Ciemny

I had the EGR valve replaced, the mech told me it was with the modification, the part number for it was BP6F-20-300, differs from the part # of what you stated, @so far' the car works fine, will see . He gave me the old part back, rust is thick as pie crust. If its the non modefied EGR than I got screwed and might try to spray the thing with something to prevent rust build up in the future.

I think the part you qoted me was for the 2.0L? I just found this on some website posting. The 1.6 seems to have a diff part number. Unless they can be interchanged.

martinmzfan1

Man, I've got this similar problem too in my '01 2.0 ES! No DTCs thrown or CEL. Just repaired my ATX and rescanned for codes. While driving and coming to a stop, the idle speed drops to about 500-600 RPM, but does not stall. This happens only intermittantly -- usually when cold. Could it be the dreaded EGR valve? I also just replaced the battery. Is the EGR valve "easy" to replace?

Omron

I know when I changed my battery for the first time, it had enough juice to start but I got the sputtering you spoke of until i actually gave it the 20 minutes of idle / driving charge time.

after it fully charged (motomaster eliminator battery) it was all good,

look into the battery if a cell or 2 is gone. Charging system is important.

good luck

distance2

is there a recal on EGR for the 01. I am not having this problem with 170000kms in Ottawa canada but.......

01 1.6L SE

Ciemny

Im in Ottawa too, didn't see anything about a recall, but know that the origional EGR valves that fail get replaced with some updated kind.

martinmzfan1

Is there a SSP (Special Service Program) for the EGR problem yet? Mazda quite rarely issues these out of warranty.

My battery was tested at 172 CCA and failed to hold amperage. It was getting harder to start in the morning. The new battery solved that problem easily.

The rolling/rough idle has been present for weeks before and still immediately after the battery change-out and ATX repair. Correct me, but I believe the old EGR design -- and its related failure -- are in our vehicles (2001). I'm going to pull it off and inspect on Friday before ordering the expensive part ($120).

distance2

Co-worker had his replaced on 2000 1.6 L pro under waranty after sputtering

martinmzfan1

Did the EGR replacement successfully solve the rough idling/sputtering on his car?

Ciemny

There is a post I think on Page 2 of this thread with the part number for the 2001 EGR valve ( the new updated kind). Im keeping the old one and going to clean it and lube it up as a backup replacement. When mine fucked up and I brought it to the dealer I was charged 507$ cad after taxes to get it replaced. This was 280$ for the part, then labour and taxes. If I knew it was the EGR i would have done it myself but the car barley drove.

martinmzfan1

I've spent about an hour tonight trying to remove the EGR valve. It's in an extremely tight area behind the exhaust manifold. I've removed the air intake snorkel, but it's downright very tough to get at the two 12mm bolts. Any ideas??

distance2

Fixed his 2000 Pro Very happy with his car

tickaz

Sorry for the HIJACK but can any body here help me in identifying this part name and number, it form my 2002 Premacy Sport
https://www.mazda3club.com/attachmen...achmentid=6100

martinmzfan1

Here was my problem:

1) Rough standstill idle -- needle hovered up/down about 50 RPM
2) Occasionally wanted to stall after a warm start -- RPM dipped to 500
3) Poor fuel economy -- about low 20's
4) No DTCs -- wheww!
5) Engine vibrates/shakes

I performed the following operations:

1) Changed air-filter (ash inside from recent fires)

2) Changed spark plugs w/NGK V-power; old ones were Bosch Pt and were slightly burned at the tips and overheated at the plug boot part (orange ring).

3) Removed and re-installed the EGR valve assembly:

This was a serious PAIN to perform! From under the jacked car (on stands), I used three drivers: 3/8" 90 deg swivle socket wrench, 1/4" flex "T" 90 deg socket wrench and 12mm offset boxed hand wrench. It wasn't on too tight. Found it was definately full of carbon but operating within specs. Used Liquidwrench for the 4 screws. I checked resistance and plunger operation -- all okay. I used SeaFoam and blasted that puppy. Everything was cleaned. Some carbon remained on plunger but freely operated. I pre-installed the bolts & gasket on the assembly and placed blue painters tape over the bolts to hold 'em while squeezing everything back on the manifold.

4) Removed and cleaned IAC solenoid assembly plunger and mounting area on IAC core. Used T-25 tamper-proof screw bit from Craftsman. Piece of cake to do -- used Liquidwrench on the two screws to make life easier. Lots o' carbon on solenoid plunger and mounting area.

5) Cleaned TB assembly by spraying Seafoam and Gumout Carb cleaner on butterfly valve and inside throat.

6) inspected many other parts and found no faults (e.g., PCV, purge control, PS pump, plug wires, vac leaks... I was up until 1:30AM one night! Reset PCM.

Startup and Roadtest: Very close to being a new engine! The motor vibrates some -- good for 67K miles -- but is noticeably smoother. RPM is very stable and so far NO unexpected dips. Performance is very good overall.

distance2

good info. Glad it all worked out!

wizteknet

If you get a Check Engine light could be a bad MAF that was recalled on 99 thru whatever, but taking the EGR apart & cleaning it & the fuel & air/vacume lines can probably solve it.