Changing OEM Fog lights on '01/'02 sedan
August-13th-2002, 07:45 PM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 168
Changing OEM Fog lights on '01/'02 sedan
I haven't found a free photo host site that will let me link in images from, so for now, check out the album
www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291506829&idx=1 in conjunction with this post =). If you know of one, please let me know.
I know at least sir_jumper was interested.. so it'll help one person =P
Changing fog lights in 2001/2002 Protege Sedan
Tools needed (i'm not so familiar w/tool names so i'm giving this my best shot):
* Socket Wrench
* Phillips Screwdriver
* Something to lie down on
* new light bulbs
* place to put old bulbs (I used the container for the new bulbs)
There is no need to jack up your car unless you are using a Creeper, then you'll want to put your car up on rams. I just used a thin sheet of cardboard to lie down on.
Fig. 1 - This is a picture of the driver side fog lamp housing from underneath.
The compass shows where the "F"ront, "R"ear, "D"river side, and where the "P"assenger side is.
First note is #1 Wire (well.. heat shrink). This wire leads to the plug. The workshop manual says to unplug the wire. Well, unfortunately, as you can see in Fig. 1b, the wire is tied, so unplugging won't help anything. Besides, just trying to unplug the wire was a bitch. So what I did instead, was pull the wire until I had enuf slack. Be careful pulling, as you don't want to bend the wire too much.
Second note is #2 Bolt. This is the bolt you need to unscrew to get the lamp out. That other bolt to the right is the aiming bolt.
Fig. 2 - This is a picture of the left side of the fog lamp housing from underneath.
Notice #3 Lamp wedge thingy. This is one of the things holding the lamp in the housing. There is one on the other side as well (See Fig. 3). See Fig. 4 to see how the two wedge things look like. They are bendable, so you can get the damned thing out. What I did was push on this one first (towards the right, so pressing in) while pushing the lamp forward. You'll need to put a little strength when pressing the wedge thing.
Fig. 3 - This is a picture of the right side of the fog lamp housing from underneath.
This shows where the second lamp wedge thingy is. Press on this one now and push. You'll get the lamp out.
Fig. 4 - This shows the lamp pulled out and looking from the top. This also shows the lamp wedge thingies I was talking about in Figures 2 and 3.
Fig. 4b - This is the same view as Fig. 4
There are two screws here. Unscrew them with a phillips screwdriver and remove the cover (like in Fig. 6).
Fig. 5 - This is a view of the lamp's bottom.
Fig. 6 - This is after unscrewing those two screws in Fig. 4b
Fig. 7 - This shows the bulb and how it is connected.
Note #6. This is where the bulb is plugged in to. I unplugged this part first
Now #7 is the lever that locks the bulb into place. Untuck it from where it is underneath the notch, where the line is pointing. It opens up towards the right in this picture. The bulb will become loose. Be careful pulling it out. In this view, I tilted the back the of the bulb (the part sticking out at you in this picture) downwards and slided it up slightly.
Now do all the above in the reverse order. I didn't bother adjusting the aim. I've only done the driver side so I can compare with the OEM one. The aim seems to be the same.
The following are some pictures to show the differences. My new bulb is slightly whiter only. Or more precisely, less yellow. This matches my headlights, so I am happy. Even though the coating on my bulb is blue, it's not deep enough to make the lights look blue. But enough to subtract enough red and green that it's not so yellow.
The pictures don't represent the real look. The ones with slow shutter and no flash takes the picture too slowly. It makes the headlights appear brighter and whiter. The ones that are fast shutter take it too quick and it looks too dim/yellow. I wish I could manually adjust the shutter speed on my camera. oh well.
Feel free to pm me if you have questions. But there is no notification, so I may not notice right away. Bear with me if it takes a while =)
www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291506829&idx=1 in conjunction with this post =). If you know of one, please let me know.
I know at least sir_jumper was interested.. so it'll help one person =P
Changing fog lights in 2001/2002 Protege Sedan
Tools needed (i'm not so familiar w/tool names so i'm giving this my best shot):
* Socket Wrench
* Phillips Screwdriver
* Something to lie down on
* new light bulbs
* place to put old bulbs (I used the container for the new bulbs)
There is no need to jack up your car unless you are using a Creeper, then you'll want to put your car up on rams. I just used a thin sheet of cardboard to lie down on.
Fig. 1 - This is a picture of the driver side fog lamp housing from underneath.
The compass shows where the "F"ront, "R"ear, "D"river side, and where the "P"assenger side is.
First note is #1 Wire (well.. heat shrink). This wire leads to the plug. The workshop manual says to unplug the wire. Well, unfortunately, as you can see in Fig. 1b, the wire is tied, so unplugging won't help anything. Besides, just trying to unplug the wire was a bitch. So what I did instead, was pull the wire until I had enuf slack. Be careful pulling, as you don't want to bend the wire too much.
Second note is #2 Bolt. This is the bolt you need to unscrew to get the lamp out. That other bolt to the right is the aiming bolt.
Fig. 2 - This is a picture of the left side of the fog lamp housing from underneath.
Notice #3 Lamp wedge thingy. This is one of the things holding the lamp in the housing. There is one on the other side as well (See Fig. 3). See Fig. 4 to see how the two wedge things look like. They are bendable, so you can get the damned thing out. What I did was push on this one first (towards the right, so pressing in) while pushing the lamp forward. You'll need to put a little strength when pressing the wedge thing.
Fig. 3 - This is a picture of the right side of the fog lamp housing from underneath.
This shows where the second lamp wedge thingy is. Press on this one now and push. You'll get the lamp out.
Fig. 4 - This shows the lamp pulled out and looking from the top. This also shows the lamp wedge thingies I was talking about in Figures 2 and 3.
Fig. 4b - This is the same view as Fig. 4
There are two screws here. Unscrew them with a phillips screwdriver and remove the cover (like in Fig. 6).
Fig. 5 - This is a view of the lamp's bottom.
Fig. 6 - This is after unscrewing those two screws in Fig. 4b
Fig. 7 - This shows the bulb and how it is connected.
Note #6. This is where the bulb is plugged in to. I unplugged this part first
Now #7 is the lever that locks the bulb into place. Untuck it from where it is underneath the notch, where the line is pointing. It opens up towards the right in this picture. The bulb will become loose. Be careful pulling it out. In this view, I tilted the back the of the bulb (the part sticking out at you in this picture) downwards and slided it up slightly.
Now do all the above in the reverse order. I didn't bother adjusting the aim. I've only done the driver side so I can compare with the OEM one. The aim seems to be the same.
The following are some pictures to show the differences. My new bulb is slightly whiter only. Or more precisely, less yellow. This matches my headlights, so I am happy. Even though the coating on my bulb is blue, it's not deep enough to make the lights look blue. But enough to subtract enough red and green that it's not so yellow.
The pictures don't represent the real look. The ones with slow shutter and no flash takes the picture too slowly. It makes the headlights appear brighter and whiter. The ones that are fast shutter take it too quick and it looks too dim/yellow. I wish I could manually adjust the shutter speed on my camera. oh well.
Feel free to pm me if you have questions. But there is no notification, so I may not notice right away. Bear with me if it takes a while =)
August-14th-2002, 11:01 AM
#3
Protege Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 168
55 watts according to the box cover.
I did a feel test after 15 minutes of driving with them on and both lamps (stock and new) were both just as frickin hot.. =P.
Yow... it suprised me heheh.
Oh.. I will upload this tonight to that album, but I took another picture of the lights shining on the wall of the lit parking garage at work. It represents real life (as seen through my eyes) much closer.
I did a feel test after 15 minutes of driving with them on and both lamps (stock and new) were both just as frickin hot.. =P.
Yow... it suprised me heheh.
Oh.. I will upload this tonight to that album, but I took another picture of the lights shining on the wall of the lit parking garage at work. It represents real life (as seen through my eyes) much closer.
Last edited by Fulminatus; August-14th-2002 at 11:03 AM.
August-15th-2002, 07:22 AM
#4
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 120
The lense on my driver side light is smashed, so presumably I need a new housing and everything. The instruction you gave were good, and I guess the only difference would be I'd need to detach that wire on the back of the old house.
Any ideas how that can be done without destroying anything?
Any ideas how that can be done without destroying anything?
February-21st-2003, 07:06 PM
#6
Protege Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 168
Yes the ES also uses an H3 bulb.
Pics are back up on imagestation. Sorry.. I am still having trouble uploading to my cardomain one..
pm me if you know why....
hmm.. I wonder if it has anything to do with there being spaces in the filename.
Pics are back up on imagestation. Sorry.. I am still having trouble uploading to my cardomain one..
pm me if you know why....
hmm.. I wonder if it has anything to do with there being spaces in the filename.
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