AwaKeN

I have a Protege 5 2002.5 with no Tweeters maybe US car have them ..

hihoslva

Or maybe I am mistaken and it was a 2003 add-on.

Either way, a 2000 Pro should not have 6 speakers. I think we may have another victim of the "there's a grille in my doors, so there's a speaker in there" syndrome.....

~HH

Kicker

I was pretty satified with my Kenwood deck KDC-8009 back in 98 but I got a real lemon, the motorized faced fucked up (1 month repair at kenwood) plus when it came back it was skipping so much it "almost" made my first JVC sound stable. My buddy had the exact same Hu and no problems at all. I was jalous of his unit.
In my civic i'm runing Pioneer DEH-P7200, not a glich, even with my eibach and tokiko I think it skipped twice, with the road in Quebec it's suprising.

But Kenwood are very good product (mine must have been made on a friday or monday... lol

ViperProtege5

I agree, the Pro 5 has 6 speakers but the tweeter are just components of the Drivers in the door. therefore all you do is wire the front speakers and the Tweeters will run in tandem to those. I would not waste moneya on amping the rears though. You sit in front so wahy would you care about how it sounds in the rear.
Rather than buying 1. a 5 channel amp (fronts Rears + Sub) or 2. a four channel amp that runs the Fronts & Rears buy eithera 3 channel amp like a Kicker KX550.3 and have two Single Voice (4 Ohm) Coil Subs in the rear running in Bridged mono at 2 Ohms. OR run a Four channel amp amplifiing the Fronts and two Dual Voice (4 Ohm) coil drivers in Parrallel Series. and genearte 4 ohms Mono off of the rear channel of the amp.

There is another alternative if you can arrange this. That is to run 2 single voice coil (8 ohm) drivers off the rear channel of a typical A/B Class amp. this will generate 4 Ohms on the rear of the amp. It is VERY difficult to find 8 ohm subs though!

Confused yet? PM me if you want & I'll email you pics of what I mean.

ViperProtege5

Kicker, that is really weird that the deck screwed up, and the even weirder part is that Kenwoods Head office for Canada is in Montreal, So why did it take a month? Must have been a shipping errr by the store

Dave Cameron

It doesn't have to be this hard at all!!! One four channel amp that is bridgeable will do, use two channels left and right front, bridge the rear channels into a single channel for a sub. Best flexability. 8 ohm in car audio really does not make sense- it just plain takes more power to get an output level that can be done easier with 4 ohms.

Dave Cameron

The kenwood products are fine!! I am like some others on the board, the electronic hardware imipresses me, but the speakers not so much.
I feel the same way about Pioneer equipment though- nice electronics but I am not big on the sound of the drivers.
And Alpine makes fine hardware also!!! The contentions associated with ohmage of RCA line output was dealt with in another post a while back, if anyone is really interested, then do a search or two and it will probably show up- otherwise let's all just keep that cat buried out back where it needs to stay!

On the older third gen cars, the upgrade speakers one could purhcase from Mazda for the front and rear were standard available over the counter Kenwood units, nothing unique or at the time hard to get. You can still pick them up on E-Bay on occasion, but they are no longer in production by Kenwood.
In the 02.5 models up Mazda started using a smaller tweeter with a bacic crossover in the front doors. They still offer the coax two way speakers from Kenwood as the upgrade path. I can't say if they will allow the use of the sail plane speakers or not if you use the upgrade speakers.
I would suggest you might want to spend a little time checking out the sound of as many various brands of speakers as you can audition, and then purchase some you like the sound of.
Good luck wading through the conflicting advise here, we really are a pretty helpful lot most of the time!
Let us all know what you decide to do please!

ViperProtege5

Most 4 Channel Amplifiers are not 2 Ohm MONO stable, so to run one Subwoofer is fine. But if you wrer to run two subs, the amp will go into protection. I regards to running 8 Ohm Voice Coils, Kicker, Phoenix Gold, Pioneer, Kenwood, and Sony all make 8 ohm Subs but don't ship alot because the car audio consumer has 4 ohm nailed into their psyche. 8 Ohm drivers are not any diffferent than 4 ohm drvers, they just make the Amplifier see a different resistance value. Most amplifiers will, however, generate more power at 4 ohms versus 2 ohms. But with the instability they will create the better long distance solution is not putting a Calss A/B amp to 2 ohms mono.

b_real45

Can someone explain this to me? Sorry for being teh n00b at this.. why is it that amps always put out more THD when running at lower ohms.

ViperProtege5

Amps put out more thd when they are at a lower impedance because there is less resistance. Therefore a stronger current, and more distortion.

Sound quality in a a Sub is negligable. Most people can't even hear a sub, they feel it. If you are concerned with quality;

Run a D Class sub amp with two Dual 2 Ohm Voice Coils and Seroies Parrallel them, You will generate 2 ohms Mono on the subs and they will (with the proper amplifier) run efficently and hammer like a mother ******! and it'll cost you more money. alot more!

However like I have said before most Class A/B amps, DO NOT HANDLE 2 OHM MONO. They used to 4-5 years ago, but Amp companies realised that they could make more money making subwoofer specific amplifiers. So they made Class A/B amps less efficent (about 50-70%) where as Class D is 75%-90% and Class T is 90%-98%

hihoslva

Not true. If you buy dual 4 ohm coil subs (widely available and very common) and run the colis in series and the subs parallel - boom, 4 ohm load. Not a problem at all.
Uh - WHAT? No amplifier will make more more power into 4 ohms than 2. Maybe you mis-typed - but ANY amp should put out DOUBLE the power (or close to it) on 2 ohms rather than 4. While most 2 channel class A/B amps are not stable to 2 ohms bridged, the reason for this is that they will generate more power than they can themselves handle, and overheat. Not a good idea to run 2 ohm mono on a class A/B amp, of course, but the amp certainly WILL put out more power at 2 ohms rather than 4.

~HH

ViperProtege5

oops my mistake, i meant that the other way around

Most amplifiers will generate more power at 2 Ohms than 4 ohms

I did refer to DVC's in series parallel, but didn't mention 4 ohm versus 2 ohm

two 4 ohm DVC's in series parallel will give you 4 ohms on the amp. But it had better be one helluva 4 channel (lots of power) or two really shitty Subs. Because more than likely you won't be running enough power for both drivers , probably not even enough to run one driver effectively.

two 2 ohm DVC's in series parallel will run at 2 ohms and than you will need a D-Class or T-Class amp to run them.

two 4 Ohm SVC's will create a 2 ohm load, D-class or T-class amp needed

two 8 ohm SVC's will create a 4 Ohm load, ANY AMP WILL DO

all i am trying to say is...**** I don't even remember the original point!
Oh well...

hihoslva

I don't understand these statements together. 4 ohms is 4 ohms. If an amp is running two DVC 4 ohm subs wired to 4 ohms together, it will power them exactly the same as two 8 ohm subs in parallel for 4 ohms.

~HH

UCSBgeek

not sure if I should make a new thread or not....

does anybody have a pin-out / wiring diagram for the MP919 (mazdaspeed stereo), right from the rear of the deck? I don't have any of the wiring harnesses. It just looks like the connector is pretty similar to the aftermarket HU that's already in my car.

If I can't reuse it I'll just buy a kenwood wire-harness ($10), and maybe I can find a reverse wiring harness for my first gen.

ViperProtege5

I am not sure exactly what you need. If you need wire colour I have them if you need a diagram of the pin, I don't. If you need a kenwood harness, Good luck, and if you need lovin' i ain't got none!

LOL