Dave Cameron

for what it is worth, you would not get a difference in sound unless there had been some type of interferece (noise) getting injected into the stock wires. There are countless arguements in the world about can anyone really hear a difference in speaker cables, and the concensus would be no, unless you are comparing a single strand the size of a hair to thousand strand OFC cables, and maybe not even then!
So don't dispair about it. If you get noise like pops or alternator whine, then revisit the wires. Otherwise- I look forward to seeing your new setup in photos!

hihoslva

Just quick - I did give up on the wiring, and I don't think I'm missing anything by using the stock wires - everything sounds great.

You wrote in your last post that you look forward to pics? click the link under the pic in my sig to see some if you're still interested.

Dave Cameron

fantastic looking install, and very sharp amp rack. Great detail on the wiring, nice touch. The tweeters install look fantastic! Your amp power switch and the bass volume know are really well done and look OEM.
A great install, you should feel a great sense of achivement and pride!
AND the cats all look nice! We have two, four if you include my with and daughter- they can get catty!

mazdaspeedwest

Yup, great install, i really like the tweeter locations. Maybe you knew (or maybe you didn't) but when installing separates, the tweeter should be as close to the woofer axis as possible.

but do as i say, not as i do...hehehhe, as my tweeters are on the mirror corner peice, but i also have 3way comps up front, so i could argue that it is a close as possible

hihoslva

I originally had add-on tweeters in the mirror panels - but since I was upgrading everything, I figured I should take all the advice I've read concerning tweeter placement and staging, and put them where they "belong"

I'm still looking into achieveing a better stage without kick panels - I'd like to angle the door speakers with some new adapter plates, but I'm a bit unsure as to just how much angle I can get inside, and whether the portion of the sound that will then be directed between the interior door panel and the door itself will actually cause some loss in SQ and staging.

Unfortunately, I think only a little trial and error will tell the story - but I am working on adapter plates that may be able to be swiveled, similar to the I-mount tweeters, so they can be installed and then adjusted. It may require a little trimming of the metal door panel, but hey - no pain, no gain

Shawn

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I went to my favorite local car audio place and asked them if they could install new wiring for my doors to go through the stock boot like the factory wires. He said that I had a wiring system with a bunch of harnesses rather than a simple long wire running through(we all knew that already). He told me that he has done lots of rewiring to cars with this type of wiring. He manages to drill through the harness enough to fit the wires. He has never missed his aim and damaged any other wires before. Apparently this is a pretty simple thing to do for a car audio expert.
I don't fully understand the complexities of this job but I trust this guy(he did my last install) and know he'll do it without troubles. If you want some new 14 gauge wiring to your doors go talk to the installation people at your fav car audio store. They can help point you in the right direction to do it yourself or if you're like me, you can pay them to do it. That way, if anything goes wrong, they fix it for free.

P.S. Sorry for all the pronouns.