Woot! 90K Service/Mid Life Improvement
March-10th-2006, 12:24 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 999
Woot! 90K Service/Mid Life Improvement
Muh babee is on the eve of 90K miles - so i am doing alot of work soon. This is what i have planned - give me any input you might have:
I will replace:
replace Exh manifold w/ Wagner header
replace crank pulley w/ UD pulley
replace accy belts
replace timing belt
replace waterpump
remove VTCS
clean EGR valve
replace motor mounts (all) (70 durometer)
install thermoblok kit for the manifold and TB
oil change
remove and inspect the 1st cat
install MIL eliminator
re-torque the VICS screws with Red Loctite
replace transaxle fluid with GM Synchromesh
In this order:
Soak all exhaust bolts and EGR fitttings with PB Blaster
remove bat negative cable
Remove accy belts
Remove crank pulley w/ electric impact wrench
remove timing cover
drain radiator/engine
remove water pump? or replace timing belt first?
install timing cover
install new UD pulley
install new accy belts
Jack car
remove SRI & maf
remove EGR/soak in PB Blaster/clean
remove TB
remove/set aside injectors/assy
remove top half of Intake Manifold (IM)
remove bottom bracket on IM
remove bottom half IM
fix VICS screws
remove VTCS/plug holes
remove all engine mounts (easy to get/do rear now, yes?)
install thermoblok gaskets
install IM
install TB
install EGR valve
rig throttle to new position because of the moved TB position(How?)
remove exh manifold and first cat (or should i do this earlier to gain access to the rear mount?)
re-install first cat after inspection
install wagner header
installl MIL eliminator
install EGR pipe
reservice radiator
change oil/filter
down jack
reconnect bat terminal
pray. hard.
fire 'er up!
I will replace:
replace Exh manifold w/ Wagner header
replace crank pulley w/ UD pulley
replace accy belts
replace timing belt
replace waterpump
remove VTCS
clean EGR valve
replace motor mounts (all) (70 durometer)
install thermoblok kit for the manifold and TB
oil change
remove and inspect the 1st cat
install MIL eliminator
re-torque the VICS screws with Red Loctite
replace transaxle fluid with GM Synchromesh
In this order:
Soak all exhaust bolts and EGR fitttings with PB Blaster
remove bat negative cable
Remove accy belts
Remove crank pulley w/ electric impact wrench
remove timing cover
drain radiator/engine
remove water pump? or replace timing belt first?
install timing cover
install new UD pulley
install new accy belts
Jack car
remove SRI & maf
remove EGR/soak in PB Blaster/clean
remove TB
remove/set aside injectors/assy
remove top half of Intake Manifold (IM)
remove bottom bracket on IM
remove bottom half IM
fix VICS screws
remove VTCS/plug holes
remove all engine mounts (easy to get/do rear now, yes?)
install thermoblok gaskets
install IM
install TB
install EGR valve
rig throttle to new position because of the moved TB position(How?)
remove exh manifold and first cat (or should i do this earlier to gain access to the rear mount?)
re-install first cat after inspection
install wagner header
installl MIL eliminator
install EGR pipe
reservice radiator
change oil/filter
down jack
reconnect bat terminal
pray. hard.
fire 'er up!
March-10th-2006, 03:10 PM
#2
The man behind the mask
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 11,572
some key things I saw that caught my eye about this...
1. Why do you need a MIL eliminator if you're maintaing the pre-cat? You should only need one if you remove the first cat.
2. Why install a TB spacer? Why not just disconnect the coolant-in and coolant-out lines together and bypass the TB all together? That would be more effective.
3. The front motor mount can be installed without removing ANYTHING. The rear mount is MUCH easier if you have the intake manifold off the car. The front and side mounts can be done in under 15 minutes for all 3.
4. You have to remove the timing belt to get the water pump off. So plan on just doing the water pump but when you go to re-install everything add the new timing belt at that time. Also, this would be a PERFECT time to install j-spec cams if you have them.
1. Why do you need a MIL eliminator if you're maintaing the pre-cat? You should only need one if you remove the first cat.
2. Why install a TB spacer? Why not just disconnect the coolant-in and coolant-out lines together and bypass the TB all together? That would be more effective.
3. The front motor mount can be installed without removing ANYTHING. The rear mount is MUCH easier if you have the intake manifold off the car. The front and side mounts can be done in under 15 minutes for all 3.
4. You have to remove the timing belt to get the water pump off. So plan on just doing the water pump but when you go to re-install everything add the new timing belt at that time. Also, this would be a PERFECT time to install j-spec cams if you have them.
March-10th-2006, 11:09 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Clearwater,FL-Countryside
Posts: 220
He said he would be using GM syncromesh. Sounds like a manual transmission, unless there's something about the p5 auto I don't know.
Also, regarding your order of operations, I would put the oil/filter before reservice radiator, as you'll need to run the engine to properly bleed the cooling system.
Also, regarding your order of operations, I would put the oil/filter before reservice radiator, as you'll need to run the engine to properly bleed the cooling system.
Last edited by pass the peas; March-10th-2006 at 11:13 PM.
March-22nd-2006, 07:29 AM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 999
Good info all - thanks!
Yep - manual tranny.
New tires - woot!
Rod'-
I already did the throttlebody coolant bypass (it was the only 'easy' thing to do in the kit. Now i will do the rest of the kit (already bought it - might as well...))
Thanks ken!
Yep - manual tranny.
New tires - woot!
Rod'-
I already did the throttlebody coolant bypass (it was the only 'easy' thing to do in the kit. Now i will do the rest of the kit (already bought it - might as well...))
Thanks ken!
April-4th-2006, 07:15 PM
#15
The man behind the mask
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 11,572
coolant bypassing or spacing to keep the supposedly hot coolant from affecting the charge temps.
I'd love for before and after dynos on those products because I think people would really see how little of a gain (or not) you'd get.
I'd love for before and after dynos on those products because I think people would really see how little of a gain (or not) you'd get.