Sir Nuke

20W-50....I still think that is way to heavy an oil....that is what I use in my HARLEY...and its AIR COOLED and needs the thicker oil for the temp it runs.....

I only put the 10W-30 in the P-5...and I live in Texas...and it gets PLENTY hot here....and its still within the limits of the oil.

5 Guardian

like i said when the engine blew i was on 5W30

njaremka

still, if you had used 20w50 in the engine prior, it could have caused some premature wear to occur that would cause the 5w30 to not circulate properly. i still can't belive you would even consider using 20w50 in any conditions!

5 Guardian

20W50 isint that thick and either way when the engine get to it normal temperature the higher wiscosity is just good for it!


20W50

the 20 is the grade of viscosity and thickness @ 0 degres celcius

50 is the grade of viscosity @ normal temperature

the higher the viscosity the better lubrification

( do you guys think that while the engine get hotter the oil get thicker??? )

Sir Nuke

our point exactly....at NOT (normal operating temperature) the oil acts as 50 wt.......which is THICKER than 30 wt.....which is what the manual calls for.....even here in "hotter than hell texas".

remember...the TEMPERATURE you are looking at on your dash is NOT your oil temperature gage...its your WATER temperature gage.....your water temp can be the same and your oil temp a lot hotter.....or cooler.....the two are mutually exclusive. true, one CAN effect the other....but are not directly proportional.

njaremka

whatever, your car.

Ronin

Yea, I think that 20W50 is what did your engine in. I know you were not using it at the time it blew, but how long were you using 20w50 for before that (how many kms) ?

Was 20w50something you decided yourself to use or somebody else told you to do? If Mazda found that oil in your engine, they would definitely void your warranty right then and there.

And even though these engines are made to rev high, I think shifting at 6000 on EACH and EVERY shift is a bit tough on the engine... and especially so with oil that thick.

hihoslva

Hey - I think this guy is in the "Why Read My Manual and Follow It I Always Know Better Than Real Engineers Anyway" club.

Why anyone would put 20w50 in their Pro is beyond me.

Sorry man - not to flame, but you did this to yourself. If your engine "threw a rod" - that means you broke a piston rod. Let's backtrack a little bit:

Most common reason for throwing a rod (other than running past redline for an extended period of time): - excess resistance due to lack of lubrication, usually in the cylinder. Hmmmmmmm......

Reason for lack of lubrication: 1. Thermal breakdown, usually due to VERY long oil-change interval. 2. Lack of oil reaching the critical engine component. Hmmmmm.......

Reason for lack of oil: 1. No oil in crankcase. 2. Improper oil circualtion. Hmmmm.....

Reason for improper circulation: 2. Clogged passageways due to particles in oil. 3. Oil weight/viscosity not of proper qualities to flow thorugh said passageways. 4. Oil weight/viscosity not of proper qualities to allow oil pump to function efficiently & properly. Hmmmmm.....

Seems like all roads lead back to your 20w50. Good luck.

Oh, and WHY did you use the 20w50? Did you explain this yet?

mito7878

He's prolly to embarASSed to say because he knows he did wrong. I agree. READ THE MANUAL and if it aint broke the dont fix it.

5 Guardian

no im not too embarassed to answer the topic ( i just aint on the computer 24/7 )

anyways i used 20W50 after my second oil change ( @ 9600 kms ) i do my oil change at every 5000 kms

if i decided to used 20W50 it's because of it's high degree of viscosity at normal temperature ( 50 )

and i didint wanna use sinthetic 5W50 oil inside since when i was doing oild change every 2 weeks ( because of my job ) get's kinda expensive... and my car HAVE NOT been shifted at 6000rpm EVERYTIME come on use your brain... but i never exeded 6000rpm

and as for the cold starts ( man check your car i NEVER had any problems cranking it during summer ) and waht made me change my mind on putting 5W30 ( it's because winter came DUH! )

btw... the diagnostic on my car has been given to me ( there as been @ least 5 other cases of the rod #4 breaking or starting to knock ) this is caused of the oil pan being not built properly in comparisson of the FS-ZE the rod ( bearing ) of the piston #4 is missing oil or have difficulty getting enough lubrification because there is NOT enough oil in the pick-up compartment

like i said my car started to knock @ 44998kms and died @ 45043kms

EVERY other blow outs ( the 5 other @ least ) happened AFTER 40K and BEFORE 50K and happened only on the FS-DE engine

I'm not trying to pretend that i'm an angel with my car. It might had been pushed a little.. but there not way an engine should FALL APPART after 45K. No way at all.

hihoslva

Unless you just do the wrong things. I have to wonder about the other cases in which this happened - what did these people do? I'm not saying that there is no possibility of factory defect in your engine, or the others. However, running such heavy-weight oil is simply a bad idea. Whether it alone caused your problem, we may never know. But we can say with ABSOLUTE certainty that it did not help.

5 Guardian

yeah maybe it didint help... but...


as the the 4 other people from what i heard they did nothing wrong there is one or 2 guy from toronto that happened to... he's a father of 2 around 35yo or so always made his oil change BY mazda and he's not the kind of guy to drive his p5 like i do.

but it happened to him anyways...

like the guy from mazda said to me when i called him it's the pick-up compartment in the oil pan that his not constructed properly compared to it's cousin the FS-ZE ( wich is turbo and AWD ) and what he told me is that the bearing of the piston #4 often misses oil at over 5000rpm or like he said it may just be that the bearing is defect or something else there is a lot that can be wrong in a mechanical engine.

hihoslva

Not that 3000 mile oil changes are bad by any means, but the manual recommends 5000 miles for the 2.0L engines. Sorry - I'm just being a ***** for the details.....

I still go right around 3 grand, just to be on the safer side.

fencepost

Interesting note: I was getting my first change today at 3500 (will switch to every 5k when I hit 10000), and was hearing some interesting things about the Tribute.

Apparently they not only recommend a 5000 mile interval, they say that you should not do anything smaller - they used a different metal for the rings, and they want some of the buildup. The service guy's comment was that if you changed it every 3000 in that engine, you were going to be putting a new engine in eventually. He was also a bit irritated at one of the other dealers in the area, which apparently hadn't been telling people - these folks got service customers with the other dealership's plate holders who'd never heard of this. I suspect that means Tribute owners also shouldn't be running synthetics, though the service guy wasn't as sure about that.

Anyway, switched to Mobil 1 10w30 and got the tires rotated (3750 miles? What were they smoking?), it felt smoother just driving out of the lot.

Got my first scratch too , looks like someone was carrying something heavy past it and grazed the front fender. Time to point out to Mazda that they sent me the wrong person's welcome kit and that the touchup paint would be a lot more useful to me than a Tribute quick reference guide.