What do yo uguys think of this sub?
#1
What do yo uguys think of this sub?
My friend's bro is willing to sell me his box with 2 10 inch subs for $50, but the problem is, they are really old. They are JL "10w3"s i think, which are like 5 or 6 years old. He wants $50. I don't really want a ridiculous bumping system, i just want something decent, and the price seems right. Another friend said these subs are 250 watts, but he could be wrong.
What should I look for in terms of amps and things? I don't know too much, but do you guys have any recommendations? Like i said i dont want overkill, just a decent setup. Thanks!
Tre
What should I look for in terms of amps and things? I don't know too much, but do you guys have any recommendations? Like i said i dont want overkill, just a decent setup. Thanks!
Tre
#2
JL makes some awesome subs but being 5-6 years old, that is pretty old for a subwoofer. At the same time, $50 is not bad at all for a pair of subs and a box. A good amp depends on your budget. I have a JBL BP600.1 mono amp and it pushes my 2 12s just fine! I know sounddomain is clearing them out, but you may get a better deal on ebay.
www.sounddomain.com
At the same time, you can go for the BP300.1 which would give each sub 150 watts RMS and it's under $200 brand new.
www.sounddomain.com
At the same time, you can go for the BP300.1 which would give each sub 150 watts RMS and it's under $200 brand new.
Last edited by MisterT; March-18th-2004 at 04:39 PM.
#3
What does RMS mean? I don't really mind if the subs are a bit tired (if subs even get tired) or if they dont boom my *** off, i just want something basic and nice. My friend got a bazooka that was like 100w or so (powered) and it fricking bumps ridiculous in our p5s, so i imagine 2 10's would be even crazier.
Couple questions:
1) what does RMS mean ?
2) what determines how "clean" the bass wil sound?
3) I'm probably looking to spend like 100 or less on the amp....so I 'll probably stick with ebay or soemthing. So i should look for an amp that can power 2 10's with 150 RMS and it should sound good?
Thanks again!
Tre
Couple questions:
1) what does RMS mean ?
2) what determines how "clean" the bass wil sound?
3) I'm probably looking to spend like 100 or less on the amp....so I 'll probably stick with ebay or soemthing. So i should look for an amp that can power 2 10's with 150 RMS and it should sound good?
Thanks again!
Tre
#4
Couple questions:
1) what does RMS mean ?
2) what determines how "clean" the bass wil sound?
3) I'm probably looking to spend like 100 or less on the amp....so I 'll probably stick with ebay or soemthing. So i should look for an amp that can power 2 10's with 150 RMS and it should sound good?
1) RMS is the constant power, while peak is well peak, which means it wont even reach that high of wattage fer very long. RMS is much more important
2) Amplifier, wires, box, subs, wut car its in, theres alot, but thats basically the main factors. JLs hit pretty clean, my opinion best quality
3) look for legacy amps, pretty cheap and reliable, nothings ever gone wrong wit the amp i have.
1) what does RMS mean ?
2) what determines how "clean" the bass wil sound?
3) I'm probably looking to spend like 100 or less on the amp....so I 'll probably stick with ebay or soemthing. So i should look for an amp that can power 2 10's with 150 RMS and it should sound good?
1) RMS is the constant power, while peak is well peak, which means it wont even reach that high of wattage fer very long. RMS is much more important
2) Amplifier, wires, box, subs, wut car its in, theres alot, but thats basically the main factors. JLs hit pretty clean, my opinion best quality
3) look for legacy amps, pretty cheap and reliable, nothings ever gone wrong wit the amp i have.
#5
So if my subs are 250 watts, should i look for an amp that can provide 250 watt RMS? I think i read somewhere else that if i find one that can provide like 100 or 150 it should be more than enough, but im not sure. How do i know if it can power 2 amps satisfactorily?
Thanks again!
Tre
Thanks again!
Tre
#7
RMS and Peak seem to be too lightly interchanged in the car audio industry. there is a pretty good contrast between the two.. and i'm too lazy right now to tell ya, but if you want some decent amps for under/around 100, i'd suggest:
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?...ore=&catid=306
or
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?...ore=&catid=306
or
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?...ore=&catid=306
or most likely the best candidate.. a soundstream amp
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?...ore=&catid=306
not sure about the wiring on the w3's, just assuming 4 ohm SVC, but reguardless, all these amps should push what you're looking for and be reliable for the most part.
peace
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?...ore=&catid=306
or
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?...ore=&catid=306
or
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?...ore=&catid=306
or most likely the best candidate.. a soundstream amp
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?...ore=&catid=306
not sure about the wiring on the w3's, just assuming 4 ohm SVC, but reguardless, all these amps should push what you're looking for and be reliable for the most part.
peace
#9
How much do you want for it, skr33t_rac3r?
demoninvictus, does that soundstream amp look better than the JL 300.1 amp for about the same price?
How much do you guys think it should cost if i took the subs and the amp to a best buy or circuit city to install?
Thanks again dudes!
Tre
demoninvictus, does that soundstream amp look better than the JL 300.1 amp for about the same price?
How much do you guys think it should cost if i took the subs and the amp to a best buy or circuit city to install?
Thanks again dudes!
Tre
#12
When buying an amp you want to look at S/N ratio (signal to noise ratio) of at least 100 or better is ideal, Class amp you buy (Class A is the best sounding amp, Class A/B secondly, and finally Class D which is most ideal for a sub amp because it is the most efficient, meaning it won't draw so much current from your battery). Also look at RMS over MAX power, as RMS or continuous power is power it will put out continuously at low distortion, THD or total harmonic distortion you won't at least <.10%
Another thing especially for a sub amp is the dampening factor which is the amp's way of controlling the woofer. The higher the better! I think JL's is around 500 which is awesome! In all, it depends on your budget and I can suggest amps that are great amps in your price range.
Another thing especially for a sub amp is the dampening factor which is the amp's way of controlling the woofer. The higher the better! I think JL's is around 500 which is awesome! In all, it depends on your budget and I can suggest amps that are great amps in your price range.
#13
IN A NUTSHELL, HERE ARE SOME SPECS TO CONSIDER:
S/N ratio >90 or better
Damping Factor ~ 200 or better
THD<.10% or lower is best (anything below .10% is not audible to the human ear)
RMS power
Class D amp if possible for efficiency, but Class A/B isn't bad, just not as efficient.
If you don't have a crossover, then a built in low pass crossover (most amps nowadays come with a highpass/lowpass crossover)
S/N ratio >90 or better
Damping Factor ~ 200 or better
THD<.10% or lower is best (anything below .10% is not audible to the human ear)
RMS power
Class D amp if possible for efficiency, but Class A/B isn't bad, just not as efficient.
If you don't have a crossover, then a built in low pass crossover (most amps nowadays come with a highpass/lowpass crossover)