bergdh

I just wired in my sub and amp last night and I have a problem. Im not a pro at it but I have a general idea of whats going on.

I have the stock reciever and had to use a in line adapter to splice into the L & R rear speaker lines and then it converts it into a rca jack for the amp inputs. That adapter is pretty cheezy but I guess it does the trick. Every things seems to opperate fine, but when you turn the volume up past 15 the sub cuts out.

Is this due to the stock reciever having some sort of signal cutter, so that when you turn it up it wont sound distorted? Or do I have something wired wrong?

Help me out please!
Thanks

Da P-Funk!

What is the impedeance load to the amp? Did you wire two subs in parallel resulting in a one ohm load in amp in 'bridged' mode? If so - the amp is overloading and going into protection mode...
If it is one amp into one sub - feel it to see if hot when cranking it up at '14'. Is it getting a good source of cool air? Is it mounted upside down?

Need more information on the installation here... Did you use heavy gauge power cables?

bergdh

I did use heavy guage power wires, with a inline fuse. Its a relativly small 300 watt rms alpine amp and a 10" Fosgate sub rated to 350 watts. the amp is installed under the passenger seat and should have plenty of air flow. I have never felt it "too" hot.

I had this system instaled in a previous car with a kenwood deck and never had this problem, but that could be due to it being wired with the sub outputs and not a splice into the rear speakers....right?

I do have it bridged for the single 10" sub on the amp speaker outputs. Is that causeing a problem now?

The unit I bought to convert the rear speaker splice into the rca jacks does have line input adjustments....I assume to control the amount of signal coming into the amp, do i need to turn those down, they are all the way up now.

Da P-Funk!

-puzzled.
It sounds like everything you did was correct. Yeah, try turning down the input signal...

lhsguy721

i had a similiar problem a while back...dont bridge it...put the sub on one side of the amp. might work for you

dentinger

wait, when the guys at Bestbuy said that they're going to run the main power from the battery, the on/off whatever from the console (from a button im not using) and then for sound, run wires from the rear speakers....

is this what your explaining here? if so, i hope i dont have this problem,
btw, i have a 500W amp, and 2 JL 12W3's

dentinger

ok, i had the EXACT same problem....
(i had my subs installed at Futureshop)
so they had to install a fixed level line output converter,
basically, instead of just pluging the RCA (i think) plugs into the amp, you first plug the RCA plugs into the output converter, then you plug that into the amp....
it worked like a charm....i had my subs cranked all day with no problems....just rattles, lol...

ok, hopefully the link or pic works.....
its a pic of what the output converter looks like....

dentinger

and btw, that thing cost me about $20 CDN....in case u were wondering

bergdh

Well I had the remote wire that runs to the amp hooked up to the wrong wire on the back of the reciever. So when I would turn it up it would just cut out. now that it is fixed it works like a charm.