how to remove paint on painted emblem?
#1
how to remove paint on painted emblem?
Just wondering how to remove paint on painted emblem.
due to 4 hour of driving in the rain, my painted emblem has been peeled off little bit, so i want to remove all the paint on the emblem and repaint it?
do I use sand paper?
due to 4 hour of driving in the rain, my painted emblem has been peeled off little bit, so i want to remove all the paint on the emblem and repaint it?
do I use sand paper?
#2
I'm not sure what emblem you are talking about, that is painted. But I wouldn't reccomend sandpaper; you'll scratch the metal. I would use paint thinner, or some type of alcohol, and use a toothbrush, or q-tip to remove the paint.
-=Brad=-
-=Brad=-
#3
Re: how to remove paint on painted emblem?
Originally posted by Bijou-MP5
Just wondering how to remove paint on painted emblem.
due to 4 hour of driving in the rain, my painted emblem has been peeled off little bit, so i want to remove all the paint on the emblem and repaint it?
do I use sand paper?
Just wondering how to remove paint on painted emblem.
due to 4 hour of driving in the rain, my painted emblem has been peeled off little bit, so i want to remove all the paint on the emblem and repaint it?
do I use sand paper?
#4
I am guessing you painted the FLYING M that is on the front of your car...and unless my guess is wrong....I believe that thing is made of plastic....right? well if it is...soaking it in solvent MAY damage it too....so you would be better off with something you can rub it off with....like paint thinner or whatever...but don't soak the emblem....just rub it off.
and the reason that your paint most likely peeled...is that you didn't rough up the surface of the emblem before you painted it...you just shot the paint on top of the nice shinney chrome surface...the paint had nothing to GRAB onto...thus it peels easily.
if you want to paint it...and have it stay...you need to lightly sand the surface for th paint to stick and STAY stuck.
and the reason that your paint most likely peeled...is that you didn't rough up the surface of the emblem before you painted it...you just shot the paint on top of the nice shinney chrome surface...the paint had nothing to GRAB onto...thus it peels easily.
if you want to paint it...and have it stay...you need to lightly sand the surface for th paint to stick and STAY stuck.
#5
Hey!
Use "oops", and 320 grit sand paper. Reprimer it. Sand it. Paint it. Paint It. Paint It. Clear Coat it (heavy). Clear Coat it (heavy). I switched to Rustoleum Metallic Black and so far no problems. Seems better than the Krylon I put on yours (and mine in the past).
- Brian
Use "oops", and 320 grit sand paper. Reprimer it. Sand it. Paint it. Paint It. Paint It. Clear Coat it (heavy). Clear Coat it (heavy). I switched to Rustoleum Metallic Black and so far no problems. Seems better than the Krylon I put on yours (and mine in the past).
- Brian
#6
Originally posted by zmzmp5
Hey!
Use "oops", and 320 grit sand paper. Reprimer it. Sand it. Paint it. Paint It. Paint It. Clear Coat it (heavy). Clear Coat it (heavy). I switched to Rustoleum Metallic Black and so far no problems. Seems better than the Krylon I put on yours (and mine in the past).
- Brian
Hey!
Use "oops", and 320 grit sand paper. Reprimer it. Sand it. Paint it. Paint It. Paint It. Clear Coat it (heavy). Clear Coat it (heavy). I switched to Rustoleum Metallic Black and so far no problems. Seems better than the Krylon I put on yours (and mine in the past).
- Brian
Maybe I was careless on time when I was painting emblem.
#7
Three words - SEM Bumper Coater.
Stuff works like a charm, and is tough as nails. Go ahead and sand the piece to get the old stuff off - you'll need a slightly rough surface for any paint to bond well. I'd say start with 100 grit, and then work out the scratches to at least 220 or finer. Get it smooth, but "dull" looking.
SEM can be bought at most body shop supply stores, and it rocks. It's nearly solvent-resistant, sticks like crazy, has great color, and dries ultra fast so you can re-coat tons of times in just a few hours. They've also got "trim clear" to clearcoat the emblem.
I did mine months ago, and other than a few minor nicks from road sand (same crap that nicks the front end all the time anyway), it's held up great. My rear emblems are still perfect.
~HH
Stuff works like a charm, and is tough as nails. Go ahead and sand the piece to get the old stuff off - you'll need a slightly rough surface for any paint to bond well. I'd say start with 100 grit, and then work out the scratches to at least 220 or finer. Get it smooth, but "dull" looking.
SEM can be bought at most body shop supply stores, and it rocks. It's nearly solvent-resistant, sticks like crazy, has great color, and dries ultra fast so you can re-coat tons of times in just a few hours. They've also got "trim clear" to clearcoat the emblem.
I did mine months ago, and other than a few minor nicks from road sand (same crap that nicks the front end all the time anyway), it's held up great. My rear emblems are still perfect.
~HH
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Use some good 320 wet to start then move up to 600grit wet make sure you primier it and then paint it. clean all the grease or contaminets prior to paiting it. It may be worth your time to get some plastic prep prior to painting it.
Sounds like the plastic does not like the paint
Sounds like the plastic does not like the paint
#9
Originally posted by kosmicride
Use some good 320 wet to start then move up to 600grit wet make sure you primier it and then paint it. clean all the grease or contaminets prior to paiting it. It may be worth your time to get some plastic prep prior to painting it.
Sounds like the plastic does not like the paint
Use some good 320 wet to start then move up to 600grit wet make sure you primier it and then paint it. clean all the grease or contaminets prior to paiting it. It may be worth your time to get some plastic prep prior to painting it.
Sounds like the plastic does not like the paint
sorry i've living this country for few years.
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
There are a few stages to painting and making it last. The first is the prepping of the part to be painted, the second is the the Primering of the part (primer is the base coat that is sanded prior to painting it aids in the adhesion usually in gray color) Then you paint and clear.
#12
You can get regular automotive paint at almost any auto parts store (like AutoZone).
If you'd like the SEM Bumper Coater paint (and I'd really recommend it since it specifically made for adhesion to plastics), check a body shop supply store, or even get a local body shop to order some for you. Check the yellow pages for body shop supplies, and ask for SEM Bumper Coater and SEM Trim Clear. The Bumper Coater comes in a bunch of colors, including black.
~HH
If you'd like the SEM Bumper Coater paint (and I'd really recommend it since it specifically made for adhesion to plastics), check a body shop supply store, or even get a local body shop to order some for you. Check the yellow pages for body shop supplies, and ask for SEM Bumper Coater and SEM Trim Clear. The Bumper Coater comes in a bunch of colors, including black.
~HH
#13
Originally posted by hihoslva
You can get regular automotive paint at almost any auto parts store (like AutoZone).
If you'd like the SEM Bumper Coater paint (and I'd really recommend it since it specifically made for adhesion to plastics), check a body shop supply store, or even get a local body shop to order some for you. Check the yellow pages for body shop supplies, and ask for SEM Bumper Coater and SEM Trim Clear. The Bumper Coater comes in a bunch of colors, including black.
~HH
You can get regular automotive paint at almost any auto parts store (like AutoZone).
If you'd like the SEM Bumper Coater paint (and I'd really recommend it since it specifically made for adhesion to plastics), check a body shop supply store, or even get a local body shop to order some for you. Check the yellow pages for body shop supplies, and ask for SEM Bumper Coater and SEM Trim Clear. The Bumper Coater comes in a bunch of colors, including black.
~HH
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