univ715

I, like many the many other I've read about on this site, have had headlight dimming problems with my audio system in the '02 MP5. My alternator finally did die last month, but I gotta share how its gone down:

I am running a relatively stock MP5 (mods are PIAA Xtreme White bulbs for fog/hi/lo, Injen CAI, Viper 550ESP alarm/remote start, and tint) except for my audio system: Alpine CDA-7998 Preamp only HU, MB Quart PSD-316 3 way seps in custom kicks/doors biamped by JL 300/4, Boston Neo5T ambient tweeters, JL 12W7 powered by JL 500/1, 50 sq. ft. of Dynamat Extreme, Monster 1F cap, All wiring is Monster XLN and M series).

So I'm not running a ridiculous amount of power (800W ish), but by replacing the battery with an deep cycle SVR-80 (had to drop the battery tray), things got better, headlights then only slightly dimmed at crazy levels. When testing my system, I was drawing max 50amps w/ everything on full blast (lights, a/c, system, etc) so my installer figured I'd be cool.

BTW I did get a quote on a custom High Output alternator for the MP5: $700 and that was at 10% over my friend's shop's cost.

That system and battery were installed Sept '02 a month after I got the car. Fast forward to July 10, '04, and 36,000 miles later. Headed down Conn. Ave in D.C. to pick up a friend on the way to a club. The whole way my ABS light kept coming on. At red lights: my RPMs dipped REALLY low, all of the car's lights dimmed a lot, my system cut off. When I stopped to get him, the engine turned off and the Battery was dead. Called Mazda's Roadside Assistance and an hour and a half later the flatbed took it away since they didnt have jumper cables in the truck (weird, right??). They were towing it to the dealer 12 miles away and then the towtruck "got cut off right before a red light and rear ended the car in front of it" sending my probably improperly secured MP5's front end into the back of the tow truck's cab.

The tow company (slowly) paid $5500 for a new hood, grille, headlights, foglights, front and rear bumper, tie bar, radiator, A/C condenser and 2 new rims among other ****. 3 1/2 weeks later, I get the car back from the body shop. They keep jumping the battery and it kept dying regardless of how long the car was on to charge it, so I took it straight to the Dealer and they said that the Alternator was kaput and they'd replace it free under warranty. (BTW, the stock alternator costs $270 + labor) I was worried that my system would void the warranty, but finally, some luck. The service rep said it was the first bad alternator they had seen on the MP5. They put me in a free rental and sent me on my way.

That was August 2nd. I called them on the 4th since I hadn't heard from them and found out that the alternator was on national backorder until August 23rd. Guess that there must be a lot of bad alternators out there. I called Mazda's Customer Care and they confirmed the 23rd after doing some research. They did send me $200 in gift certificates that are valid at the Dealer for services for my trouble.

We're now on August 25th, the alternator came into port on Monday and the Dealer claims to get it b/t Friday and Monday. Finally I'll have my ride back!!! I'll be putting in a new Optima Yellow Top right away.

So that is my MP5 alternator saga, just wanted to share.

univ715

Now August 31st, still no part.

Matty Mooling

the dealer's got you by the nuts. good luck

Bassbomber2002

thats weird. I have new headlights (HID type) and HID type turn signals.... a 1 farad cap... a 1400 watt amp, 2 neons, a satellite radio, kenwood head unit, 6 6x9's and the 2 subs all running on my stock battery and stock alternator. I have a 2000 protege LX. I have 4 guage wiring running all through the car. If i dont turn my car on for 2 days or so my battery will be dead and needs a jump but has plenty of time to recharge.

and i heard that it will not only take the cost of the new alternator and the install for that but i thought that the ECU would also need to be reprogrammed to handle the new power source with greater power production. atleast accordin to my dad and his mechanic friends.

How do you have your system wired? cause I get no head light dimming and I have ALOT of bass and suck a minimum of a Volt Per bass hit. I have all my auxilier units wired into my cap.

univ715

I finally got the car back yesterday 9/1!!!! But the dealer put a scratch on my rear bumper, so they have to fix that next week.

I am running 4 gauge also. My JL amps are probably drawing more current than your unnamed 1400w amp, i'm assuming that is the difference.

About the custom high output alternator, it also would have come with the voltage regulator needed to keep the ECU happy, or at least thats what the shop owner told me.

Bassbomber2002

Well my amp is a sound storm. not exactly most expensive amp but it sounds good. I wouldn't know about what all it has to be done but the guys at pep boys seemed to think that i'd have to pay for the part..... get it installed... then get it recalibrated with the ecu for increase voltage but i dunno. dont see y it wouldn't just work the same sorta like adding on a system.

fasta76

Have both of you guys had any problems with alt whine comming through the stereo? I just bought a $1200 pioneer deh-p860mp deck and went to install it and we got crazy engine noise????? We tried 3 decks all the same. Even tried my buddys who has the same deck that works great in his car.. And still noise.. Then tried a noise filter.. Still no help.

Any ideas??????

Tom

Bassbomber2002

usually when you get noises like that it means something is wired up wrong. speakers wired up reverse or power wires wired up wrong. Another cause could be how was it wired? Did you crimp each wire and tape them? Used wire nuts? or just twisted wires together? if 2 speakers touch you could have a cris-cross in signal which would cause noise in the spakers.