Aniki010

I have the 2k2p5 with a pretty decent system(jlaudio500/1,12"w6v2,the cube,clarionvrx925vd) everything is cool except the rattle that comes from the stock wing. Does anyone know how to take it off so that i can dynamat it or do something to kill the rattles in that wing area??

MisterT

Have you tried Dynomating the door of the trunk first? Not sure, but it may cure the problem minus the hassel of removing it. Just a thought.

Mister T

JellyBean98

It's not hard at all, but you may want a friend to help so you do not accidentally drop it while you are trying to unclip your third brake light to remove the spoiler completely from the car. If you open the hatch you will see 4 grommets up towards the top of the hatch. Remove these and there are 4 10mm bolts under there. That's all that you need to remove then you will need to pop it straight up to undo the pop tabs. After that undo the third brake light clip and set it off to the side. I went to Lowe's and bought some weather stripping memory foam and laid it around the outline of dirt left from the spoiler and then added the spoiler back on over it and it took care of all my problems. I take no responsibility if this info is wrong or incomplete as it has been awhile since I have done this, so you may want to check with someone before doing it or see if anyone here replies with different instructions.

P5s_LetsRoll

Just did this.. Wish I would have taken pictures..

Okay do as instructed above..

1.)remove grommets with screwdriver ~ use a little force
2.)Remove two center most with 10mm deep socket
3.)Remove two screws with fat head phillips screw driver
4.)push up & out on spoiler to remove it from retaining clip holes
5.)now have a friend hold the spoiler while you disassemble the spoiler. You can't remove it at this time because the 3rd brake light wires are still attached to hatch door.
6.)remove all screw from black plates that the LED brake light bar is attached too. This allows you to take off actual spoiler
7.)now dis-assemble the brake light mounting hardware
8.)place a ripped piece of dynamat, or b-quiet over each screw plateu (spelling???)
9.)then take the black pieces (brake light mounting pieces) and place in spoiler, tap them. You'll notice sound coming from the front (actually the back of the spoiler when on car)
10.)you need to cut approx. 1/8"in. strips about 10" long and place above the little tab like things molded to the spoiler, sticking the sticky side on the spoiler itself.. press them in, and then place black pieces back in, to make sure clearance is acceptable.. You will notice a slight raise in clearance, this is fine because once you screw everything down. It looks completely innocent..
11.)CLEAN THE AREA FIRST.... Now take either single sided or double sided trim (foam) tape and outlike the upper part of spoler that sits on body, you'll see some felt like looking stuff on the spoiler already.. Stick the tape right over the top of it..
12.)now, start putting it back together.. REMEMBER, put a piece of dynamat type material between every piece of plastic that touches anything, clearance will come out fine. Just put everything back together in a reverse order.

Now you will enjoy a booming rattle free car, I assume you have dynamated other areas..

Dave Cameron

I have used both Dynamat and B-Quiet, and they are pretty much the same materials. The lighter weight materals that both offer are the best product for the trunk lid or a hatch where they will out and out be defyiing gravity.
Prep is the big thing with the stuff. Use rubbing alchol or acetone to clean the surfaces, I usually do an area twice. If it is a surface that won't be seen ever again, I have been know to rough the surface with light grit sandpaper to get below any possible clear coat finishes.
With trunk lids I have had the best sucess when I have removed the lid, and placed it on the gound to apply. I would assume the same for a hatch. If you can find it, 3M makes a pre applicatoin adhasive enhancer that can be applied, the stuff is included in most dash trim kits, but you can get a whole can of it. Try to do the install on a non humid day, temp over 75 but under 90.
Preheat the metal surface, and warm up the deadening materal both. A blow dryer may do, but I use a heatgun like one used for shrink fit tubing. How hot? Hot enough that you would burn your skin in naked to the heat for too long! I wear gloves. Apply small sections at a time, I cut up squares and apply it like a quilt. Then roll the living hell out of them with a solid wooden roller. Get all air out of the squares, knife them if you have to get the air out. Air is your enemy! It robs adhesion and surface area. It can also trap humidity, which is also you enemy in the installation of deadening.
I let it set for overnight, and lightly warm it and roll again.
For all that effort, how have my jobs held up? On floor and side walls close to 100%. Trunk lids are the hardest though, I have had about a 70% sucess rate on them. I have had one lid fall apart three times.
The heavy asphalt based deadening is not the stuff to use on the lid. Try the foil backed materal instead. The more layers, the more wieght, the more risk it will will fall off thanks to gravity.
Deadening helps a little with the sound floor, but only adds maybe 3db to interior sound. It can really add weight to the car, the SQ car I used to compete with had almost 300lbs of the stuff in it, over seven layers in areas when done.
Usually the whole car in pratice doen't really need the stuff. Right around the speakers, in trunk a bit if you have a sub, and anywhere you hear squeaks or noise when driving.
Really, the B-Quiet materals are fine, and match up to Dynamat just fine. Trunk lids are just a tough place to install.

An old post that seemed timely to rehash-