to go to mazda and get charged big money if i can fix it myself?

djs2571

sounds like it's inside the door switch - it's a single assembly with the locking mechanism, solenoid for locking and the door closed switch. There's 3 bolts to take it out - once the interior panel, window, and inside door skin are removed.
Note that the connector for this assembly has a red latch slide on it, the latch pulls out, then you can press the release for the connector - fun part is it's on the bottom of the assembly, so hard to see.
I haven't pulled one apart, but since you're asking for help I assume you aren't the type to pull stuff apart for fun. Give a shout if you want to pull it apart, I can give you a sort of step by step for it.

jcanosa

Yes, I'm interested in opening it because I really have nothing else to lose cause I was planning on taking it to Mazda, so If you can give me the step by step id appreciate it, thanks!

djs2571

ok, so
1: tools - small flat head screwdriver or small knife / pry tool, #2 philips, #3 philips, 10mm socket
2: You probably want to break the screws loose on the door latch first, they are right next to the door latch on the rear edge of the door. This would use a #3 driver - and lots of torque.
3: Remove the inside door trim:
3A: remove the front door tweeter – inside opposite the mirror. This just pops loose from the window edge – pull by hand / finger. Then unplug the tweeter – small flathead / poker tool needed here. Also unplug the power mirror connector while you’re here.
3B: there's a screw under the door handle with a little plastic cap on it, pop the cap off and it will remain attached to the little plastic cup, so pop it off lightly - #2 philips
3C: remove the main door handle screw, it’s also under a little plastic cap #2 or #3 philips
3D: the door panel has many push pin snaps, starting at the front lower edge I think is easiest. There are ~10-12 around the edge of the door, all sides but the top near the window. These may break on the way out, CRS fastener is what I recall for finding some – I’ll have to get the part number if you need some. The holes for these can be ‘smoothed out’ on the inside edge to keep from holding the fastener so tightly by deburring the inside edge.
3E: Before removing the panel, open the window until about ¼ of the glass disappears below the trim – this is about the right distance to get to the bolts holding the window in.
3F: The panel pulls out pivoting on the top window edge, then lift up and it’s in your hands. The window switch and door lock (drivers side) need to be unplugged, just a normal push to release latch, though they aren’t the easiest to operate.
3F: the door panel should be off, there are two 10mm nuts holding the window track on, - on the lower half of the door there are two rectangular plastic plugs (only one on the rear door). Pull these off knife / small flat head) and you should see the window track and a plastic carrier for the window. Move the window up/down to get easy access to the two bolts holding the window. If the window isn’t in the perfect position, plug back in the window switch and move as needed. Then unplug the switch and pull the door panel off
4: Window removal. The two bolts can be removed and the window will just sit on the plastic guide. Lift the window and tip it so the front of the window is lower – the lift out. BE CAREFUL, don’t force anything, it just slides out easily.
5: door latch handle removal – there’s a little pin that runs through the handle and lock, on its side there’s a cutout and a small finger. This is the retaining latch, use a small screwdriver to pull it out (out from the center) and the pin should slide up with a little click. Don’t pull it all the way out, just up a half inch to get the door handles out. Rotate and unclip the cable ends (note the solid wire is on the lock, the stranded wire is on the handle).
6A: Latch disconnect: there’s a clear plastic ‘window’ in the door to be removed, this allows access to the inside of the door if you want to disconnect the electrical connector on the latch. There’s a red latch lock on the bottom of this, which can be accessed from the top, or pushed after removing a hole plug from the rear side of the door below the latch. This is not an easy connector to unplug – so unscrewing the latch and pulling it all out at once may be easier.
6B: disconnect the metal pushrod from the exterior door handle.
7: Interior panel removal – there are about 15 bolts around the door and a single plastic push pin at the top. Remove all these but don’t touch the nuts that are on the window track. Once out, the panel is sort of stuck in place with the adhesion from foam weatherstripping, start at one corner and peel the panel off.
The wiring leading to the speaker and power mirror should be detached from the door. A small screwdriver / knife can disengage the teeth on the zip ties.
The panel pulls out only an inch, then needs to be dropped down to get the window regulator out.
8:
At this point the door should be all apart, with the door lock exposed to work on or replace. First time this will probably be about 30-45 mins. Though with experience that time can drop to 20 mins or less.

djs2571

ok, so
1: tools - small flat head screwdriver or small knife / pry tool, #2 philips, #3 philips, 10mm socket
2: You probably want to break the screws loose on the door latch first, they are right next to the door latch on the rear edge of the door. This would use a #3 driver - and lots of torque.
3: Remove the inside door trim:
3A: remove the front door tweeter – inside opposite the mirror. This just pops loose from the window edge – pull by hand / finger. Then unplug the tweeter – small flathead / poker tool needed here. Also unplug the power mirror connector while you’re here.
3B: there's a screw under the door handle with a little plastic cap on it, pop the cap off and it will remain attached to the little plastic cup, so pop it off lightly - #2 philips
3C: remove the main door handle screw, it’s also under a little plastic cap #2 or #3 philips
3D: the door panel has many push pin snaps, starting at the front lower edge I think is easiest. There are ~10-12 around the edge of the door, all sides but the top near the window. These may break on the way out, CRS fastener is what I recall for finding some – I’ll have to get the part number if you need some. The holes for these can be ‘smoothed out’ on the inside edge to keep from holding the fastener so tightly by deburring the inside edge.
3E: Before removing the panel, open the window until about ¼ of the glass disappears below the trim – this is about the right distance to get to the bolts holding the window in.
3F: The panel pulls out pivoting on the top window edge, then lift up and it’s in your hands. The window switch and door lock (drivers side) need to be unplugged, just a normal push to release latch, though they aren’t the easiest to operate.
3F: the door panel should be off, there are two 10mm nuts holding the window track on, - on the lower half of the door there are two rectangular plastic plugs (only one on the rear door). Pull these off knife / small flat head) and you should see the window track and a plastic carrier for the window. Move the window up/down to get easy access to the two bolts holding the window. If the window isn’t in the perfect position, plug back in the window switch and move as needed. Then unplug the switch and pull the door panel off
4: Window removal. The two bolts can be removed and the window will just sit on the plastic guide. Lift the window and tip it so the front of the window is lower – the lift out. BE CAREFUL, don’t force anything, it just slides out easily.
5: door latch handle removal – there’s a little pin that runs through the handle and lock, on its side there’s a cutout and a small finger. This is the retaining latch, use a small screwdriver to pull it out (out from the center) and the pin should slide up with a little click. Don’t pull it all the way out, just up a half inch to get the door handles out. Rotate and unclip the cable ends (note the solid wire is on the lock, the stranded wire is on the handle).
6A: Latch disconnect: there’s a clear plastic ‘window’ in the door to be removed, this allows access to the inside of the door if you want to disconnect the electrical connector on the latch. There’s a red latch lock on the bottom of this, which can be accessed from the top, or pushed after removing a hole plug from the rear side of the door below the latch. This is not an easy connector to unplug – so unscrewing the latch and pulling it all out at once may be easier.
6B: disconnect the metal pushrod from the exterior door handle.
7: Interior panel removal – there are about 15 bolts around the door (10mm) and a single plastic push pin at the top. Remove all these but don’t touch the nuts that are on the window track. Once out, the panel is sort of stuck in place with the adhesion from foam weatherstripping, start at one corner and peel the panel off.
The wiring leading to the speaker and power mirror should be detached from the door. A small screwdriver / knife can disengage the teeth on the zip ties.
The panel pulls out only an inch, then needs to be dropped down to get the window regulator out.
8:
At this point the door should be all apart, with the door lock exposed to work on or replace. First time this will probably be about 30-45 mins. Though with experience that time can drop to 20 mins or less.

djs2571

ah, not CRS - crest net sales - CRS is what's on their box. though looking at their website it looks like they don't sell fasteners anymore