RipperSnapper

Alright, last week a buddy of mine and I lowered my P5 with Tein SS springs. Everthing is all fine an good but, I had hell of a time with the endlinks. Mostly the front. Even though the car is only a few years old, thanx to N.E. weather, the bolts were seized up pretty good. Heating those things up with a torch broke them loose but it was a bad idea. The plastic inside melted an I ended up just getting new endlinks just to be safe. Anyone have any other methods to remove the endlinks so next time I remove them I could avoid this problem. Lubrication just wasn't cutting it, and the last thing I wanna do is round the nuts off an have to cut them and get new ones again. Like I said , everything is ok now. this is just for future refrence

macdaddyslomo

use a GOOD 6 point socket, some PB blaster, and a cheater bar....it will work, trust me...I have worked on much rustier cars than a 2 year old P5

03ESPro

Or even better, some PB blaster and an impact wrench.

macdaddyslomo

true but try and swing a hammer underneath a car, unless you have a lift

03ESPro

I meant an air powered impact wrench. You know, like real mechanics use!

RipperSnapper

Thanx for the help guys. Yes, I have been using P.B. Blaster for years, Great product. One more question though. If you guys are using sockets, impact wrenches ect. ect. What about the required allen wrench needed for the center of the nut. I had to use an opened end wrench to use the allen and break it free. Otherwise the nut just spins and you go nowhere. I just don't see how ya gonna use a socket an an allen wrench at the same time. LOL. Maybe I'm just a retard.

macdaddyslomo

oh yes, you are correct...use a six point box wrench and a cheater bar on that...should still work

chrisf

An impact wrench may still break it loose without the allen wrench holding it in. Worth a try if you know somebody who has one.

RipperSnapper

Looks like I have a new tool to buy. Thanx man, I appriciate it. Maybe next time I gotta do those end links (perhaps when I get a better swaybar) things will work out a little smoother.

Jinker

Those end links are a pain in the butt. I replaced my rear at 50,000kms, then did my fronts a few months ago at around 85. Now my rears sounds like they're ready for replacement again (94,000kms). Has something to do with the poly insert used not liking the cold Canuck winters up here.

Anyway, long story short, I've never gotten one of those darn links off in one peice. I've ended up having to cut all four with a grinder.

Good luck, I'm going to start liberally using anti-seize on them and coating them with tremclad or some other rust inhibitor.

-Greg

macdaddyslomo

grinder ?? use a reciprocating saw with a good blade...cut'em like butter...had to do that on my rusty MX-6 ones