larger rotors, enormously larger calipers all around. and yes, i sell it at protege garage :
http://mazda3online.web.aplus.net/pr...roducts_id=451
pricey, but zomg so worth it

 

Wait .. those are OEM MSP brakes?!?!

 

And you say they just bolt up? But would they still work with OEM 16" rims too. Much cheaper upgrade than the big boy brake upgrades.

 

Shows how much I know about the MSP >_<

 

Pulled my lower back muscles all out of whack, while re-installing the stock intake tubing.
Did a lot of reading and figured that it really was not worth removing the tubing in the first lace, without adding a cold air induction tube.
But while I had everything apart, I sealed up a few of the air resonator chambers and plugged all the bottom holes. We'll see how that works. My wife is glad that the car "doesn't sound like there's something wrong with it." {intake growl}

 

Yeah they fit with stock wheels. Rotor size is barely larger at all, but a little bit more diameter + a little bit larger pads = a noticeably different braking feel.

Rob, I think it's cute how you talk about the turbo like it's just one simple MSP thing you don't have :P After all it is the defining feature of the MSP .. and is way more complicated than being just one item on a list :P

Don't forget the silver-that-turns-to-crap leather steering wheel, the seat covers, etc.. that stuff I'm not at all interested in getting though..

but some MP3 seat covers.. and door panel trim cloth.. where do I sign up??

 

yeah, i was talking about the important parts. the wheel isnt something on my list of things i want, or the jazzy 1980s seats. and the turbo is the last thing i dont have

 

^ok, thanks, bye!

 

I'm thinkin about starting a 'kansei part-out' thread.. I'm bummed about the rust on my rear fenders, and the fact that it'll cost a LOT of money to fix. I think I might just have it ghetto rigged like mazda did under warranty (sand down bubbled paint, respray) and trade it on on something else.

I think you all know how much I love my car and how hard of a decision this is.. but I feel like with the rust it's just a lost cause. Where my front passenger door is rusting (yeah.. unaffected by undercoating, so thanks mazda for a bad design and poor quality metal) I'd just have to replace the whole door

- cut out rear fenders, weld in new metal (fenders rolled of course), repaint rear fenders, rear door skins, rear bumper, and hatch
- replace passenger side front door, paint
- fix rusting under the hood, fix shoddy body work under the hood (obviously won't go back to the same shop)
- completely sand off ALL underbody rust (like really sand it all off), re-undercoat

.. I'm expecting 2-3k dollars for that work, if not more.

 

how about..... move south?

 

move here, your car will unrust

 

Since the last four posts suck, I'll change the mood: Me and Rob put RB rear springs on my car! Woohoo! Feels tighter back there now, and the drop is identical, although I hope they settle a bit more. I'll take some time to evaluate the handling...

 

So what do you got going on in the front then? Tein S-Techs is it?

 

Josh, what are you running now? RB rear and S-Tech front? What are the rates on those respectively?

EDIT: And they're the true racing beats, not the mazdaspeed springs right?

I just checked, S-Tech rates are 175# linear, and the RBs SHOULD be linear...but I can't find any spring rate numbers on them

 

HTech (162lb/in) front, RB rear (111-190lb/in). I got the mixed-bag springs, yo!