3rd Gen Protege/MazdaSpeed/P5/MP3 General/Maintenance Discussion for 1999-2003.5 Models Only (BJ Chassis)

Negotiation Tips to Buying Protege5 HELP!

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Old November-24th-2001, 06:18 AM
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Angry Negotiation Tips to Buying Protege5 HELP!

I want to purchase the Mazda Protege5 probably this weekend or the next.

I found an newspaper ad that said they offer it for $14,988.

MSRP - $16895
College Grad +$ 400
Dealer Disc +$ 1507
-------------
$14,988

This is a good price since invoice is $15,271 (supposedly)

Now, I have some questions.
-First of all, I am a junior in college, so I don't quality for the college grad discount. However, would they still give it to me if I talk to the dealership? Do I need to provide proof?

-I read http://www.carbuyingtips.com , but I don't feel ready for the Mazda dealer. Are there any experiences I should be aware about?

-How much did you guys get your Mazda Protege5s for and what's the tip?
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Old November-24th-2001, 08:37 AM
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Unless that ad is some sort of scam or typo. Not much negotiation needed.

Watch out for add ons. Extended warranty, underbody coating, paint protection, ect. Some dealers like to jack you with those.

Know what you want and what you're willing to pay for it. I came in with a spreadsheet filled with invoice costs on base and the options I wanted. $200-$500 over dealer invoice is a pretty good deal. Take a look at www.edmunds.com and www.kbb.com, see if there are additional incentives and take those into factor.

Keep in mind that a high demand car is harder to negotiate for. Two Protege5's were sold before mine while I was looking on my day of purchase. Because those were easy sales, it made mine difficult to dicker down.

It sounds like you already know most of what I've mentioned. Good luck.
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Old November-24th-2001, 01:33 PM
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Thanks a lot! Wish me luck with the Blue Protege5
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Old November-25th-2001, 03:10 AM
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is this from a dealer in San Jose?

Hi saw that ad too. I bought my pro last weekend. Stay away from that dealer if it is the one near the mall in San Jo. Those guys are shiesty. They will tell you that the deal is on one or two cars. They are usually the unpopular colors. let me know if you do get the deal from them. I know they are hurting for money. Also make sure you examine the car throughly. I noticed that dealer had a lot of cars with Scratches and dents. Good luck
 
Old November-25th-2001, 04:45 AM
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Hey sup Hi5, the one on Stevenscreek near the Valley Fair mall pissed me off when I called them... they told me that the 14988 offer was only for the Mazda Protege5 2001. I told them there's no such thing and he got all pissed. He said the lines

"I've been working here 7 months, do you think I don't know what I'm talking about?"

Anyways, I'm thinking of going to the one Capitol Free Way (Oak Tree Mazda) and getting it.

How much did you get yours for?
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Old November-25th-2001, 05:15 AM
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I see you mentioned about the grad rebate.

Make sure he knows that you know that it should not be reflected in the bargaining process as the rebate does not come out of their pocket.
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Old November-25th-2001, 12:15 PM
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They both are bad same owner Kevin Del Grande

hahah! Wow I cannot believe you are talking about the same place I have had problems with over the past couple months. Almaden Mazda and Oaktree Mazda are under the same control of the owner Kevin Del Grande. Those sales people are shiesty but all car dealers are anyways. Submit a quote on carpoint and you will get offers for 500 over invoice. Call Redwood city mazda or one in that area, and they will quote you 300 over invoice. When I told the Mazda Guy at oaktree, about how much other dealers offered me, after calling about the same ad you saw, he laughed in my face and said he did not want to be the lowest offer. Those guys really suck, they are so bad they have a special customer improvement training class the sales man are attending. I ended up getting mine at sunnyvale mazda. I ended paying about 500 over invoice but at least i did not give that kevin del grande any of my money.


BTW Oaktree was the same dealer that tried to tell me that the silver color would sell for over MSRP and pushed the Black mica on me.


Hope to see you on the road

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Old November-25th-2001, 12:56 PM
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Dang.. $300 over invoice wuz the best you got huh?
That would mean

invoice $15274
+ $ 300
+ $ 1600 (ABS Brake Option and Automatic Option)
------------------------
$17174
+ 0.8% tax
+ 480 (destination charge)
------------------------
$19000... dang.. that's a lot of money.

I hope my dad qualifies for the 0.0% APR for 48 months, then I can pay up 400/month.
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Old November-25th-2001, 11:38 PM
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deal

Hi kenki, yeah I ended up getting it for something like 19.5K out the door. They tack on additional BS such as docs fees and such. At the time I didn't really care cause I hated that dealer on Stevens Creek. You dad should qualify for the credit. It is not that difficult.
 
Old November-26th-2001, 05:55 PM
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A hint for you: Do all your bargaining over the phone (or email for that matter). Call the dealership, ask to speak to a salesman, and tell him you are ready to buy the car as soon as you find the best price. Be firm but polite, and remember that you are in charge of this negotiation. You need to be sure to ask for the total price of the car, including ttl and any fees. This will keep them from surprising you with charges when you arrive. After you have settled on a price, tell him when you will be coming to sign all the paperwork (after a full inspection of the car), and be sure to let him know that if the numbers change (or there is something wrong with the car) you will walk. Be prepared to walk if ANYTHING differs from what you discussed over the phone.

Do you have a trade in? If so, don't even mention it until AFTER a price is set for the new car. If they ask about a trade during negotiations, let him know that you are currently discussing the price of the new car not a trade in you may or may not have. It is essentially two separate transactions. Same rule applies to financing: Set the price for the car first.

A word of caution: many salespeople HATE dealing like this, because it tips the scales in your favor. They will try to get your into the dealership to settle the price. Kindly let him know that you know exactly what you want and are simply shopping for the best price, therefore there is no reason to come in until a price is agreed upon.

Remember, while you're not trying to make an enemy for life, you are not trying to make friends either. Do not feel the need to be all chummy with the salesperson. If he seems a little frustrated when he hands you the keys, you did your job right.

FWIW, I paid $16,400+ttl (US dollars) for my blue P5 w/auto. This was during a period when people were happily paying MSRP and above for the P5. Your deal seems to be a little low. The special price may only apply to a couple of cars in their inventory, and those cars are probably high-mileage test drive cars (or have some sort of damage). Be careful.
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Old November-27th-2001, 03:25 AM
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Originally posted by exmiataman
FWIW, I paid $16,400+ttl (US dollars) for my blue P5 w/auto. This was during a period when people were happily paying MSRP and above for the P5.
Damn, any other options? I've got auto, ABS & side air bags, and moonroof. I was pretty happy with 18,300.
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Old November-27th-2001, 09:21 AM
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Originally posted by GNO


Damn, any other options? I've got auto, ABS & side air bags, and moonroof. I was pretty happy with 18,300.
Nope, just auto. Did I get a bad deal? I also got very close to the retail value for my trade.
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Old November-27th-2001, 02:23 PM
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New car buying

Another good site to check out is http://www.carsdirect.com

They will give you MSRP and invoice or the car with selected options not of just the car itself.

You should definetly be able to work the dealers. I was able to get my black P5 with the following options:

5-speed (not really an option)
Moonroof
floor mats
polished rims
ABS and side airbags

I paid 18,200 out the door (includes ttl and no trade-in).

Good luck.

Sean
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Old November-27th-2001, 02:40 PM
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Originally posted by exmiataman


Nope, just auto. Did I get a bad deal? I also got very close to the retail value for my trade.
Hell no, that's an awesome price. I've got $1500 more in options, but I paid $1900 more than you. You got about $70 under invoice.

Speaking of which, it's not unheard of to deal below invoice without taking into account incentives and rebates. Oftentimes dealer hold back is overlooked in negotiations. Dealers pay invoice minus hold back. In a nutshell, hold back is basically a reimbursment from the manufacturer to the dealer for the cost of keeping an individual vehicle on the lot.
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Old November-27th-2001, 03:04 PM
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Originally posted by GNO


Hell no, that's an awesome price. I've got $1500 more in options, but I paid $1900 more than you. You got about $70 under invoice.

Speaking of which, it's not unheard of to deal below invoice without taking into account incentives and rebates. Oftentimes dealer hold back is overlooked in negotiations. Dealers pay invoice minus hold back. In a nutshell, hold back is basically a reimbursment from the manufacturer to the dealer for the cost of keeping an individual vehicle on the lot.
This is a good point, although I'm not positive there is holdback on every (I could be wrong, wouldn't be the first time). I do know that dealer cost and invoice are two totally different things, although the dealership would lead you to believe they are giving the car away at the invoice price. I believe Edmunds will give you true dealer cost.

To add to this converstaion, the last time I was at the dealer for service they had 20+ P5s on the lot. I would assume this is the case at many dealers Between a high inventory and a slumping U.S. economy, I'd be fairly unwilling to pay a dime over invoice.

Changing the subject, what kind of doc fee did everyone pay? Aware of the fact that this is usually pure dealer profit, I tried to get them to remove it (mine was $100 IIRC). They wouldn't budge; it was even preprinted on the sales order. I made him pay for it on my trade in, though, so I guess it evened out
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