Protege sputtering spontaniously
February-14th-2006, 02:34 PM
#17
Moderator/ Pocket Tuner
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Tampa,Fl
Posts: 4,150
no biggie...just model info...doesntfix his problem...I really think alternator/voltage regulator is the way to go though...my car did EXACTLY what his was doing...took forever to diagnose, as the alt would still pass a bench test with a faulty voltage regulator, I kept thinking it was a vacuum leak....
if you go this route DON'T buy used...buy a new OEM alternator
I just happened to find a good company local that supplied me with a new Mitsubishi alternator(mazda uses Mitsubishi alternators)...car is good as new now !!
if you go this route DON'T buy used...buy a new OEM alternator
I just happened to find a good company local that supplied me with a new Mitsubishi alternator(mazda uses Mitsubishi alternators)...car is good as new now !!
February-15th-2006, 12:47 PM
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 65
Guys,
The car now is doing this ALL the time now. Still when in Park idling or in Drive but fully stopped. Every frigin time the car gets thrown around, RPM needle bounces up and down, sounds like its choking and its gona die, all the lights dim on the dash and radio. I even have to shift into Park at traffic lights just so it won't be as bad. Plus now it takes longer to start the car. Still fine while driving. But i still hear those muffled popping noises comming from inside the intake manifold, still no check engine light.
Dunno if the weather has something to do with it - here it is +4C at the moment, mild and humid. Later the temp is supposed to drop bellow freezing......if its electrical would the moisture make this problem worse?
macdaddyslomo: Are these the same symptoms you got?
Ciemny
The car now is doing this ALL the time now. Still when in Park idling or in Drive but fully stopped. Every frigin time the car gets thrown around, RPM needle bounces up and down, sounds like its choking and its gona die, all the lights dim on the dash and radio. I even have to shift into Park at traffic lights just so it won't be as bad. Plus now it takes longer to start the car. Still fine while driving. But i still hear those muffled popping noises comming from inside the intake manifold, still no check engine light.
Dunno if the weather has something to do with it - here it is +4C at the moment, mild and humid. Later the temp is supposed to drop bellow freezing......if its electrical would the moisture make this problem worse?
macdaddyslomo: Are these the same symptoms you got?
Ciemny
February-15th-2006, 03:23 PM
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 65
I just might do that, prolly going to a friend to have the plugs replaced and he will check it out, than to a shop, prolly dealer one, to get that part replaced. Could it be any of the sensors malfunctioning as well or most likley the alternator? Funny how this problem got progressivley worse over just a week.
Funny though how after I actually get the engine started (after 5 seconds) that it takes maybe 5 mins for the issue to arise as the engine warms up things go to **** and 5 mins in the engine buckles and pops and does all the other wonderful stuff i listed. But why would it do this only in Idle and Drive (stopped) is it because the voltage load is higher when driving so the symptoms don't appear?
Ciemny
Funny though how after I actually get the engine started (after 5 seconds) that it takes maybe 5 mins for the issue to arise as the engine warms up things go to **** and 5 mins in the engine buckles and pops and does all the other wonderful stuff i listed. But why would it do this only in Idle and Drive (stopped) is it because the voltage load is higher when driving so the symptoms don't appear?
Ciemny
Last edited by Ciemny; February-15th-2006 at 03:44 PM.
February-15th-2006, 08:33 PM
#24
The man behind the mask
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 11,572
if voltage drops it'll throw a CEL. your alternator powers everything electrical in the car and recharges the battery while doing this....when you get up on the rpms it may work a little better but at idle it doesn't have the speed to keep everything powered...thats why it stumbles.
February-16th-2006, 12:06 PM
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 65
Well went to the dealer.........mech said it was the EGR valve that has seized ( I had it cleaned in Sept 2005), So im gettting a new one and I told him I want the trouble code printouts and the old EGR. I told him to check the alternator too.....so I will see waht happens now.
February-16th-2006, 05:13 PM
#28
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 65
I hope the guy gives me the comp printout with all the troubles codes. I told him to drive the damn thing for a while to see if it happens again with the new EGR. IT was getting to the point where it was interfeering with normal driving before I brought it in, you could hear that the engine had issues while picking up speed with the popping noises. If this fails than I got screwed out of some serious $$$. Im still betting alternator or 02 sensor, but try telling that to the mech who thinks he knows better, also told him to check for vaccum leaks.
Last edited by Ciemny; February-16th-2006 at 05:17 PM.
February-16th-2006, 09:54 PM
#29
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 100
If you have a P0300 or a P0401 be sure thay use the modified valve in this M-tip.
ROUGH IDLE - DTC P0300, EGR VALVE STICKING OPEN
Applicable Models
2001 - Protege VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
2002 - Protege VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
2003 - Protege VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
Symptoms
020 ENGINE HARD START
030 ROUGH IDLE
050 ENG. STALLS DRVING-WILL RESTART
620 DOES NOT TURN OFF/WARNING LIGHT
MTOL - 4166 Dealer Repair Information
Symptoms and Conditions
Some customers may experience an intermittent or constant rough idle
with MIL illumination and DTC P0300 and/or P0401 being stored in memory.
This condition may be the result of rust accumulation on the EGR valve
shaft causing the valve stick open. A shield has been added to the
valve's body to prevent reoccurrence of this condition.
Repair Procedure
When you encounter a vehicle with this concern inspect the EGR valve
for this condition and if necessary replace the valve with the improved
part.
EGR VALVE Part No. FSY1-20-300-9U
Gasket Part No. JE27-20-305A
© 2005 Mazda North American Operations, U.S.A.
ROUGH IDLE - DTC P0300, EGR VALVE STICKING OPEN
Applicable Models
2001 - Protege VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
2002 - Protege VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
2003 - Protege VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
Symptoms
020 ENGINE HARD START
030 ROUGH IDLE
050 ENG. STALLS DRVING-WILL RESTART
620 DOES NOT TURN OFF/WARNING LIGHT
MTOL - 4166 Dealer Repair Information
Symptoms and Conditions
Some customers may experience an intermittent or constant rough idle
with MIL illumination and DTC P0300 and/or P0401 being stored in memory.
This condition may be the result of rust accumulation on the EGR valve
shaft causing the valve stick open. A shield has been added to the
valve's body to prevent reoccurrence of this condition.
Repair Procedure
When you encounter a vehicle with this concern inspect the EGR valve
for this condition and if necessary replace the valve with the improved
part.
EGR VALVE Part No. FSY1-20-300-9U
Gasket Part No. JE27-20-305A
© 2005 Mazda North American Operations, U.S.A.