remote keyless entry
November-7th-2002, 05:35 PM
#1
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Toronto,Canada
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remote keyless entry
Hi there,
I`v just bought MP `99, 1.8 engine with probably aftermarket remote keyless entry. It is really unsensitive, I have to be "stick" to window te send signal.
I wrote to producer - Car-Pro - and they said that probably main unit is to far or ground. How can I find this "main unit"? If I go to some keyless remote installer they immediatelly charge you.
1.)Can anybody help to figure out where this unit can be placed or
2.)does anybody know if it is possible to adjust sensitivity simillar way like it is on alarms?
Thanks in advance.
Pampusik
I`v just bought MP `99, 1.8 engine with probably aftermarket remote keyless entry. It is really unsensitive, I have to be "stick" to window te send signal.
I wrote to producer - Car-Pro - and they said that probably main unit is to far or ground. How can I find this "main unit"? If I go to some keyless remote installer they immediatelly charge you.
1.)Can anybody help to figure out where this unit can be placed or
2.)does anybody know if it is possible to adjust sensitivity simillar way like it is on alarms?
Thanks in advance.
Pampusik
November-7th-2002, 06:16 PM
#2
Show Layne some respect
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Long Island,NY
Posts: 2,458
I'd try changing the battery in the remote first.
The "brain" as it is called, is probably located under the dash somewhere, if you need to look for it - most likely about 6" x 6" box with a LOT of wires coming from it - and often, the box is not mounted - it kinda sticks in there by the tension of the wires.
This is assuming it is an alarm/remote entry unit.
But definitely try the battery first - go to Radio Shack if the fob uses some strange kind of battery - they seem to have 'em all.
~HH
The "brain" as it is called, is probably located under the dash somewhere, if you need to look for it - most likely about 6" x 6" box with a LOT of wires coming from it - and often, the box is not mounted - it kinda sticks in there by the tension of the wires.
This is assuming it is an alarm/remote entry unit.
But definitely try the battery first - go to Radio Shack if the fob uses some strange kind of battery - they seem to have 'em all.
~HH
November-7th-2002, 09:55 PM
#3
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remote keyless entry
battery is quite standard 12V alkaline ( small thick one), so I`ll change it tomorrow. But fob is giving signal. Do you think that with little drained battery signal is less strong, can anybody confirm that? Never happend to me with for example garage door opener.
November-7th-2002, 10:02 PM
#4
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: southeast texas, near houston
Posts: 4,118
Re: remote keyless entry
Originally posted by Pampusik
battery is quite standard 12V alkaline ( small thick one), so I`ll change it tomorrow. But fob is giving signal. Do you think that with little drained battery signal is less strong, can anybody confirm that? Never happend to me with for example garage door opener.
battery is quite standard 12V alkaline ( small thick one), so I`ll change it tomorrow. But fob is giving signal. Do you think that with little drained battery signal is less strong, can anybody confirm that? Never happend to me with for example garage door opener.
November-7th-2002, 10:31 PM
#6
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Huntington Beach, CA Uhhh Surfs up Dude
Posts: 2,367
if the alarm had a bad ground, it would be showing far more symptoms than just poor range. As stated, replace battery first, if still has poor range, check the brains antenna wire (small thin black wire that has no connection) if it's stretched out and relativly straight, try wraping it around a large power wire loom nearby, if none available, wrap it around the alarms wire loom. and if it's already wraped, try straightening it out.
9.99 times out of 10 it's a weak battery.
BTW, Car-Pro is a model by Autopage.
9.99 times out of 10 it's a weak battery.
BTW, Car-Pro is a model by Autopage.
November-8th-2002, 10:18 AM
#7
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Yes - even if the remote is showing a signal, the range will be reduced if the batt is getting weak. You won't necessarily be able to see the LED on the fob get dimmer.
My batt simply died suddenly a few weeks ago - and the car was locked and armed. I had to rip open the spare fob for my wife's system that I carry, and swap batteries.
I know all systems are different - but can anyone advise as to how to be able to start the car if I can't disarm my alarm? It's a Prestige (AudioVox) - cheap stuff I know, but it works. Would I use the valet switch for something like this? I don't want to get stuck again.
Advice would be great.
~HH
My batt simply died suddenly a few weeks ago - and the car was locked and armed. I had to rip open the spare fob for my wife's system that I carry, and swap batteries.
I know all systems are different - but can anyone advise as to how to be able to start the car if I can't disarm my alarm? It's a Prestige (AudioVox) - cheap stuff I know, but it works. Would I use the valet switch for something like this? I don't want to get stuck again.
Advice would be great.
~HH
November-8th-2002, 06:30 PM
#8
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So, I`v changed battery, no difference.
So far I gave only fast look under dashboard and only think which remind me "box" you mentioned is 1"x2"x4" and there are 3 connectors with couple of wires going in and out.
I would like to check it but liitle bit scared to disconnect, if remote will work after and do not "loose " contact with main unit.
Any advice if it is even possible to adjust it somehow?
Reminding: it is only remote keyless entry not alarm
I am posting answer for similar question from sales@autopageusa.com: I would go back to the dealer where you had it installed and have them move the position of the main unit because it might be mounted in a area where the might be some interference or a ground problem
It was not installed in mine Mazda dealer, and others wants even for checking 30CAD , so I prefer experienced guys from this well done forum.
Thanks for all your inputs.
Pampusik
So far I gave only fast look under dashboard and only think which remind me "box" you mentioned is 1"x2"x4" and there are 3 connectors with couple of wires going in and out.
I would like to check it but liitle bit scared to disconnect, if remote will work after and do not "loose " contact with main unit.
Any advice if it is even possible to adjust it somehow?
Reminding: it is only remote keyless entry not alarm
I am posting answer for similar question from sales@autopageusa.com: I would go back to the dealer where you had it installed and have them move the position of the main unit because it might be mounted in a area where the might be some interference or a ground problem
It was not installed in mine Mazda dealer, and others wants even for checking 30CAD , so I prefer experienced guys from this well done forum.
Thanks for all your inputs.
Pampusik
November-8th-2002, 06:48 PM
#9
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If moving the unit is necessary, you should be able to do it yourself.
Disconnecting and then reconnecting the box should not screw up anything - your remote should still work after re-connection.
Maybe you could disconnect it, get some wire, and splice in some extensions to lengthen the harnesses, and re-mount it in a different location. Just an idea.
TheMan might have some better ideas - like the wrapping of the antenna wire (assuming it has one) around something to extend the range. Maybe just extending the antenna wire would do - grab another 6 feet or so and run it into the engine bay maybe. Just more ideas.
I'm thinking that maybe (Man - any input on this?) the power connection to the unit is weak, reducing the range. If you can trace the power connection (to the battery perhaps - or maybe the fusebox?) you can make sure it's solid and corrosion-free. Yet another idea.
Does your car start okay? If your car battery is weak, it'll affect these types of things - do your windows work okay when the car is off? Any signs of a weak battery at all? And that's my last idea, as I really have no experience with these things (beyond trying to change the settings of an alarm and screwing the settings up completely - just ask my wife
).
good luck.
~HH
Disconnecting and then reconnecting the box should not screw up anything - your remote should still work after re-connection.
Maybe you could disconnect it, get some wire, and splice in some extensions to lengthen the harnesses, and re-mount it in a different location. Just an idea.
TheMan might have some better ideas - like the wrapping of the antenna wire (assuming it has one) around something to extend the range. Maybe just extending the antenna wire would do - grab another 6 feet or so and run it into the engine bay maybe. Just more ideas.
I'm thinking that maybe (Man - any input on this?) the power connection to the unit is weak, reducing the range. If you can trace the power connection (to the battery perhaps - or maybe the fusebox?) you can make sure it's solid and corrosion-free. Yet another idea.
Does your car start okay? If your car battery is weak, it'll affect these types of things - do your windows work okay when the car is off? Any signs of a weak battery at all? And that's my last idea, as I really have no experience with these things (beyond trying to change the settings of an alarm and screwing the settings up completely - just ask my wife
).good luck.
~HH
November-8th-2002, 07:54 PM
#10
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Join Date: Nov 2002
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how do you mean that-car off? When I switch key OFF, windows for sure do not move.
By the way , in which positions door locks should stay when I switch OFF the key(engine). Mine car lock itself after switching OFF, so I have to unlock by button or pull out the lock trigger.Is that normal???
It was different on my Opel Vectra and Peugeot 309 back in Europe- after OFF- doors unlocked to go out and lock them from outside(vectra) or autolock after 15 sec when key is out from ignition ( Peugeot ).
Pampusik
By the way , in which positions door locks should stay when I switch OFF the key(engine). Mine car lock itself after switching OFF, so I have to unlock by button or pull out the lock trigger.Is that normal???
It was different on my Opel Vectra and Peugeot 309 back in Europe- after OFF- doors unlocked to go out and lock them from outside(vectra) or autolock after 15 sec when key is out from ignition ( Peugeot ).
Pampusik
November-8th-2002, 08:24 PM
#11
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Hehe - yeah sorry - Im a dumbass - windows with the car off. What a moron.
I guess you could try with the key in "accessory" position if you wanted.
As far as the auto locking - sounds like a setting in the remote entry module. You should be able to stop the doors from self-locking - but you might not be able to have the feature of having them auto UNlock when you shut the car off. Depends on the car and the system I suppose.
Have you tried extending the antenna wire (if you found it at all) yet? That really might help I would think.
~HH
I guess you could try with the key in "accessory" position if you wanted.
As far as the auto locking - sounds like a setting in the remote entry module. You should be able to stop the doors from self-locking - but you might not be able to have the feature of having them auto UNlock when you shut the car off. Depends on the car and the system I suppose.
Have you tried extending the antenna wire (if you found it at all) yet? That really might help I would think.
~HH
November-8th-2002, 08:42 PM
#12
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Join Date: Nov 2002
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I am going to dive under dahboard tomorrow, have to find some space for that- not possible in our underground parking lot.
Hope that according to advices from you guys I will figure something out.
Thnks for now.
Pampusik
( I am from the country of Ice hockey world champions)
Hope that according to advices from you guys I will figure something out.
Thnks for now.
Pampusik
( I am from the country of Ice hockey world champions)
November-8th-2002, 08:51 PM
#13
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Huntington Beach, CA Uhhh Surfs up Dude
Posts: 2,367
i DO NOT recommend extending the antenna wire, this could make things worse (as most manufactures recommend NOT doing this)
by unplugging and relocating the unit, it will not harm anything and the remotes will not lose their code. Just unplug the connectors, move the unit and then plug em back in.
and the wraping of the antenna was my idea, not theMan's Hihoslva
All alarms/keyless entry units have a receiver antenna wire.
disarming the system without a remote, is done with the key and valet switch. Procedure depends on brand.
If you can tell me the model number of the Keyless you have, i can get you the programming instructions.
by unplugging and relocating the unit, it will not harm anything and the remotes will not lose their code. Just unplug the connectors, move the unit and then plug em back in.
and the wraping of the antenna was my idea, not theMan's Hihoslva
All alarms/keyless entry units have a receiver antenna wire.
disarming the system without a remote, is done with the key and valet switch. Procedure depends on brand.
If you can tell me the model number of the Keyless you have, i can get you the programming instructions.
November-8th-2002, 09:06 PM
#14
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Toronto,Canada
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here is what I`m reading from remote fob:
Car-Pro XT58
FCC ID: H50603
What I remember from that fast look there are not such a long wires to move that unit, but maybe the box I saw is not the remote unit, I will have to have better and longer look to figure out more.
Where the hell guys are you taking such usefull knowkedges?
Pampusik
Car-Pro XT58
FCC ID: H50603
What I remember from that fast look there are not such a long wires to move that unit, but maybe the box I saw is not the remote unit, I will have to have better and longer look to figure out more.
Where the hell guys are you taking such usefull knowkedges?
Pampusik
November-8th-2002, 09:32 PM
#15
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Originally posted by mazdaspeedwest
i DO NOT recommend extending the antenna wire, this could make things worse (as most manufactures recommend NOT doing this)
by unplugging and relocating the unit, it will not harm anything and the remotes will not lose their code. Just unplug the connectors, move the unit and then plug em back in.
and the wraping of the antenna was my idea, not theMan's Hihoslva
All alarms/keyless entry units have a receiver antenna wire.
disarming the system without a remote, is done with the key and valet switch. Procedure depends on brand.
If you can tell me the model number of the Keyless you have, i can get you the programming instructions.
i DO NOT recommend extending the antenna wire, this could make things worse (as most manufactures recommend NOT doing this)
by unplugging and relocating the unit, it will not harm anything and the remotes will not lose their code. Just unplug the connectors, move the unit and then plug em back in.
and the wraping of the antenna was my idea, not theMan's Hihoslva
All alarms/keyless entry units have a receiver antenna wire.
disarming the system without a remote, is done with the key and valet switch. Procedure depends on brand.
If you can tell me the model number of the Keyless you have, i can get you the programming instructions.
And the idea about extending the wire was just a thought - and one that I made a disclaimer with, saying I had no real experience. Sorry, Pampusik - didn't mean to mislead you - I was just theorizing - improperly, too, it seems. Thanks for chiming in and advising against it MSW (okay if I shorten your overly-long username to MSW? Hehe
).BTW - MSW, I'm gonna PM you soon - about the proper procedure for reprogramming a Prestige (Audiovox) remote. See - I tried to change some of the settings in my lady's Jeep - specifically, I wanted to have the horn honk ONLY with the alarm, and NOT along with the chirps of arm/disarm. My Prestige is capable of this - seems hers is not. Anyway, I wound up setting a valet code or something, and couldn't unlock or disarm the car with the fob (or any other way either) or start the truck. I wound up having to disconnect the entire brain just so she could drive. Anyway - after a trip to the shop, and a $5 tip to an installer, she's all re-set and working fine - but one of the fobs needs to be re-programmed to work the system again.
Sorry - wow, long explanation of nothing. Anyway, I'll PM you when I get the correct model numbers, and maybe you'll be able to give me SPECIFIC instructions on how to get the second fob to work again. They better be good, or else my lady ain't letting me NEAR her truck.
Good luck, Pampusik - I'm betting MSW can steer you in the right direction.
~HH