Roddimus Prime

Nitrous is about $32 a bottle here in Bham....on my SHO i used to run a 100hp shot at the drag strip and with a bottle warmer to keep pressure up that one bottle would last me 2.5 weeks. or so. I went to the drag strip every weekend and made 10-15 passes a night.

On a 30hp shot the bottle will last MUCH longer. It's not as expensive as you might think.

p.s. in the group buys section there is a vendor selling nitrous equipment and he has very nice name brand kits starting at $300. Nitrous is cheap. It's older and proven technology.

vielster

I would be interested to see how much difference a header makes with all of the other components installed. I've seen dyno's for the AWR header before and it makes a good amount of torque. (10lb/ft and like 8hp w/out other upgrades)

You're right though roddimus, you're talking about probably $1k from Corksport for 17hp and 16lb/ft for close to $1k. I am though, pretty impressed with the gains from the cam. ~8hp and 10lb/ft of torque for $200 is an ok price for performance ($25/hp $20/ftlb). The place you run into the overpricing is always the intake ($150 for 2hp).

I'd be interested to see a similar chart for an ebay intake, j-spec cam, and a RB or Magnaflow cat back. If those give the same total output, you're talking ~$550 giving you about $30/hp which is pretty darn good. Throw an OBX header on with all those upgrades and you're up better than 25hp and 25lbft for well under a G.

CorkSport.com

It was from a 99 1.8L

kargoboy

Chris/CorkSport:

Thanks for providing the dyno sheets. It's nice to see something on paper (well, on screen)
for a change.

HorsepowerFreaks

A bone stock 1.8L (which should net a little lower gain than the 2.0L) gained 7whp, huh?

There's your dyno sheet gcs118.... I'd have to say that carries more validity than second hand message board information.

Thanks Cork Sport.



But back on topic... There is not much in the means of ECU upgrades for the Protege. They're generally not worth the money on any vehicle unless it has fuel/timing map issue from the factory (like the Mazdaspeed Protege) or if the car has substantial upgrades and needs to be tuned.

Roddimus Prime

horsepowerfreak....the 1.8L makes identical power to the 2.0L motor....the 2.0L only make slightly more torque.

let's not be a jerk over something so stupid.

HorsepowerFreaks

It's only been my intention to post information here, I did not come to debate. Someone tried to "discredit" my information and information was posted to back what I said.

*did you all the posts in this thread?

Da P-Funk!

I think it is a well-presented counter arguement. I do appreciate the dyno. It has changed my assumptions about them.

My summation?
1. Get the cheap intake (still easiest to install/within the ability of most everyone or their brother)

2. Get the header, second easiest and required (IMHO) for ...
3. Get the intake and exhaust cams installed by experienced shadetree or get it professionally installed.
4. If you can't get a MP3 ECU to trade... Then the Haltech management.
5. Improved exhaust system (header back).

Most important! have a PLAN for the car! Before you just go slapping parts on - know how much the total budget is.

Just my $.02 worth! :grin:

Roddimus Prime

Best post ever!!!

HorsepowerFreaks

Hey P-Funk... You forgot turbocharging! ;-P

*good advice by the way.

Da P-Funk!

No, i didn't forget it (thanks for the props muh respected peeps! ) but that would be a different plan - and that is exactly what i meant - if you PLAN to turbo - don't buy cams and a NA header! You will just be losing money in the 'FS Section'...

i once planned to go turbo - but circumstances have changed - i won't have the money/commitment to sink in the car - so a header and maybe some cams are in the plan (eventually...).