3rd Gen Protege/MazdaSpeed/P5/MP3 General/Maintenance Discussion for 1999-2003.5 Models Only (BJ Chassis)

how much can a MP5 handle

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Old May-11th-2004, 08:19 PM
  #31  
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Hi all ;-)
names ben. was going on?

other is more expensive and will control almost every facet of tuning and driveability including, traction control, on-board dyno, hot-swappable mapping, datalogging etc...
What does traction control have to do with engine management?

The design of a manifold has NOTHING to do with the smoothness of the power curve or AF ratios on a dyno
Air has a density. The hotter air is, the more space it needs for the same amount of air particles. Cooler air, more density, more air in intake manifold. Manifold bolts to head. The design of the manifold specifies the amount of flowing air it can handle without making turbulences on its way into the head. the size of the ports in the head and their shape and design define the maximum flow of air and filling characteristics(now with fuel from the injectors in the last part of the manifold) of the comb. cham.

The less turbulences makes less friction (heat)(xept the ones on the last leg the engine needs for filling every "nook and cranny" of the chamber on the pistons intake downstroke) the more dense, cool air/fuel ratio you get compressed into the chamber = the bigger the bang. Simple really. TURBO means presurized air. pressurising air makes it hot. depress. makes it cold. 4 psi more boost, 200 degrees hotter air in your intake! here comes the intercooler to prevent predetonation and bringing the air temp back down to safe levels. bigger intercooler, more cooling but bigger area- different denisity results in false reading of dialed-in-stock air mass sensor scrwing up the air/fuel ratio. GET A A/F METER, dial Air sensor right-BECAUSE IT WILL SAVE your ENGINEs life! So intake design is VERY IMPORTANT !!! AND a HIGH ART.

Note that most Air Mass sensors farther incl. THE INTAKE SYSTEM include an air temp. sensor. So sucking hot air through OPEN FILTER from the area of the exaust (VERY high temp!) brings the density of the air down. Result: great sound, bad MPG and crappy performance. Re-route the air intake to a sealed hood scoop or put a big flexible tube that fits over the open filter to clean air. not behind radiator! Some put a hole in the firewall (use rubber all around!) and suck it from the interior. Always clean, cool air there and a built in smoke vacuum cleaner ;-))) OLD 4x4 trick for desert runs

As boost builds it slowly starts richening up as an added precaution against detonation. The MPi dyno just dumps fuel....very bad
Very correct, very important thing here. you WILL kill your engine sonner than later using BAND AID APPROCHES (quote) to tuning like messing with the extra injector/(is a cold start injector and usually injects unprecise fuel squirts into the main part of the manifold. good thing when engine is cold, because combustion temp. is also kept low till engine is ready to run right warmed up conditions. you will always get non input controlled maps till engine is warm on fuel injected cars!!!).bad thing if engine is warm: If your ECU Fuel MAPS (the exel tables that tell the injectors when to open and for how long (they can only stay open for one revolution cylce lenght. This is the DUTY CYLCE of the INJECTORS keep this at 70%!!- Need more fuel, get bigger injetors) at specific RPM, air temp, air mass velocity, boost (amount of air),e.t.c.) run into the situation that the injectors cant supply enought fuel for the right fuel/air ratio OR the ECU runs into the "injector-over-rev" fuel cut: you will unload you PISTONS at 7,000 RPM in an already lean A/F condition = COUNT TO 2 AND YOU HAVE INSTaNT and FINAL PISTON MELTDOWN

You'll want small and well designed tubing to allow the gasses to exit with sufficient velocity.
most import thing here: ever wonder wy aftermarket headers have funky tubing all over the place? because they are one lenght of pipe bent smoothly till they meet into one pipe for again, LESS TURBULENCE

Stock headers have different length passages to the point where they go into one pipe. this results in different back pressures to different cylinder head exaust ports, causing different piston unloading velocitys (density again) which results in vibrations at over 5000 and wierd feeling of a rope around the neck up and over there. more air in is great. more air more equaly out brings the WAY BIGGEST BANG FOR THE BUCK with a free flow catalysator period. add cams for flavor ;-)
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Old May-11th-2004, 08:50 PM
  #32  
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Traction control has nothing to do with engine management, but it does have to do with drivability. You will see this if you reread what was said. The AEM tuner is a complete replacement for the stock ECU, meaning it must control everything that the stock did and more.
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Old May-11th-2004, 09:03 PM
  #33  
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I reformulated my question: Stock ecu contols traction? how this? I thought ABS does this and just kicks in the rev limiter when a no traction situation is read?
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Old May-11th-2004, 10:24 PM
  #34  
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Originally posted by chillin v8
Hi all ;-)
names ben. was going on?



What does traction control have to do with engine management?



Air has a density. The hotter air is, the more space it needs for the same amount of air particles. Cooler air, more density, more air in intake manifold. Manifold bolts to head. The design of the manifold specifies the amount of flowing air it can handle without making turbulences on its way into the head. the size of the ports in the head and their shape and design define the maximum flow of air and filling characteristics(now with fuel from the injectors in the last part of the manifold) of the comb. cham.

The less turbulences makes less friction (heat)(xept the ones on the last leg the engine needs for filling every "nook and cranny" of the chamber on the pistons intake downstroke) the more dense, cool air/fuel ratio you get compressed into the chamber = the bigger the bang. Simple really. TURBO means presurized air. pressurising air makes it hot. depress. makes it cold. 4 psi more boost, 200 degrees hotter air in your intake! here comes the intercooler to prevent predetonation and bringing the air temp back down to safe levels. bigger intercooler, more cooling but bigger area- different denisity results in false reading of dialed-in-stock air mass sensor scrwing up the air/fuel ratio. GET A A/F METER, dial Air sensor right-BECAUSE IT WILL SAVE your ENGINEs life! So intake design is VERY IMPORTANT !!! AND a HIGH ART.

Note that most Air Mass sensors farther incl. THE INTAKE SYSTEM include an air temp. sensor. So sucking hot air through OPEN FILTER from the area of the exaust (VERY high temp!) brings the density of the air down. Result: great sound, bad MPG and crappy performance. Re-route the air intake to a sealed hood scoop or put a big flexible tube that fits over the open filter to clean air. not behind radiator! Some put a hole in the firewall (use rubber all around!) and suck it from the interior. Always clean, cool air there and a built in smoke vacuum cleaner ;-))) OLD 4x4 trick for desert runs



Very correct, very important thing here. you WILL kill your engine sonner than later using BAND AID APPROCHES (quote) to tuning like messing with the extra injector/(is a cold start injector and usually injects unprecise fuel squirts into the main part of the manifold. good thing when engine is cold, because combustion temp. is also kept low till engine is ready to run right warmed up conditions. you will always get non input controlled maps till engine is warm on fuel injected cars!!!).bad thing if engine is warm: If your ECU Fuel MAPS (the exel tables that tell the injectors when to open and for how long (they can only stay open for one revolution cylce lenght. This is the DUTY CYLCE of the INJECTORS keep this at 70%!!- Need more fuel, get bigger injetors) at specific RPM, air temp, air mass velocity, boost (amount of air),e.t.c.) run into the situation that the injectors cant supply enought fuel for the right fuel/air ratio OR the ECU runs into the "injector-over-rev" fuel cut: you will unload you PISTONS at 7,000 RPM in an already lean A/F condition = COUNT TO 2 AND YOU HAVE INSTaNT and FINAL PISTON MELTDOWN



most import thing here: ever wonder wy aftermarket headers have funky tubing all over the place? because they are one lenght of pipe bent smoothly till they meet into one pipe for again, LESS TURBULENCE

Stock headers have different length passages to the point where they go into one pipe. this results in different back pressures to different cylinder head exaust ports, causing different piston unloading velocitys (density again) which results in vibrations at over 5000 and wierd feeling of a rope around the neck up and over there. more air in is great. more air more equaly out brings the WAY BIGGEST BANG FOR THE BUCK with a free flow catalysator period. add cams for flavor ;-)
good info.

Chas
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Old May-11th-2004, 10:34 PM
  #35  
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Originally posted by chillin v8
I reformulated my question: Stock ecu contols traction? how this? I thought ABS does this and just kicks in the rev limiter when a no traction situation is read?
ABS modulated traction control is NOT smart...Think of oit this way:

Your engine is making tons of torque...enough to spin the wheels over and "out of control". You want to apply the brakes to that? All that does is strain your axles. The problem is engine power. The AEM uses three features to control traction....timing retard, spark cut, and boost cut. Don't think that boost cut will cause more lag either. The AEM has two different modes of anti-lag, auto-x and rally-x.

Like I mentioned earlier the AEM is much deeper, wider and easier to use than I knew. The open house should've been required for anyone who ever wants to post "facts" about EMS. It was like going to school.
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Old May-11th-2004, 11:48 PM
  #36  
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I guess I was wrong about the traction control not being related to EM. I wasn't aware that it was tied into the engine, all of the TC I've seen simply uses brake modulation to correct wheelspin and such. You learn something new everyday!
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Old May-11th-2004, 11:50 PM
  #37  
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yeah, I thought the same thing but after having it explained it makes perfect sense....abs braking is the easier way of doing, but not the better way.
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