3rd gen Engine/Drivetrain Engine/Drivetrain Modification Discussions for 1999-2003 Models Only (BJ chassis)

So this guy asks me...

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Old October-13th-2005, 12:48 PM
  #16  
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thats 3 votes for Hiboost (mine counts as two)...hahaha
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Old October-13th-2005, 01:26 PM
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Well I could walk down to the Wagner shop, and I'm going to. The 2.0L is becoming less of a possibility in my mind. Fabricating an oil pan isn't simple, I know people who have and could potentially do this. Even with the entire guts of the motor strengthened in every way the cost would come in around $2,000 for the parts. In my mind this is too much money to spend without considering the valvetrain. I would say that the power produced at this point is still not worth the expense.

My concern now is the claim of the 1.6L motor being stronger. Is the ZM really a B6?
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Old October-13th-2005, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Smoke
My concern now is the claim of the 1.6L motor being stronger. Is the ZM really a B6?
It's hardly a claim...it's mathematics...shorter rod = stronger rod

The Z series is an evolution of the B6

If you don't believe the ZM is stronger, do a search under 1.6L turbo

biknman was the pioneer on this and he was running over 285 wheel horsepower ,reliably, before he decided he should do an internals upgrade

goldpro is currently running 185 wheel horsepower and 224 lb-ft of torque on stock internals
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Old October-13th-2005, 02:03 PM
  #19  
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1.6L > all other protege engines.
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Old October-13th-2005, 02:05 PM
  #20  
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maybe i should swap one into my speed.... :0
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Old October-13th-2005, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Roddimus Prime
1.6L > all other USDM 3rd gen protege engines.
I fixed it for ya !
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Old October-13th-2005, 02:49 PM
  #22  
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i dunno, I wouldn't even want the j-spec fs-ze....for the money and potential to be fast for so cheap the US 1.6L takes the cake in my book.
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Old October-13th-2005, 03:12 PM
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I think so too...

I just didnt want anyone jumping on me saying the ZL-VE 1.5L is better....it makes more power stock and has a bit stronger rods...

this would be more costly though
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Old October-13th-2005, 03:44 PM
  #24  
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more costly and less displacement to spool whatever turbo you'd chose to go with it!
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Old October-13th-2005, 04:26 PM
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MIght even spool eariler just because the increased volemetric efficency with the s-vt.
Besides if the zl is turboed you might have more fun off boost, again just because of the s-vt.

Although it is more costly.
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Old October-13th-2005, 05:34 PM
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personally I'd love to have a turbo'd zl-ve......23 more hp stock tells me it's moving more air, so it'd spool a turbo quicker

plus an even STRONGER bottom end.....

but I just couldnt afford it................
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Old October-14th-2005, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by macdaddyslomo
It's hardly a claim...it's mathematics...shorter rod = stronger rod

The Z series is an evolution of the B6

If you don't believe the ZM is stronger, do a search under 1.6L turbo

biknman was the pioneer on this and he was running over 285 wheel horsepower ,reliably, before he decided he should do an internals upgrade

goldpro is currently running 185 wheel horsepower and 224 lb-ft of torque on stock internals
that was just what i ran it on the dyno, i made that power at 12 psi, i had the boost upto 15 psi when i destroyed my clutch, lol also note i have over 100k miles on my engine, so my car should be a good example of just how strong these engines are.
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Old October-19th-2005, 09:05 AM
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Exclamation

Originally Posted by Roddimus Prime
I know the sunbelt engines are used in tripoint cars and make 250-ish whp. They last only a few races and cost a fortune. So is the life of a NA build.

I personally have built my share of FI systems and a sub-$1K turbo kit would NEVER go on one of my cars that I cared about. If you're worried about the cost then an NA swap is NOT the way to go. The FS-DE engines have a LOT of problems with them.

1. WEAK rods....super weak. I farted on a downshift once and bent one.

2. aftermarket rods/pistons cost a fortune. These aren't hondas.

3. the ECU is total junk. Full standalone is the ONLY way to get decent power out of serious NA build. For FI cars it's not as much of an issue.

4. finding aftermarket cams will be impossible as none exsist. You could purchase new billits from mazdaspeed of japan and do all of your math yourself and have them ground but expect to pay about $500 for the cams and labor.

5. Cam gears are VERY expensive. I think they are $350-400. The exhaust gear is the pricey one as the fs-de ecu requires a 3 magnetic pick-up instead of a standard 1 pick-up.

6. the head flows for crap....even ported/polished/honed...it's a bad head. If you were to design an all aluminum DOHC head with oversized valve ports and something similar to a honda K20 or Toyota 1.8L you'd have something on your hands. but again...$$$$$

7. Oil pan design. The oil pan is un-baffled and numerous proteges have met their end taking turns (which is ironically what they do best). The oil sloshes away from the pick up and WHAM, engine gone. I know of several people PERSONALLY that it's happened to.

I personally worry about the oil issue. Does anyone make a baffled pan or do-it-yourself baffles?
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Old October-19th-2005, 09:17 AM
  #29  
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nope...you're S.O.L.
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Old October-20th-2005, 12:45 AM
  #30  
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Could someone explain how the ZM is an evolution of the B6. I was trying to explain to the owner what his options were and point out the plusses and minuses of different engines and engine management systems. Having an friends with an assortment of MX and RX vehicles made this much easier. To my understanding the switch to an S-VT head is the biggest "evolution". Is there something I don't know that a few of you could enlighten me with?
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