Paging Sir Nuke :)
July-6th-2003, 04:08 AM
#1
Protege Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 16
Paging Sir Nuke :)
Well I think I've decided I want to get a system like yours. Notably stock HU with amp and new speakers all around. No sub for now, but might add one in the future. I'm a total newbie with a 02 ES sedan.
So do you have a recommendation on what amp to get and the respective speakers? Also how hard is it to do just that install? Do I need to go to crutchfield and get the extra tools and directions etc that come "free" or can I just do it myself with basic tools and buy cheaper elsewhere?
As an indication of the level of my noobness, I have built my own computer, so I'm not afraid to mess around a bit.
Is there a wiring diagram for that specific install? I'm looking to get the infiniti kappas.
Thanks
So do you have a recommendation on what amp to get and the respective speakers? Also how hard is it to do just that install? Do I need to go to crutchfield and get the extra tools and directions etc that come "free" or can I just do it myself with basic tools and buy cheaper elsewhere?
As an indication of the level of my noobness, I have built my own computer, so I'm not afraid to mess around a bit.
Is there a wiring diagram for that specific install? I'm looking to get the infiniti kappas.
Thanks
July-6th-2003, 12:18 PM
#2
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 74
Sir Nuke is the expert on this, but I just finished a similar install on an 02 ES. I was surprised how easy the car was to work on.
The only specialty tool that I'd recommend is to get two sets of Ford radio removal keys to take out the factory head unit. I got mine at WalMart for less than $4 a set. Best $ I spent, as it made removing the radio a snap.
Sir Nuke has his own custom made set of tools that should work as well or better, if you want to fabricate them.
As for an amp selection, the Alpine 5 channel Sir Nuke used is hard to beat. I already had a sub and amp, so I went with a 4 channel.
I would spring for a 5 channel, if budget allows, so you'll be set for a sub down the road without much additional wiring, etc. An amp with speaker and line level (RCA) inputs would also add to your options, as you can plug the speaker level leads from the factory head unit directly into the amp.
If you check this board, you'll find that:
1) running speaker wires to the doos is a pain and
2) the available after market wiring harnesses don't have all the pins needed to retain all the factory functions of the deck. The pins that are missing handle the illumination and dimming function of the deck
You can overcome the 1st issue by using the factory wiring. I did this by using a reverse and a standard wiring harness, leading the speaker outputs from the head unit to the amp, and the amp outputs back to the factory wiring harness.
To keep the dimming and illumination functions of the deck, I ordered 2 reverse harnesses - pulled the needed size pins from one - and added them to the proper spots in the other. You'll find the pinouts here in the sticky in this forum that tell you where to put them. Some others have used solid gauge wires, others have lived without the deck dimming when the lights go on and the lights on the buttons of the head unit.
You just need 1 standard harness. I had the Metra harness (from Autotoys.com) and it came with the needed wires. Unfortunately, one of them is in the wrong location, so you have to pull it out of the wrong hole and reinsert it into the correct hole in the harness. Not a tough thing to do, as long as you know what the pinouts are for the harness.
I moved the power antenna lead to the dimmer hole on my harness. We don't have power antennas on our cars, and the pin size is the same as the needed dimmer wire.
In all, the wiring is a bit more than "plug and play" to get everything working perfectly, but it is doable by anyone familiar with everyday tools.
The end result is definitely worth the effort. The Protege is a great car, but the audio plain stinks for all but am listening. An upgraded amp and speakers makes all the difference in sound, but keeps the factory look of the dash and does not attract theives.
I believe Sir Nuke put his amp under one of the front seats. I put mine in the trunk, with the existing sub amp. Either option keeps the amp out of sight of the bad guys.
Best of luck on your install. If you have any questions, this board has some top notch experts that I've learned a ton from. I'm sure you'll get whatever you need right here.
The only specialty tool that I'd recommend is to get two sets of Ford radio removal keys to take out the factory head unit. I got mine at WalMart for less than $4 a set. Best $ I spent, as it made removing the radio a snap.
Sir Nuke has his own custom made set of tools that should work as well or better, if you want to fabricate them.
As for an amp selection, the Alpine 5 channel Sir Nuke used is hard to beat. I already had a sub and amp, so I went with a 4 channel.
I would spring for a 5 channel, if budget allows, so you'll be set for a sub down the road without much additional wiring, etc. An amp with speaker and line level (RCA) inputs would also add to your options, as you can plug the speaker level leads from the factory head unit directly into the amp.
If you check this board, you'll find that:
1) running speaker wires to the doos is a pain and
2) the available after market wiring harnesses don't have all the pins needed to retain all the factory functions of the deck. The pins that are missing handle the illumination and dimming function of the deck
You can overcome the 1st issue by using the factory wiring. I did this by using a reverse and a standard wiring harness, leading the speaker outputs from the head unit to the amp, and the amp outputs back to the factory wiring harness.
To keep the dimming and illumination functions of the deck, I ordered 2 reverse harnesses - pulled the needed size pins from one - and added them to the proper spots in the other. You'll find the pinouts here in the sticky in this forum that tell you where to put them. Some others have used solid gauge wires, others have lived without the deck dimming when the lights go on and the lights on the buttons of the head unit.
You just need 1 standard harness. I had the Metra harness (from Autotoys.com) and it came with the needed wires. Unfortunately, one of them is in the wrong location, so you have to pull it out of the wrong hole and reinsert it into the correct hole in the harness. Not a tough thing to do, as long as you know what the pinouts are for the harness.
I moved the power antenna lead to the dimmer hole on my harness. We don't have power antennas on our cars, and the pin size is the same as the needed dimmer wire.
In all, the wiring is a bit more than "plug and play" to get everything working perfectly, but it is doable by anyone familiar with everyday tools.
The end result is definitely worth the effort. The Protege is a great car, but the audio plain stinks for all but am listening. An upgraded amp and speakers makes all the difference in sound, but keeps the factory look of the dash and does not attract theives.
I believe Sir Nuke put his amp under one of the front seats. I put mine in the trunk, with the existing sub amp. Either option keeps the amp out of sight of the bad guys.
Best of luck on your install. If you have any questions, this board has some top notch experts that I've learned a ton from. I'm sure you'll get whatever you need right here.
July-6th-2003, 04:30 PM
#3
Master of All Things :{D
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: southeast texas, near houston
Posts: 4,118
here is the trick at the moment....you only want your door speakers now...but would want to add a SUB later...well then the 5 channel I got would be the way to go....only ONE little problem. for some reason Alpine decided that they were going to discontinue makeing the 5 channel this year....but I am sure if you shop around you can still find one like I got (MRP-F320), just amp the door speakers...then when you decide to get the sub...all you have to do is put the sub in the back and run some speaker wires to the amp...and its ready to go. you see this amp has a seperate 120watt channel specifically for the sub.
As for special tools...none required....Aydu just gave you some excelent advice and knowledge about using a standard and a reverse harness so you can connect them back to back which makes you your own little jumber so that you don't have to cut the stock harness.
by using the Alpine amp, which accepts SPEAKER LEVEL INPUTS...you don't need any other special adapters.
IF you can not find one of the 5 channel amps.....well then get the 4 channel. go ahead and amp all the door speakers.....then if you decide to get a sub later....what I would do is disconnect the rear door speakers and start running them off the deck and bridge the rears off of the amp and run the sub off of those. you REALLY don't hear much from your rear speakers anyway in a P5.
but first I would really look hard for the MRP-F320.
I ran my power for the amp down the drivers side of the car....all the speaker wires ran from behind the deck through the console to the amp under the drivers seat and back the same way. The stock speaker wires are more than enough to handle up to about 80 watts RMS....so no need to do anything with them.
give me a yell via email or Pm if you need any help.
As for special tools...none required....Aydu just gave you some excelent advice and knowledge about using a standard and a reverse harness so you can connect them back to back which makes you your own little jumber so that you don't have to cut the stock harness.
by using the Alpine amp, which accepts SPEAKER LEVEL INPUTS...you don't need any other special adapters.
IF you can not find one of the 5 channel amps.....well then get the 4 channel. go ahead and amp all the door speakers.....then if you decide to get a sub later....what I would do is disconnect the rear door speakers and start running them off the deck and bridge the rears off of the amp and run the sub off of those. you REALLY don't hear much from your rear speakers anyway in a P5.
but first I would really look hard for the MRP-F320.
I ran my power for the amp down the drivers side of the car....all the speaker wires ran from behind the deck through the console to the amp under the drivers seat and back the same way. The stock speaker wires are more than enough to handle up to about 80 watts RMS....so no need to do anything with them.
give me a yell via email or Pm if you need any help.
July-6th-2003, 07:02 PM
#4
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 70
July-6th-2003, 08:45 PM
#5
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 74
Here is the 4 Channel amp I got from these sellers on EBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...&category=4950
I live locally to the seller, so I picked up the amp in person, saving the shipping. The store had this amp on display priced at $289.00. The $99 sale price is for real - new Coustic 4 Channel amp that accepts speaker leads or RCA connections. It also has an RCA output, to connect to another amp if you add a sub.
I've had Coustic amps in the past and always had good luck with them. This one has 40 watts/channel, has built in crossovers, and can be bridged to handle a sub with 160 watts at 4 ohms.
Good amp - great price.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...&category=4950
I live locally to the seller, so I picked up the amp in person, saving the shipping. The store had this amp on display priced at $289.00. The $99 sale price is for real - new Coustic 4 Channel amp that accepts speaker leads or RCA connections. It also has an RCA output, to connect to another amp if you add a sub.
I've had Coustic amps in the past and always had good luck with them. This one has 40 watts/channel, has built in crossovers, and can be bridged to handle a sub with 160 watts at 4 ohms.
Good amp - great price.
July-6th-2003, 09:27 PM
#6
Master of All Things :{D
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: southeast texas, near houston
Posts: 4,118
well I have no experience with the Coustic Amp.....
I DO know what you are getting with the Alpine I got into them based on some advice from an expert when I was just getting into this.....this amp is great. the 4 channel NEW is only $200...and the 5 channel isn't much more. maybe $240.....and if you look around...I am sure you can find them on Ebay.....if you want to go that way.
I DO know what you are getting with the Alpine I got into them based on some advice from an expert when I was just getting into this.....this amp is great. the 4 channel NEW is only $200...and the 5 channel isn't much more. maybe $240.....and if you look around...I am sure you can find them on Ebay.....if you want to go that way.
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