pr01

so i've been noticing like a clunking noise from the front driver side wheel, as i drive over slight bumps, i thought it may have been my suspension or struts i dunno a whole lot, so i brought to get it checked out at the Mazda dealer, the said that i just needed to replace the "front stabilizer link" it looks like a metal rod with a nut and bolt on each end, is anyone familiar with this and installing it? for them to put it on is 40 bill$ plus the cost of the part is $34, but i was just wondering if it's something that can easily be put on myself or a backyard mechanic for example?? thanks anyone

specs:
stock 2001 Mazda Pro ES 2.0L

javanc

wow if thats all theyll charge you its not all that bad. the link isnt all that hard to change but it is kinda tight and you have to take the tire off and get it all loose. like i said not hard but if you just wanna save 40 bucks it will cost you about an hour.

Da P-Funk!

The cheap metal Mazda used on the bolts/nuts ensures that it is rusted TIGHT. It is an allen key and nut. I had to cut off the nuts (~30 minutes for each one) and then replace them.

I did soak them thoroughly with break-free[tm] overnight to help before i started. I still had to cut them off.

If you don't have that patience or skill - let Mazda do it (it is their crap-design anyway )

BUT - I would coat them with grease after you pull the wheel next time - to keep them removable for the struts or Eibach springs...

javanc

its not a crappy design. you just used the wrong tools. suspension parts really need an impact. another way is to use a breaker bar and hit it with a rubber mallet. remember those parts are exposed to the elements 24/7. plus how the heck did you cut the nuts off without ruining the end likns? or did you have new endlinks too?

Da P-Funk!

Uh, no.

I used break-free to soak it. I used an impact to start the process - but in this case it is a ball with a threaded end. That is why it has an allen key hole. Torque was not the problem. I pounded a one size larger (SAE in this case the next size metric was too big) allen key in the stripped hole to try to get more purchase. Because it is a greased ball in a plastic cup - it just spins. No place to get purchase with a channel lock until you twist the cup/endlink off.

I then got out the the cutting tool ( a tip from this forum - and i was glad to have it!! ) .

Understand that corrosion makes the metal stick together and softer at the same time! A winning combination! An allen head bolt is notoroius for stripping anyway...

I knew i needed new end links and bolts because they are a crappy design and would not come off easy. First attempts only loosened it up and it would not budge (tighten or loosen). The other suspension bolts are corrosion-free. They are a 'good' design.

For a part that is expected to be removed at least twice in the life of the vehicle - they should have been maintenance-friendly. Mazda? I am looking at YOU.

You didn't ask - but my credentials are: 16+ years as a 7-Level aviation mechanic (on F-15s, FB-111s, KC-135s, F-4s, and presently, F-16s). I have been a shade tree mechanic for 25+ years.

I currently design the Joint Strike Fighter (F-35) to be maintainable for jet mechs. I am *this* close to Masters degree in Engineering (gotta' finish that thesis! )

I 'think' i know a crappy design when i see one!

If i seem a little touchy - i am! You were not there! If there is a better way - i am all for learning it. However, your advice <above> doesn't help much in this case.

Other than that - i think the Mazda is quite well designed for maintenance - i love the easy snap-together interior and access to most maint items. I *enjoy* working on this car for the most part.

Compared to a 79 Monte Carlo where you had to remove the passenger wheel to access the spark plugs for a tune up... or the 94 GrandDamn where you had to unbolt the engine mounts and rotate the engine to do a tune up.... Shall i go on?

peace.