OBX Headers hp Claims
March-30th-2003, 09:03 PM
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 1,122
WTF? The database put my last post in FRONT of the message I was replying to. 
Repost...
No, it's not. The bore, bore spacing and cylinder head are the same. The timing belt for the FP-DE has an "FS"-prefix part number! The only reason I can think of that would affect the fitment of a header between the two engines is different EGR piping and/or O2 sensors, but both issues are easy to resolve.
(NOTE: I'm not saying that they ARE different, I'm just talking hypothetically here.)
I'm not sure about the rods being stronger, but you are correct on this one- the rods and crank are different due to the FP's shorter stroke, and the pistons are different too, probably to keep the c/r the same.
Repost...
Originally posted by chdesign
Its a little more complicated than just different "inside". The block on the FP-DE is actually shorter than the block on teh FS-DE along with the timing belt.
Its a little more complicated than just different "inside". The block on the FP-DE is actually shorter than the block on teh FS-DE along with the timing belt.
(NOTE: I'm not saying that they ARE different, I'm just talking hypothetically here.)
Originally posted by chdesign
The rods, pistons and crank are all different too form the FS-DE and oh yeah the FP-DE has alot better rod ratio and the rods are alot beefer in the FP-DE as well.
The rods, pistons and crank are all different too form the FS-DE and oh yeah the FP-DE has alot better rod ratio and the rods are alot beefer in the FP-DE as well.
March-30th-2003, 09:12 PM
#17
Protege Anarchist
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 708
uhh no.. the block is physically different and so is the timing belt
the OEM timing belt part # for the FP is FP01-12-205A
the block part # of the FP itself is FP01-10-300M
the OEM timng belt part # for the FS is FS01-12-205A or FS02-12-205
the part numbers for just the head itself are different between the FP and the FS and so are the cams
SO THERE!
the OEM timing belt part # for the FP is FP01-12-205A
the block part # of the FP itself is FP01-10-300M
the OEM timng belt part # for the FS is FS01-12-205A or FS02-12-205
the part numbers for just the head itself are different between the FP and the FS and so are the cams
SO THERE!
March-30th-2003, 09:18 PM
#19
Protege Anarchist
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 708
regardless of whether there are 2 cats or not, there will be a MIL. A "MIL eliminator"/O2 sensor "simulator" will fix the problem. There is an O2 sensor before the close coupled cat and one after... on the cars with the 2nd cat, there are no O2 sensors before or after it... the O2 sensor locations will just be the same as the single cat cars
Originally posted by protetype
yeah... i'm good at stealing fame. anyway... so i'm curious now since i've been wondering about the obx header for a while. since some of the protege's don't have a secondary cat, this would automatically cause a CEL since it eliminates the primary, and there is no secondary even though the o2 sensor will still be mounted essentially in the same spot, and there is no second sensor. this would be the only reason i wouldnt get these... anyone wanna take a shot at this one, and tell me if this what would happen.
yeah... i'm good at stealing fame. anyway... so i'm curious now since i've been wondering about the obx header for a while. since some of the protege's don't have a secondary cat, this would automatically cause a CEL since it eliminates the primary, and there is no secondary even though the o2 sensor will still be mounted essentially in the same spot, and there is no second sensor. this would be the only reason i wouldnt get these... anyone wanna take a shot at this one, and tell me if this what would happen.
March-30th-2003, 11:19 PM
#20
Use this to install stuff
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: State College, PA
Posts: 1,069
Originally posted by TheMAN
regardless of whether there are 2 cats or not, there will be a MIL. A "MIL eliminator"/O2 sensor "simulator" will fix the problem.
regardless of whether there are 2 cats or not, there will be a MIL. A "MIL eliminator"/O2 sensor "simulator" will fix the problem.
March-31st-2003, 12:59 AM
#21
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 67
Originally posted by TheMAN
uhh no.. the block is physically different and so is the timing belt
the OEM timing belt part # for the FP is FP01-12-205A
the block part # of the FP itself is FP01-10-300M
the OEM timng belt part # for the FS is FS01-12-205A or FS02-12-205
the part numbers for just the head itself are different between the FP and the FS and so are the cams
SO THERE!
uhh no.. the block is physically different and so is the timing belt
the OEM timing belt part # for the FP is FP01-12-205A
the block part # of the FP itself is FP01-10-300M
the OEM timng belt part # for the FS is FS01-12-205A or FS02-12-205
the part numbers for just the head itself are different between the FP and the FS and so are the cams
SO THERE!
March-31st-2003, 03:39 AM
#23
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Centennial, Colorado
Posts: 1,667
Originally posted by Maxx Mazda
Good info on the headers! Glad someone put them all in one place!
Hey Mike, have you put your rims back on yet, or are you still feelin' winter?
Good info on the headers! Glad someone put them all in one place!
Hey Mike, have you put your rims back on yet, or are you still feelin' winter?
anyway... now that we've established that an o2 simulator is neccessary for this header to not throw a cel... what are our options for the 1.6? i see the one that MackDaddy posted, but says it's for a 2.5RS. I'm not sure about this ****, so i'm curious as to whether that would work for us, or do we need a specific application for us? this is the next thing i'm going to do, and i'm willing to be the guinea pig for this if no one else has done it yet for the 1.6. i just need to know what the deal is with what i need to make it work. i'll be going with the ceramic though.. not the ss.
March-31st-2003, 05:20 AM
#24
Who's your Daddy?
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Westerville, Ohio USA
Posts: 390
Originally posted by protetype
still feelin winter considering we just got four feet of snow last week, lol. it's kind of melted now. ;D that, and my tires are worn to cord, and metal in some places. new rubbers are a must.
anyway... now that we've established that an o2 simulator is neccessary for this header to not throw a cel... what are our options for the 1.6? i see the one that MackDaddy posted, but says it's for a 2.5RS. I'm not sure about this ****, so i'm curious as to whether that would work for us, or do we need a specific application for us? this is the next thing i'm going to do, and i'm willing to be the guinea pig for this if no one else has done it yet for the 1.6. i just need to know what the deal is with what i need to make it work. i'll be going with the ceramic though.. not the ss.
still feelin winter considering we just got four feet of snow last week, lol. it's kind of melted now. ;D that, and my tires are worn to cord, and metal in some places. new rubbers are a must.
anyway... now that we've established that an o2 simulator is neccessary for this header to not throw a cel... what are our options for the 1.6? i see the one that MackDaddy posted, but says it's for a 2.5RS. I'm not sure about this ****, so i'm curious as to whether that would work for us, or do we need a specific application for us? this is the next thing i'm going to do, and i'm willing to be the guinea pig for this if no one else has done it yet for the 1.6. i just need to know what the deal is with what i need to make it work. i'll be going with the ceramic though.. not the ss.
Last edited by MackDaddy; March-31st-2003 at 09:03 AM.
March-31st-2003, 08:07 AM
#26
Protege Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Windsor, Nova Scotia Canada
Posts: 174
Help help and more help
I've read all the posts about headers on this forum and others..
Can someone confirm this for me?
1. I buy a header... say the OBX H2020 header for ~300US.
2. I bolt it to my car.
3. I then need to either reposition the second O2 sensor or trick the ECU into thinking it's still there with another piece of hardware.
3a. Failure to do so will result in a check engine light.
4. I gain some horsepower.
Is this ensentially correct? The reson I ask is that header threads float around the internet and yet I don't see many people with them on their cars. Is it a question of being expensive or of being hard to do?
Thanks,
David
Can someone confirm this for me?
1. I buy a header... say the OBX H2020 header for ~300US.
2. I bolt it to my car.
3. I then need to either reposition the second O2 sensor or trick the ECU into thinking it's still there with another piece of hardware.
3a. Failure to do so will result in a check engine light.
4. I gain some horsepower.
Is this ensentially correct? The reson I ask is that header threads float around the internet and yet I don't see many people with them on their cars. Is it a question of being expensive or of being hard to do?
Thanks,
David
March-31st-2003, 09:11 AM
#27
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 1,122
Originally posted by TheMAN
uhh no.. the block is physically different and so is the timing belt
the part numbers for just the head itself are different between the FP and the FS and so are the cams
SO THERE!
uhh no.. the block is physically different and so is the timing belt
the part numbers for just the head itself are different between the FP and the FS and so are the cams
SO THERE!
Oh well, guess I gotta eat them sometimes. 
March-31st-2003, 09:48 AM
#28
Super Ninja
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Goldsboro NC
Posts: 413
even if you trick the o2 sensors into thinking that there is a cat there your car may run worse just cause of the fact that its going to not be getting the right fuel air mix. becuase of no reading from the o2. Is that right?? And i also thought that the first cat was to be a very high flowing cat. the diameter is like three or more inches across. I was thinking shorty myself. at least that will still get rid of the log manafold and still open some HP keeping the first cat.
March-31st-2003, 10:18 AM
#29
Protege Anarchist
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 708
no it fits.... the ports on both sides of the head as well as the flanges are the exact same size.... they even share the same gaskets... it's just that there are minor differences between the actual head and block itself
Originally posted by 99protege
so, does this mean the obx 2.0L header will or will not fit the 1.8?
so, does this mean the obx 2.0L header will or will not fit the 1.8?
April-1st-2003, 01:08 AM
#30
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Centennial, Colorado
Posts: 1,667
Originally posted by MackDaddy
The MIL eliminator I listed should work o.k. for us seeing as how we use the same 4-wire narrow band o2 as my WRX had in the second spot....
The MIL eliminator I listed should work o.k. for us seeing as how we use the same 4-wire narrow band o2 as my WRX had in the second spot....
