Muh babee is on the eve of 90K miles - so i am doing alot of work soon. This is what i have planned - give me any input you might have:

I will replace:
replace Exh manifold w/ Wagner header
replace crank pulley w/ UD pulley
replace accy belts
replace timing belt
replace waterpump
remove VTCS
clean EGR valve
replace motor mounts (all) (70 durometer)
install thermoblok kit for the manifold and TB
oil change
remove and inspect the 1st cat
install MIL eliminator
re-torque the VICS screws with Red Loctite
replace transaxle fluid with GM Synchromesh



In this order:
Soak all exhaust bolts and EGR fitttings with PB Blaster
remove bat negative cable
Remove accy belts
Remove crank pulley w/ electric impact wrench
remove timing cover
drain radiator/engine
remove water pump? or replace timing belt first?
install timing cover
install new UD pulley
install new accy belts

Jack car
remove SRI & maf
remove EGR/soak in PB Blaster/clean
remove TB
remove/set aside injectors/assy
remove top half of Intake Manifold (IM)
remove bottom bracket on IM
remove bottom half IM
fix VICS screws
remove VTCS/plug holes


remove all engine mounts (easy to get/do rear now, yes?)

install thermoblok gaskets
install IM
install TB
install EGR valve
rig throttle to new position because of the moved TB position(How?)

remove exh manifold and first cat (or should i do this earlier to gain access to the rear mount?)
re-install first cat after inspection

install wagner header
installl MIL eliminator
install EGR pipe

reservice radiator
change oil/filter

down jack
reconnect bat terminal

pray. hard.

fire 'er up!

 

some key things I saw that caught my eye about this...

1. Why do you need a MIL eliminator if you're maintaing the pre-cat? You should only need one if you remove the first cat.

2. Why install a TB spacer? Why not just disconnect the coolant-in and coolant-out lines together and bypass the TB all together? That would be more effective.

3. The front motor mount can be installed without removing ANYTHING. The rear mount is MUCH easier if you have the intake manifold off the car. The front and side mounts can be done in under 15 minutes for all 3.

4. You have to remove the timing belt to get the water pump off. So plan on just doing the water pump but when you go to re-install everything add the new timing belt at that time. Also, this would be a PERFECT time to install j-spec cams if you have them.

 

PM sent back on parts list. let me know if you need anything else.

 

I know you may not want to "outsource " any of this but I will suggest a tranny flush. A drain and re-fill does not get the fluid in the torque converter.

 

^^ werd on that. Replace all fluids and filters and re-check the tread and pressure in your tires.

 

He said he would be using GM syncromesh. Sounds like a manual transmission, unless there's something about the p5 auto I don't know.
Also, regarding your order of operations, I would put the oil/filter before reservice radiator, as you'll need to run the engine to properly bleed the cooling system.

 

Good info all - thanks!
Yep - manual tranny.
New tires - woot!

Rod'-
I already did the throttlebody coolant bypass (it was the only 'easy' thing to do in the kit. Now i will do the rest of the kit (already bought it - might as well...))

Thanks ken!

 

Wow...90k miles...impressive!

 

^Hey! I drive mine! It is my favOrite vehicle (uh, only vehicle...

 

LOL Oh yeah...that's it Mine has ~37k or so on it.

 

parts are boxed up and on the way, let me know when you get them!

 

I recieved one box - but i didn't peak inside yet...

 

Ken-
PM sent.

Thanks.

 

what is the thermoblock kit for?

 

coolant bypassing or spacing to keep the supposedly hot coolant from affecting the charge temps.

I'd love for before and after dynos on those products because I think people would really see how little of a gain (or not) you'd get.