Dual Amp Install Question
Thread Starter
Show Layne some respect
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,458
From: Long Island,NY
Wow dude - slow down! Just kidding - I'll answer all I can.
I grounded my old sub on a bolt that is under a cap on the driver's side of the hatch. They are on both sides, near the seatbacks, in that little angled plastic part near the floor. I have learned that there is a bolt under the seats - I might use that one for he new install, so my ground cable will be really short.
The distribution blocks were part of a kit I bought from speakerhole.com - DON'T buy from them. They took forever to ship, and then the kit didn't include everything they said it would - and return is a hassle. Anyway - I bought a dual amp install kit - it includes the power and ground blocks, power and ground cables, RCAs, remote wire, fuse holder, and some other stuff. So individually, I dunno how much - the kit was around $70.
The board is just MDF (medium density fiberboard) - I got four 2'x4' sheets at Home depot for $6 each - I made the sub box and amp rack and still have a sheet and a half left over.
You don't need remote distribution blocks - you can just splice the wires together and run one remote wire. I will run them separately, though, so I can still shut off just the bass amp with the switch. That switch is like a $2 item at most hardware stores.
My old install had the power under the driver's side and RCAs on the passenger side - and yeah, just under the sills. As long as it's hidden and not pinched by anything, it's fine by me, and I'll probably run my new wires the same way.
The box is custom made and fit by me to go in the passenger side of the hatch - I have uploaded some more photos to that album - including some test fitting shots - sometimes it takes a while for them to show up, though - check it again, there should be a few more pix there now.
Everything (rack board and sub box) is covered in grey vinyl (looks like leather). I'll post more pix once everything is finally installed - should be a couple of weeks, though. Slow and steady wins the race - I've been working on his for like a month already.
I grounded my old sub on a bolt that is under a cap on the driver's side of the hatch. They are on both sides, near the seatbacks, in that little angled plastic part near the floor. I have learned that there is a bolt under the seats - I might use that one for he new install, so my ground cable will be really short.
The distribution blocks were part of a kit I bought from speakerhole.com - DON'T buy from them. They took forever to ship, and then the kit didn't include everything they said it would - and return is a hassle. Anyway - I bought a dual amp install kit - it includes the power and ground blocks, power and ground cables, RCAs, remote wire, fuse holder, and some other stuff. So individually, I dunno how much - the kit was around $70.
The board is just MDF (medium density fiberboard) - I got four 2'x4' sheets at Home depot for $6 each - I made the sub box and amp rack and still have a sheet and a half left over.
You don't need remote distribution blocks - you can just splice the wires together and run one remote wire. I will run them separately, though, so I can still shut off just the bass amp with the switch. That switch is like a $2 item at most hardware stores.
My old install had the power under the driver's side and RCAs on the passenger side - and yeah, just under the sills. As long as it's hidden and not pinched by anything, it's fine by me, and I'll probably run my new wires the same way.
The box is custom made and fit by me to go in the passenger side of the hatch - I have uploaded some more photos to that album - including some test fitting shots - sometimes it takes a while for them to show up, though - check it again, there should be a few more pix there now.
Everything (rack board and sub box) is covered in grey vinyl (looks like leather). I'll post more pix once everything is finally installed - should be a couple of weeks, though. Slow and steady wins the race - I've been working on his for like a month already.
Protege Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 201
From: South Carolina
I'm not sure yet if I will need a capacitor (stores some extra juice so your lights don't pulse) but I can always put that in later if I need it.
Once it was installed all power issues including the window one do not dim the lights.
Thread Starter
Show Layne some respect
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,458
From: Long Island,NY
Damn, you've got a lot of ideas for me 
Seriously, I do appreciate it, though. I'm going to install everything as is, and if I decide I need the cap (or if my CAR decides I need it), I can always tuck one in there later on with no problem.
Seriously, I do appreciate it, though. I'm going to install everything as is, and if I decide I need the cap (or if my CAR decides I need it
), I can always tuck one in there later on with no problem.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,367
From: Huntington Beach, CA Uhhh Surfs up Dude
Originally posted by jcilforever
You will need a cap as rolling down the power windows strains the system, I got my 1 farad from lightining audio(caps ar caps except the show aspect one farad or two etc. yes one could hold a charge longer than another) $45 for a 1 farad was the right price for me off ebay Once it was installed all power issues including the window one do not dim the lights.
You will need a cap as rolling down the power windows strains the system, I got my 1 farad from lightining audio(caps ar caps except the show aspect one farad or two etc. yes one could hold a charge longer than another) $45 for a 1 farad was the right price for me off ebay
Once it was installed all power issues including the window one do not dim the lights.
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