A grand to spend on Mods
#16
Originally posted by Paolo
I would say wheels, tires, and possibly lowering, but do not lower it for just looks, lower it to improve the handling, cus if you just lower it for looks, then your being a total idiot.
I would say wheels, tires, and possibly lowering, but do not lower it for just looks, lower it to improve the handling, cus if you just lower it for looks, then your being a total idiot.
#17
Looking for go
First off...NOS is a crutch...go motor or go home!
A K&N cone filter on an intake tube (3" dia x approx. 6") attached to MAP/MAF sensor so as to locate cone above hole in left front frame member (behind drivers side headlamp). Rotate coolant overflow bottle bracket 180-deg. and install (you will have some left over bolts...keep them for something else). Fabricate shield from plastic or sheet metal to keep hot air from rad away from cone filter. Cost --> $100 canadian for K&N filter and tube.
This is where I went in the wrong direction...
(I didn't) Spend the rest on rims and tires. You get show, but you get excellent go. Traction, Cornering and Braking(factory tires are hockey pucks!). Get 16" with Toyo Proxies or Yokohamas, don't go overboard!
Then when you get the next $1000, get exhaust! full-flowing, not just a header or catback or fart muffler (I went wrong here too!) My exhaust flows great from the firewall back that's it...I didn't know about the out-pipe from the cat!
This makes a good base for basically any other mods...cams, springs, brakes!
A K&N cone filter on an intake tube (3" dia x approx. 6") attached to MAP/MAF sensor so as to locate cone above hole in left front frame member (behind drivers side headlamp). Rotate coolant overflow bottle bracket 180-deg. and install (you will have some left over bolts...keep them for something else). Fabricate shield from plastic or sheet metal to keep hot air from rad away from cone filter. Cost --> $100 canadian for K&N filter and tube.
This is where I went in the wrong direction...
(I didn't) Spend the rest on rims and tires. You get show, but you get excellent go. Traction, Cornering and Braking(factory tires are hockey pucks!). Get 16" with Toyo Proxies or Yokohamas, don't go overboard!
Then when you get the next $1000, get exhaust! full-flowing, not just a header or catback or fart muffler (I went wrong here too!) My exhaust flows great from the firewall back that's it...I didn't know about the out-pipe from the cat!
This makes a good base for basically any other mods...cams, springs, brakes!
Last edited by RebelRacing; May-20th-2002 at 08:03 PM.
#18
do a search on intake sizes... lets see what rants of jesse's you can find. as for lowering for performance only.. i agree. why lower it for looks? that's what all the good rice mods are for like tail lights, clear corners, etc. ;D lowering for looks imho is stupid.
#19
Originally posted by protetype
do a search on intake sizes... lets see what rants of jesse's you can find. as for lowering for performance only.. i agree. why lower it for looks? that's what all the good rice mods are for like tail lights, clear corners, etc. ;D lowering for looks imho is stupid.
do a search on intake sizes... lets see what rants of jesse's you can find. as for lowering for performance only.. i agree. why lower it for looks? that's what all the good rice mods are for like tail lights, clear corners, etc. ;D lowering for looks imho is stupid.
#20
ok.. 1.3" drop. that's not exactly a huge difference in looks there bud. i was running the stock wheels with hub caps. yes.. for performance. if i wanted looks, i wouldve saved myself the $400 total, for the springs and installation and just cut the ******* springs if i wanted looks. everyone whines about the h&r's and how there's mad wheel gap still. research my posts pal, and see that i disagree about the wheel gap. how am i into looks over performance?
#21
ok I have cut spring and the only reason i did it at first was to be one of the first 3rd gen Proteges in oregon with a big drop and also there was nobody out there made coilovers that i know of at the time..... because oregon suck for shops and everyone over here mostly has a hondas like me
#22
Originally posted by protetype
ok.. 1.3" drop. that's not exactly a huge difference in looks there bud. i was running the stock wheels with hub caps. yes.. for performance. if i wanted looks, i wouldve saved myself the $400 total, for the springs and installation and just cut the ******* springs if i wanted looks. everyone whines about the h&r's and how there's mad wheel gap still. research my posts pal, and see that i disagree about the wheel gap. how am i into looks over performance?
ok.. 1.3" drop. that's not exactly a huge difference in looks there bud. i was running the stock wheels with hub caps. yes.. for performance. if i wanted looks, i wouldve saved myself the $400 total, for the springs and installation and just cut the ******* springs if i wanted looks. everyone whines about the h&r's and how there's mad wheel gap still. research my posts pal, and see that i disagree about the wheel gap. how am i into looks over performance?
PS. Im neither your BUD or pal
#23
i agree with the people who say n/a but for a grand you want the cheap speed of nitrous, if you had alot more money then you can build up your car with some cams, pistons, springs, street slicks, turbos or whatevers out there for our cars, if i were you i would make my own 2.25" exhaust, get a cold air intake and a fifty shot of nitrous, that will let you burn the rice thats everywhere now-a-days. . . but as rjakobs said, thats my own $.02 and i dont know anything about cars
#24
Nothing wrong with lowering for looks. I never thought that lowering makes your car look that much better, but it's crucial if you got bigger rims then stock.
Same thing with wheels.... you get nice wheels that will give you better handling (wider tires), but you also care what they look like.
Same thing with wheels.... you get nice wheels that will give you better handling (wider tires), but you also care what they look like.
#25
oh come on people....if you lower your car, and do it PROPERLY...as in with parts that were MENT to accomplish this...you are not only getting the looks...but you ARE getting a better handling car....so the end result is two fold, whether or not you USE the new handling upgrade or not. The same goes for putting 17's, or 18's on your car....AND performance tires. NOT everyone takes their car out and pushs it through corners, or autoX's, or drag races......its all personal choices and how we want our rides to look/perform.
#26
Back to the Original Question...
After dumpung over $3000 dollars into my car, I have some suggestions.
If you are intersted in improving the looks and handling, lowering the car should be your first priority. If you get bigger wheels and tires, the wheel gap becomes more obvious without lowering. If you do lower it, I suggest that you buy the shocks as well so you can install thicker sway bars later.
If you want better acceleration first, an Injen CAI followed by new cams would be a good decision. Although I don't have cams yet, they are going in sometime after I install the MP3 sway bars.
If you are intersted in improving the looks and handling, lowering the car should be your first priority. If you get bigger wheels and tires, the wheel gap becomes more obvious without lowering. If you do lower it, I suggest that you buy the shocks as well so you can install thicker sway bars later.
If you want better acceleration first, an Injen CAI followed by new cams would be a good decision. Although I don't have cams yet, they are going in sometime after I install the MP3 sway bars.
#27
Originally posted by Sir Nuke
oh come on people....if you lower your car, and do it PROPERLY...as in with parts that were MENT to accomplish this...you are not only getting the looks...but you ARE getting a better handling car....so the end result is two fold, whether or not you USE the new handling upgrade or not. The same goes for putting 17's, or 18's on your car....AND performance tires. NOT everyone takes their car out and pushs it through corners, or autoX's, or drag races......its all personal choices and how we want our rides to look/perform.
oh come on people....if you lower your car, and do it PROPERLY...as in with parts that were MENT to accomplish this...you are not only getting the looks...but you ARE getting a better handling car....so the end result is two fold, whether or not you USE the new handling upgrade or not. The same goes for putting 17's, or 18's on your car....AND performance tires. NOT everyone takes their car out and pushs it through corners, or autoX's, or drag races......its all personal choices and how we want our rides to look/perform.
#28
Originally posted by 1fatEs
ok I have cut spring and the only reason i did it at first was to be one of the first 3rd gen Proteges in oregon with a big drop and also there was nobody out there made coilovers that i know of at the time..... because oregon suck for shops and everyone over here mostly has a hondas like me
ok I have cut spring and the only reason i did it at first was to be one of the first 3rd gen Proteges in oregon with a big drop and also there was nobody out there made coilovers that i know of at the time..... because oregon suck for shops and everyone over here mostly has a hondas like me
You attempting to be a ricer or what?
Seriously...you would not believe the difference in proper springs on a lowered care...your car would be much better off lowered correctly
#29
to tell you the truth I have been in lots of cars with springs and coilovers and to tell you what my car rides just as good and takes corners just as good..........but anyways im going to get skunk2 coilovers as soon as i get the money.....all the stuff i have on my car now is just stuff i've had or my friends had just sitting around but coilovers and a lot more stuff is going to be next because i have a job now
(haven't had a job the hole time i've had the car and look how much i did)
(haven't had a job the hole time i've had the car and look how much i did)
#30
flywheels anyone
i don't think i've heard anyone improving acceleration, i would first get a lighter flywheel and a heavier duty clutch first, then i would go with exhaust, wait for the turbo, cause the cold air intake you possibly would have to wait for depending on the turbo (am i right). get better strut package, lower the car, but of course the first thing i did was change tires. but definetly next i'm changin the fly wheel
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3rd Gen Protege/MazdaSpeed/P5/MP3
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July-24th-2002 11:35 AM
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