hihoslva

I'm posting this on various sound discussion boards - figured more opinions can only be better, so please advise if you have any idea what is going on here:

Okay - pics first:

Since I can't seem to get my pics to come through, PLEASE click on this following link and scroll to the LAST two photos on the page - labelled "Infinity Blown" & "Infinity Blown 2"

Click here!

How the hell did this happen? Details are:

The Perfect 10 specs - rated for 350 watts RMS, 1400 peak. Recommended sealed enclosure volume .6 cu/ft.

I was running this from a Rockford Fosgate amp, model 360.2: 360 watts RMS bridged into 4 ohms (right on for the sub). Max power, according to bench test sheet included with the amp: 543 watts.

All of my wiring was - and still is - fine - and I had the sub crossed over at approximately 90-100Hz.

The Infinity was mounted in a sealed enclosure with a slightly smaller-than-recommended volume. By my calculations, approximately .5 cu/ft sealed, rather than the .6 recommended.

The gains on the RF amp were maxxed, and I only got distortion at the absolute highest volume on my deck, which I never used other than to see if maxxing the gains was okay - my deck only has 2V pre-outs. I NEVER run the deck at full volume for listening purposes - in fact, I have recently been listening to it at lower volume; rarely more than "27" out of a max of "35".

The RF amp has a Punch Bass control centered at 45 Hz, and I did occasionally crank up the **** from the driver's seat - NEVER for extended periods, just for the occasional "bump", and only at relatively low listening levels. 95% of the time, the control was turned all the way DOWN.

So what the hell happened to my sub? The most power the RF amp can put out is 543 wats, so why did a 1400 watt peak sub rip apart on me? Even with the gains maxxed on the amp, I only sent distortion to the sub when the volume was well past my loudest listening level. Is it the enclosure?

Did I do this, or do I possibly have a defective sub, and a warranty issue? Can this be repaired? Is it costly? (I got the sub for $150 I think, and yes - it was brand new).

Since my lingo is not that great, could someone tell me exactly what damaged parts I am looking at, and what it is that tore, so that if I need to speak to someone about this, I can know what I'm talking about.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

azrakain

Where did you buy the sub? That is a warranty issue. They will replace it or send it out to be fixed. From the pic it looks like you ripped the cone off the voice coil. I saw this at a bass off two weeks ago with a 12" perfect. Much more power was being pushed than what you got going though. I hope you got the sub from an authorized dealer. Tell the shop to replace it with this: http://www.buyloud.com/product_detail.jsp?pid=1989
You won't blow it.

hihoslva

I got the sub from IkeSound.com. I will call them next week, as well as contact Infinity, and see what I can do.

In the meantime - DAMN - that JL is a monster! I don't have the depth in my box to mount it, though.

I was looking at the 10W6. Looks to be a comparable speaker to the Perfect. What I like about it is that it can be used in a box as small as .4 cu/ft - my box is about .5. Thats .1 smaller than recommended for the Perfect. The JL has an RMS handling of 300 (the perfect "was" 350) - I wonder if I run the risk of wrecking that one, too? Seems to me that everyone is raving about JL equipment - I would think it must be some good stuff.

Well, I don't think I really want another Infinity. In order to get the Perfect bumping at all, I had to have the gains on my amp cranked up (my HU is only 2V pre-out). And for a speaker that is supposed to be ableto take 1400 watts max, it didn't take too long for it to shred. The max I could posibly have put on it is 543 watts - the bench test for the RF amp.

I think no matter what, I'll ned to take it easy on my next sub - and to think, I was considering getting a BIGGER amp for the Infinity, thinking then I could turn my gains down some. Guess that woulda been wrong, huh?

Keep the suggestions coming on setups though - I like it tight, but with some "thump" too. So if I need to upgrade the sub AND the amp, too - well, I will consider all alternatives. I don't wanna go through this again for a long time.

onehawaiian

jl's w7 line is solid, but for the price, i could think of many other subs to buy.

personally, i like sq subs but do need to thump it from time to time. my fusion powerplant is bad@ss. but i am thinking of these subs the next time around:

diamond macdaddy
audiomobile evo-r
fusion jonah lomu
alumapro alchemy rx (soon to be released)

and these are all cheaper than jl audio's w7's, retail or online.

hihoslva

Any opinions on the W6's? I'm looking at the 10w6 - only issue is the dual 6 ohm coil - dunno if my RF amp will be safe at 3 ohms (it says it's 4 ohm stable bridged, but no less).

Anyone think I will blow up a 10w6 with a JBL 600.1? I really think the 10w6 is a great choice for me, especially considering that it can go in a .4 cu/ft box. I just don't wanna blow more stuff up .

I'd like to stay with an RF amp - I love the Puch bass control **** (even though I think non-judicious use of it killed my Perfect). But a class D RF amp (for the 3 ohm load) is like 2x the price of the JBL. I really liked being able to adjust the bass of the sub, without using the deck, which also bumps up the comps bass.

Hmmm... maybe now I need to get the JBL, ditch the Punch Bass control, and spend the "saved" money on a deck with better pre-outs and sub control. Can you say Pioneer P9400MP?

I am so lost - and I will be so poor .

CrappyBoy

That's a known problem with the infinity. Try to get your money back as this speaker is CRAP.

naki831

The perfects are not pieces of ****. I've been running my two 10's for 8 months with no problems (400W RMS each). People blow them because they think they can bump with them. They're not loud subs, especially sealed and in a small enclosure. If you want comparable sq with more bass, go with the w6 or w3. They can take a lot more abuse than the perfects.

CrappyBoy

Allright i did not mean CRAP like the product really sucks. I know for already owning 2 of them that they are FRAGILE. So like previous post say if your going for SPL well get something else !!!!

Sorry if i offended any owners.

hihoslva

Well, I would like SOME SPL - but with good SQ also.

Obviously, I was expecting too much of the Perfect.

I am seriously considering the JL 10w6 - looks to be an awesome sub, and can take a small enclosure like mine.

Anyone have opinions as to running my Rockford amp at 3 ohms? The manual states it's stable bridged down to 4, but no less.

I'm not opposed to running a fan if necessary. Anyone have opinions on running my RF at 3 ohms?

DJScribble

OK here's a short lesson:
dual 6 ohm coils, parallel = 3 ohms. That's at rest. However, while loaded in a sealed box, and playing music, probably the amp will never see that low of a load. The lower the frequency plaing, the lower the ohms load that the amp sees. So in a sealed box, it shouldn't hurt. Rockford training used to show us that you could run 3 dual 4-ohm subs in a sealed box off a rockford 2-channel amp (comes to 2.66 ohms at rest). So your 3 ohm load shouldn't be a problem. Just check the heat after a while, since it sounds like you pound it a lot.
By the way, if you can hear distortion, it's at almost 10%. As little as 1% sustained can kill speakers.

hihoslva

Cool man - thanks for the "short lesson"

Now to find a good price on a 10w6!

azrakain

I don't think I would go with the 10w6. Its a good driver, however until the new one is released its 7 year old technology. The W3s are 3 years old and are as good. Thats why you see the w6s and w3s for basically the same prices. $15-20 is nothing when it comes to car audio. I am running my amp bridged and have the gain somewhere around 65. The amp pushed 785W at the factory on the test bench and it is powering my 12W3. I would reccomend the 10w3 unless you can wait for the new w6s. Goto JL's web site. They have the specs on the new w6s. All of this information I have on the w6s is per 3 local shops and they all told me to go with the w3. I hope this helped you.

hihoslva

Well, after tons of posts all over the place, and quite a bit of research, I have definitely found my sub: Rockford Fosgate Power HX2 2110.

*10" (no box modification - I was considering two 8's).
*500 watts RMS / 1000 peak - I should never have this sub shred.
*Works in sealed boxes down to .2 cu/ft - all I can say is "wow" to that - at least I have more than .2 (about .5)
*Dual 2 ohm coils - so I can safely wire my amp to 4 ohms.

I'd say I found the perfect sub for my application (Perfect? Kappa Perfect? uh.....not again, no thank you. ).

And IkeSound.com is giving me about a 90% refund on the Infinity, and the HX2 is only $6 more than the refund - they'll probably just do a swap for me. They advertise the DVCx4ohm - I just have to check if they can get me a DVCx2ohm.

Thanks for the replies all - but this one seems solved (unless someone wants to make me cry with some bad info about the HX2 - but all I've heard is good stuff about them).

-HH