intake on ebay
November-9th-2001, 08:54 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Newfoundland, Canada
Posts: 219
intake on ebay
I'm short on funds but want to get a new intake
Aem and injen seem expensive (well over $300 Can)
what about this on ebay?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cg...item=597516039
its located in Canada ..I'm looking for something that will give me a nicer sound and looks mostly..anyone?
Aem and injen seem expensive (well over $300 Can)
what about this on ebay?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cg...item=597516039
its located in Canada ..I'm looking for something that will give me a nicer sound and looks mostly..anyone?
November-18th-2001, 10:41 PM
#3
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There is no reply, since there is nothing to say. AEM and injen is all there is. If you hafe a problem with the price, then do your own homebuilt. Get some hose and buy a K&N filter.
Otherwise what are we supposed to say??
Otherwise what are we supposed to say??
November-18th-2001, 11:06 PM
#4
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Location: Newfoundland, Canada
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well thats not all true MHP also makes one buts more expensive again...I was just wondering if this was worth buying..your opinion is no I assume..just wanted a bit more input..
November-19th-2001, 06:26 AM
#5
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Originally posted by newfiep5
well thats not all true MHP also makes one buts more expensive again...I was just wondering if this was worth buying..your opinion is no I assume..just wanted a bit more input..
well thats not all true MHP also makes one buts more expensive again...I was just wondering if this was worth buying..your opinion is no I assume..just wanted a bit more input..
November-19th-2001, 09:25 AM
#6
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Location: Newfoundland, Canada
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I dont think AEM is coming out with one...from what i've read on other boards the AEM short ram actually produces more horspower then the Injen CAI...just because it says cold air doesnt mean it is really that much colder...
either way i've been told the AEM is the way to go...
either way i've been told the AEM is the way to go...
November-19th-2001, 03:04 PM
#7
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Toronto
Posts: 401
Homemade intake can be made with absolutely same results as AEM for $50-all what's needed is U shaped 2.5 " madrel bend, ceramic paint and hose clamps with universal filter.
Charging $200 is a real rip off, but that's the world we live in-we pay for overhead.
After all, car modyfying is about two things-you either got the $$ and don't care about the price or you have enough imagination to build stuff yourself.
personally I wouldn't buy ractive stuff except exhaust.
That heatshield filter just doesn't make any sense to me-it will still suck in hot air, because it is in hot environment and it doesn't matter whether filter is heated up by underhood heat or hot air it sucks through.
Alex
Charging $200 is a real rip off, but that's the world we live in-we pay for overhead.
After all, car modyfying is about two things-you either got the $$ and don't care about the price or you have enough imagination to build stuff yourself.
personally I wouldn't buy ractive stuff except exhaust.
That heatshield filter just doesn't make any sense to me-it will still suck in hot air, because it is in hot environment and it doesn't matter whether filter is heated up by underhood heat or hot air it sucks through.
Alex
November-19th-2001, 09:54 PM
#8
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Location: so. cal.
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Oh yeah !
Go ahead and buy the AEM if you have $200 to flush down the toilet. AEM emailed me their dyno results and you gain a whole 2 hp. You youngsters have to get it through your head that looks do not always equal hp. You'd get the same increase from a K&N on the stock box ( which is cold air ) and then you could spend the money on a cam ( approx $165 + install for 10 - 12 hp ).
Flame on !!!
Go ahead and buy the AEM if you have $200 to flush down the toilet. AEM emailed me their dyno results and you gain a whole 2 hp. You youngsters have to get it through your head that looks do not always equal hp. You'd get the same increase from a K&N on the stock box ( which is cold air ) and then you could spend the money on a cam ( approx $165 + install for 10 - 12 hp ).
Flame on !!!
November-19th-2001, 10:20 PM
#9
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Originally posted by TheMAN
There's a reason why I haven't gotten an intake yet. The ugly stock **** with K&N works perfectly fine.
There's a reason why I haven't gotten an intake yet. The ugly stock **** with K&N works perfectly fine.
November-20th-2001, 12:22 AM
#10
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ram air effect?
Could it be possible that the Cold air intakes gain more hp's when the car is actually at speed? Durring a dyno run the car is just sitting there and the air is ambient. Durring actual driving, air is being forced through the engine compartment.
I've heard of motorcycles gaining upto 35 hp's at 75 mph with a ram air setup. Now I know cars are different, but for a "ram air" intake to work, it would have to be at speed, right?
Maybe this would need to be settled at a track or a drag strip. I just have the K&N filter in my car and it seemed to help (I usually throw all my money away on tires and suspension). Has anyone gone from a K&N in the stock box to one of the cone filters? If so, did you really notice a difference?
-Jason
I've heard of motorcycles gaining upto 35 hp's at 75 mph with a ram air setup. Now I know cars are different, but for a "ram air" intake to work, it would have to be at speed, right?
Maybe this would need to be settled at a track or a drag strip. I just have the K&N filter in my car and it seemed to help (I usually throw all my money away on tires and suspension). Has anyone gone from a K&N in the stock box to one of the cone filters? If so, did you really notice a difference?
-Jason
November-20th-2001, 10:25 AM
#11
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Re: ram air effect?
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Jas00x
[B]Could it be possible that the Cold air intakes gain more hp's when the car is actually at speed? Durring a dyno run the car is just sitting there and the air is ambient. Durring actual driving, air is being forced through the engine compartment.
I've heard of motorcycles gaining upto 35 hp's at 75 mph with a ram air setup. Now I know cars are different, but for a "ram air" intake to work, it would have to be at speed, right?
Sorry dude, wont work. first your airbox isn't set up to be pressurised, second, it pretty much has to be straight through to maintain the pressure, and third, most bikes will gain maybe 5 hp from the ram air effect, and this is only top end hp. Not to mention proving those power gains is next to impossible. Ever seen a dyno move at 75 mph?
No bike ever produced gained 35 hp from any mod save NOS
God I wish it did though.
For the record I drive a kaw 96ZX7r w/ram air
I am with the old guy, just make your own. I made a cold air induction unit for my 88 supra with some dryer hose, zip ties, 3 inch exhaust pipe and a generic filter. Cost me $50
Stocker
[B]Could it be possible that the Cold air intakes gain more hp's when the car is actually at speed? Durring a dyno run the car is just sitting there and the air is ambient. Durring actual driving, air is being forced through the engine compartment.
I've heard of motorcycles gaining upto 35 hp's at 75 mph with a ram air setup. Now I know cars are different, but for a "ram air" intake to work, it would have to be at speed, right?
Sorry dude, wont work. first your airbox isn't set up to be pressurised, second, it pretty much has to be straight through to maintain the pressure, and third, most bikes will gain maybe 5 hp from the ram air effect, and this is only top end hp. Not to mention proving those power gains is next to impossible. Ever seen a dyno move at 75 mph?
No bike ever produced gained 35 hp from any mod save NOS
God I wish it did though.For the record I drive a kaw 96ZX7r w/ram air
I am with the old guy, just make your own. I made a cold air induction unit for my 88 supra with some dryer hose, zip ties, 3 inch exhaust pipe and a generic filter. Cost me $50
Stocker
November-20th-2001, 12:19 PM
#12
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I agree with the old guy (although at 26, I "may" be an old guy on this board??)
Either get the K&N Replacement if you want to look stock or make your own. You can buy the Mandrel U-Bend from JCWhitney, a hacksaw, paint and PVC Couplings from Home depot, and have one made in less then a day.
This is actually a great learning experience for people just getting into car modding. Primarily because to get it right, you have to be patient. And it also shows how much money you can save by not buying the big-name crap. Yes, I said crap, because for anything over $100 those pipes are crap.
-Jason- You're in Raleigh? What kind of protege do you have? We just ordered a Midnight Blue Pro5 (5spd, Moonroof, ABS) and it should be in by Monday. You said that you mainly do suspension mods, do you ever autocross? There's a lot of autocrossing going on in this area. If you haven't done one, you should come do some next year, when it starts back up. Actually, I just happened to read another one of your post? Did you use to or do you still own a little white CRX?
Either get the K&N Replacement if you want to look stock or make your own. You can buy the Mandrel U-Bend from JCWhitney, a hacksaw, paint and PVC Couplings from Home depot, and have one made in less then a day.
This is actually a great learning experience for people just getting into car modding. Primarily because to get it right, you have to be patient. And it also shows how much money you can save by not buying the big-name crap. Yes, I said crap, because for anything over $100 those pipes are crap.
-Jason- You're in Raleigh? What kind of protege do you have? We just ordered a Midnight Blue Pro5 (5spd, Moonroof, ABS) and it should be in by Monday. You said that you mainly do suspension mods, do you ever autocross? There's a lot of autocrossing going on in this area. If you haven't done one, you should come do some next year, when it starts back up. Actually, I just happened to read another one of your post? Did you use to or do you still own a little white CRX?
November-20th-2001, 02:44 PM
#13
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moving dyno
Actually, I think Sport Compact Car did a test about various intake systems on a Honda Civic. They started out on a dyno, then realized that they needed to be testing the car at speed. So they used a G-Tech (or some device like that) to measure hp gains at speed. If I remember correctly, there was a difference between sitting still at the dyno and driving at speed.
I'm just saying that maybe you aren't exaxtly "throwing money away" by buying an AEM intake, or some other brand. There may be a little more power gained at the top end, and when you are really trying to squeeze power out of a car, even 2 or 3 hp counts.
Plus, the powder coated or anodized finish is much more attractive than PVC.
However, I think the filter is the first part of the problem on the intake end. There is probably a ton of power to be gained from the intake manifold, and throttle body.
I'm just saying that maybe you aren't exaxtly "throwing money away" by buying an AEM intake, or some other brand. There may be a little more power gained at the top end, and when you are really trying to squeeze power out of a car, even 2 or 3 hp counts.
Plus, the powder coated or anodized finish is much more attractive than PVC.
However, I think the filter is the first part of the problem on the intake end. There is probably a ton of power to be gained from the intake manifold, and throttle body.
November-20th-2001, 02:58 PM
#14
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oops, I wasn't implying to use PVC pipe. DON'T do that. PVC pipe will melt in an engine bay. I mentioned PVC Couplings which are actually rubber couplings that are used to join sections of PVC pipe, they can also be used to join steel pipes.
I have access to a G-Tech, you can borrow and it will take you about 10 minutes to realize that it's completely useless! There are too many additional variables for a G-Tech to me useful. As you mentioned before, a dragstrip would be the best place to do the tuning, and even that's not completely reliable.
I do agree that a properly designed cold air intake will increase hp at speed and not while sitting on a dyno. I don't agree that it's worth +$200 when you can reproduce it for under $50. Someone earlier said that the protege intake system wasn't designed to be pressurized. In fact, they are pressurized from the factory. The factory guys (most of them) route the intake to a entry point on the body that has a high pressure area while the car is moving. This high pressure area will force air into the airbox, regardless of whether the pipe is straight. The pipes on my turbo car have several bends in it, that doesn't mean that I lose my pressure around each bend, yes it may impede it, but it's not gone.
The way that I would go about doing this is to keep the factory box. Straighten and make the pipes larger between the box and the throttle body. Then do the same for the pipes feeding air to the box. Make them as straight and as large as possible. This would maximize airflow while keeping the air entering the engine as cool as possible.
I have access to a G-Tech, you can borrow and it will take you about 10 minutes to realize that it's completely useless! There are too many additional variables for a G-Tech to me useful. As you mentioned before, a dragstrip would be the best place to do the tuning, and even that's not completely reliable.
I do agree that a properly designed cold air intake will increase hp at speed and not while sitting on a dyno. I don't agree that it's worth +$200 when you can reproduce it for under $50. Someone earlier said that the protege intake system wasn't designed to be pressurized. In fact, they are pressurized from the factory. The factory guys (most of them) route the intake to a entry point on the body that has a high pressure area while the car is moving. This high pressure area will force air into the airbox, regardless of whether the pipe is straight. The pipes on my turbo car have several bends in it, that doesn't mean that I lose my pressure around each bend, yes it may impede it, but it's not gone.
The way that I would go about doing this is to keep the factory box. Straighten and make the pipes larger between the box and the throttle body. Then do the same for the pipes feeding air to the box. Make them as straight and as large as possible. This would maximize airflow while keeping the air entering the engine as cool as possible.
November-20th-2001, 03:40 PM
#15
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"[Someone earlier said that the protege intake system wasn't designed to be pressurized. In fact, they are pressurized from the factory. The factory guys (most of them) route the intake to a entry point on the body that has a high pressure area while the car is moving. This high pressure area will force air into the airbox, regardless of whether the pipe is straight. The pipes on my turbo car have several bends in it, that doesn't mean that I lose my pressure around each bend, yes it may impede it, but it's not gone. "
Ya that was me, I agree they are "pressurized", What I said was they aren't set up to be pressurized with regards to a ram air system. The inlet is so small that the actual mass of air available is restricted. I also said, you require a straight pipe to maintain pressure, the stock system has so many baffles and twists that I doubt the pressure at the TB even close to what it is at the inlet. If you look at the a motorcycle ram air system the intake openings are probably close to 10% of the frontal area of the bike and the intake pipe is straight to the airbox. IMO the best you can do is reduce the restriction the engine is experiencing by adding an intake that doesn't twist and bend and if possible, is exposed to the front of the car. The Protege's have really large openings in the front of the car, I bet you could make an intake that is better than the aftermarket ones I have seen that go into the fender. Hell leave the filter in the engine bay then run a pipe up to the filter so it doesn't intake hot engine bay air. Screw putting it in the fender. Seems like a lot of wasted effort.
Just my $0.02
Ya that was me, I agree they are "pressurized", What I said was they aren't set up to be pressurized with regards to a ram air system. The inlet is so small that the actual mass of air available is restricted. I also said, you require a straight pipe to maintain pressure, the stock system has so many baffles and twists that I doubt the pressure at the TB even close to what it is at the inlet. If you look at the a motorcycle ram air system the intake openings are probably close to 10% of the frontal area of the bike and the intake pipe is straight to the airbox. IMO the best you can do is reduce the restriction the engine is experiencing by adding an intake that doesn't twist and bend and if possible, is exposed to the front of the car. The Protege's have really large openings in the front of the car, I bet you could make an intake that is better than the aftermarket ones I have seen that go into the fender. Hell leave the filter in the engine bay then run a pipe up to the filter so it doesn't intake hot engine bay air. Screw putting it in the fender. Seems like a lot of wasted effort.
Just my $0.02