remote keyless entry
November-9th-2002, 11:51 AM
#16
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Huntington Beach, CA Uhhh Surfs up Dude
Posts: 2,367
Originally posted by Pampusik
here is what I`m reading from remote fob:
Car-Pro XT58
FCC ID: H50603
What I remember from that fast look there are not such a long wires to move that unit, but maybe the box I saw is not the remote unit, I will have to have better and longer look to figure out more.
Where the hell guys are you taking such usefull knowkedges?
Pampusik
here is what I`m reading from remote fob:
Car-Pro XT58
FCC ID: H50603
What I remember from that fast look there are not such a long wires to move that unit, but maybe the box I saw is not the remote unit, I will have to have better and longer look to figure out more.
Where the hell guys are you taking such usefull knowkedges?
Pampusik
12 years of stereos and alarms is my story.
November-9th-2002, 11:52 AM
#17
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Huntington Beach, CA Uhhh Surfs up Dude
Posts: 2,367
Originally posted by hihoslva
Sorry for the mis-naming, mazdaspeedwest - I didn't read back in the thread - shoulda known it was you speaking up here
And the idea about extending the wire was just a thought - and one that I made a disclaimer with, saying I had no real experience. Sorry, Pampusik - didn't mean to mislead you - I was just theorizing - improperly, too, it seems. Thanks for chiming in and advising against it MSW (okay if I shorten your overly-long username to MSW? Hehe
).
BTW - MSW, I'm gonna PM you soon - about the proper procedure for reprogramming a Prestige (Audiovox) remote. See - I tried to change some of the settings in my lady's Jeep - specifically, I wanted to have the horn honk ONLY with the alarm, and NOT along with the chirps of arm/disarm. My Prestige is capable of this - seems hers is not. Anyway, I wound up setting a valet code or something, and couldn't unlock or disarm the car with the fob (or any other way either) or start the truck. I wound up having to disconnect the entire brain just so she could drive. Anyway - after a trip to the shop, and a $5 tip to an installer, she's all re-set and working fine - but one of the fobs needs to be re-programmed to work the system again.
Sorry - wow, long explanation of nothing. Anyway, I'll PM you when I get the correct model numbers, and maybe you'll be able to give me SPECIFIC instructions on how to get the second fob to work again. They better be good, or else my lady ain't letting me NEAR her truck.
Good luck, Pampusik - I'm betting MSW can steer you in the right direction.
~HH
Sorry for the mis-naming, mazdaspeedwest - I didn't read back in the thread - shoulda known it was you speaking up here
And the idea about extending the wire was just a thought - and one that I made a disclaimer with, saying I had no real experience. Sorry, Pampusik - didn't mean to mislead you - I was just theorizing - improperly, too, it seems. Thanks for chiming in and advising against it MSW (okay if I shorten your overly-long username to MSW? Hehe
).BTW - MSW, I'm gonna PM you soon - about the proper procedure for reprogramming a Prestige (Audiovox) remote. See - I tried to change some of the settings in my lady's Jeep - specifically, I wanted to have the horn honk ONLY with the alarm, and NOT along with the chirps of arm/disarm. My Prestige is capable of this - seems hers is not. Anyway, I wound up setting a valet code or something, and couldn't unlock or disarm the car with the fob (or any other way either) or start the truck. I wound up having to disconnect the entire brain just so she could drive. Anyway - after a trip to the shop, and a $5 tip to an installer, she's all re-set and working fine - but one of the fobs needs to be re-programmed to work the system again.
Sorry - wow, long explanation of nothing. Anyway, I'll PM you when I get the correct model numbers, and maybe you'll be able to give me SPECIFIC instructions on how to get the second fob to work again. They better be good, or else my lady ain't letting me NEAR her truck.
Good luck, Pampusik - I'm betting MSW can steer you in the right direction.
~HH
no problem dude, MSW, dude, bro, Master, Darryl....all fine
November-9th-2002, 01:57 PM
#18
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Toronto,Canada
Posts: 42
Hi guys,
I was under dashboard, do not figure out which one of the boxes is brain. Black box looked like, so tried push-in all the connectors and small white box on side of it ( this one was on something like ground bracket).
I do not know what I did but now it is reacting to remote from 2-4 meters, so it is way better than looking for position from where to unlock. Probably it is/was ground problem.
My remote is 2 buttons ( 1st is ON/OFF and 2nd AUX-probably not connected because I did not find any reaction to this one ).
I was under dashboard, do not figure out which one of the boxes is brain. Black box looked like, so tried push-in all the connectors and small white box on side of it ( this one was on something like ground bracket).
I do not know what I did but now it is reacting to remote from 2-4 meters, so it is way better than looking for position from where to unlock. Probably it is/was ground problem.
My remote is 2 buttons ( 1st is ON/OFF and 2nd AUX-probably not connected because I did not find any reaction to this one ).
November-10th-2002, 04:51 AM
#19
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Huntington Beach, CA Uhhh Surfs up Dude
Posts: 2,367
like i said, if it was a ground problem, you have more than just poor range, sometimes even by moving it slightly, can have good effects.
do the remotes look like these? they are the only 2 btn remotes shown on their site
www.autopageusa.com
do the remotes look like these? they are the only 2 btn remotes shown on their site
www.autopageusa.com
November-18th-2002, 06:10 PM
#20
Protege Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Toronto,Canada
Posts: 42
Hi MSW,
after couple of days of laziness I again looked under dashboard. Box which I meant is remote - is not. I found one completely similar to your picture tied up to bracket nearby wheel ( under dashboard. It is tied by 2 plastic strips- those for sure are not getting any ground. Box has same pastic brackets as on your picture and same connectors ( even I see now wires going to LED light signalizing activation- which is placed by shift ****). It is not possible to see any numbers underneath. On the small white connector is made small loop (about 1") from grey wire, but I do not see any antena ( even on yor picture). I have to get better look if it is possible somehow dismantle bottom part of dashbourd- in that case I could better see and reach main unit.
Do you have any idea how to reach it best, I am not doing YOGA and lying down and turn head 120 degrees is making my old bones cracking.
Thanks for all yours advices so far, this forum is perfect.
Pampusik
after couple of days of laziness I again looked under dashboard. Box which I meant is remote - is not. I found one completely similar to your picture tied up to bracket nearby wheel ( under dashboard. It is tied by 2 plastic strips- those for sure are not getting any ground. Box has same pastic brackets as on your picture and same connectors ( even I see now wires going to LED light signalizing activation- which is placed by shift ****). It is not possible to see any numbers underneath. On the small white connector is made small loop (about 1") from grey wire, but I do not see any antena ( even on yor picture). I have to get better look if it is possible somehow dismantle bottom part of dashbourd- in that case I could better see and reach main unit.
Do you have any idea how to reach it best, I am not doing YOGA and lying down and turn head 120 degrees is making my old bones cracking.
Thanks for all yours advices so far, this forum is perfect.
Pampusik
November-20th-2002, 01:53 AM
#21
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Huntington Beach, CA Uhhh Surfs up Dude
Posts: 2,367
HAHAHHA, yes, it does take it's toll on the body...
sounds like you found it, yes, removing lower dash panels will make it much easier. With a pair of dykes (cutting pliers) cut the plastic zip ties, being careful not to cut any wires in the looms.
the antenna generally is the only wire coming from the unit that is not in a loom and has no connection, as always black. most Autopage and most units have the antenna out the back (or the side with secondary connectors)
sounds like you found it, yes, removing lower dash panels will make it much easier. With a pair of dykes (cutting pliers) cut the plastic zip ties, being careful not to cut any wires in the looms.
the antenna generally is the only wire coming from the unit that is not in a loom and has no connection, as always black. most Autopage and most units have the antenna out the back (or the side with secondary connectors)
November-23rd-2002, 10:58 PM
#22
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Toronto,Canada
Posts: 42
I have found antena, damn it was still there, how I could overlooked it?
it is about 10" long. You recommend to wrap it arround some power wire , is that rirght?
When I tried to lift it out of dashboard have noticed any difference.
Any recomendations?
Pampusik
it is about 10" long. You recommend to wrap it arround some power wire , is that rirght?
When I tried to lift it out of dashboard have noticed any difference.
Any recomendations?
Pampusik
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